Problems, Are You guys using a different batt. for rear relocation UPDATE!!
04-15-2011, 03:20 PM
#41
I've posted all that tried to get the **** to work with the battery in the back. I had several other people check it and posted here several times with no luck.
Good luck OP hopefully you will find an answer.
04-15-2011, 03:24 PM
#42
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He last posted what he checked and mentioned he thinks it's his starter. I explained to him that I doubt it's his starter and to try his stock cables again with a battery up front. If it clicks again then ok maybe it's his starter but I highly doubt it.
I've posted all that tried to get the **** to work with the battery in the back. I had several other people check it and posted here several times with no luck.
Good luck OP hopefully you will find an answer.
I've posted all that tried to get the **** to work with the battery in the back. I had several other people check it and posted here several times with no luck.
Good luck OP hopefully you will find an answer.
04-15-2011, 04:33 PM
#43
Dopefed,,,,Thanks for all the advice, with my stock cables the car starts fine, No trouble...I take my stock battery cable off, and put my 1/0 on and clickity click then start. My voltage drop test shows that with the cable I am losing roughly 2-3 tenths of a volt, I dont see why that would cause a problem, unless the resistance in my starter motor was right on the edge, thats why I was suspecting my starter, I guess Ill have to keep the thing up here,,I could try a light battery but from what I am reading, they just dont last on a car with alot of acc. and such, and if you kill it once its dead, and you have to buy another one. I guess Ill keep trying. Thanks for your help with this, You and Broke EF have showed it doesnt just work for every car...
04-15-2011, 08:32 PM
#44
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Dopefed,,,,Thanks for all the advice, with my stock cables the car starts fine, No trouble...I take my stock battery cable off, and put my 1/0 on and clickity click then start. My voltage drop test shows that with the cable I am losing roughly 2-3 tenths of a volt, I dont see why that would cause a problem, unless the resistance in my starter motor was right on the edge, thats why I was suspecting my starter, I guess Ill have to keep the thing up here,,I could try a light battery but from what I am reading, they just dont last on a car with alot of acc. and such, and if you kill it once its dead, and you have to buy another one. I guess Ill keep trying. Thanks for your help with this, You and Broke EF have showed it doesnt just work for every car...
Less weight is better.
04-16-2011, 12:55 AM
#45
04-16-2011, 01:58 AM
#47
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Seeing as it hasn't been updated in probably 4-6 years, it could say 20 sec club and I could care less. Not everyone is looking for forum bragging rights. When you aren't broke then maybe you will understand.
Last edited by 5w20; 04-16-2011 at 02:07 AM.
04-16-2011, 09:14 AM
#50
Yes did you run a seperate feed to it from the battery directly to it. Not the same cable as the one going to the starter. Look when you try and spin the motor over it draws a large amount of current and at the same time voltage will drop due to the cable length. When you run a seperate cable to the fuse block (power term.) the voltage won't drop or spike? It will stay the same as the battery and thus the computer won't cut out. If this doesn't fix it you have other issues.
If the bulk heads are fed from the same wire as trying to start the car it will not work.
The 4 is too small even if parelled. Min. size in MOP is 2 or bigger.
If the bulk heads are fed from the same wire as trying to start the car it will not work.
The 4 is too small even if parelled. Min. size in MOP is 2 or bigger.
So it is bigger then #2, and i have high quality stinger really fine strand stuff that is very low resistance.
04-16-2011, 09:22 AM
#51
I understand everyone tries to help everyone on here, and no one knows exactly how my car was wired, but i am an Electrician. 
i always knew my power and ground was good just never had a night to devote to figuring this out, until last night.
We had a couple different ideas to try going into this. So the problem here actually lies in the small factory wire that comes from the relay on the drivers side of the car.
IF you jump out the starter from the big wire, to the small post, i bet it will turn over perfect everytime. So then we thought maybe we didn't have enough feed coming from over there.(my 2 walbro fuel pumps get there power from that factory stud) But that was definatly not the case. I de pined the purple wire going into the bottom of the starter wire. The green wire is the signal from the key. The bigger red wire is the constant power.
After de pinning the purple i just touched it to the post. that is right there where it gets its power from. This is bypassing the relay. And it turned over every time perfect.
An easier way to test this would be to jump from the heavy red wire to the purple wire with good 12v's.
For what ever reason the relay cannot hold the load of the solenoid engaging on the starter. So i used the factory wiring, and wired in a 30a automotive relay, and the car turns over better then it ever has. Even better then when the battery was upfront. I am guessing the relay was on the border line from the factory, and with age, and the added distance it just isn't good enough...
I really hope this helps you guys out, this is a very simple fix, easy to test, and should cost you 3-4 bucks for a automotive relay.
Thanks, Chris
Id also like to add, there is no voltage drop anywhere in my car. less then .01 volts. Even on the small wire down at the starter, so it is not a problem of this wire being to far, or not being able to handle the load, the problem here lies in the relay. I even tried another factory relay in there, and it did the same thing. I dont know if the pins on the relay are to small, or if the relay just cannot handle the load. There isn't really any information.
i always knew my power and ground was good just never had a night to devote to figuring this out, until last night.We had a couple different ideas to try going into this. So the problem here actually lies in the small factory wire that comes from the relay on the drivers side of the car.
IF you jump out the starter from the big wire, to the small post, i bet it will turn over perfect everytime. So then we thought maybe we didn't have enough feed coming from over there.(my 2 walbro fuel pumps get there power from that factory stud) But that was definatly not the case. I de pined the purple wire going into the bottom of the starter wire. The green wire is the signal from the key. The bigger red wire is the constant power.
After de pinning the purple i just touched it to the post. that is right there where it gets its power from. This is bypassing the relay. And it turned over every time perfect.
An easier way to test this would be to jump from the heavy red wire to the purple wire with good 12v's.
For what ever reason the relay cannot hold the load of the solenoid engaging on the starter. So i used the factory wiring, and wired in a 30a automotive relay, and the car turns over better then it ever has. Even better then when the battery was upfront. I am guessing the relay was on the border line from the factory, and with age, and the added distance it just isn't good enough...
I really hope this helps you guys out, this is a very simple fix, easy to test, and should cost you 3-4 bucks for a automotive relay.
Thanks, Chris
Id also like to add, there is no voltage drop anywhere in my car. less then .01 volts. Even on the small wire down at the starter, so it is not a problem of this wire being to far, or not being able to handle the load, the problem here lies in the relay. I even tried another factory relay in there, and it did the same thing. I dont know if the pins on the relay are to small, or if the relay just cannot handle the load. There isn't really any information.
Last edited by Sideways240sx; 04-16-2011 at 09:30 AM.
04-16-2011, 04:56 PM
#52
I understand everyone tries to help everyone on here, and no one knows exactly how my car was wired, but i am an Electrician. i always knew my power and ground was good just never had a night to devote to figuring this out, until last night.
We had a couple different ideas to try going into this. So the problem here actually lies in the small factory wire that comes from the relay on the drivers side of the car.
IF you jump out the starter from the big wire, to the small post, i bet it will turn over perfect everytime. So then we thought maybe we didn't have enough feed coming from over there.(my 2 walbro fuel pumps get there power from that factory stud) But that was definatly not the case. I de pined the purple wire going into the bottom of the starter wire. The green wire is the signal from the key. The bigger red wire is the constant power.
After de pinning the purple i just touched it to the post. that is right there where it gets its power from. This is bypassing the relay. And it turned over every time perfect.
An easier way to test this would be to jump from the heavy red wire to the purple wire with good 12v's.
For what ever reason the relay cannot hold the load of the solenoid engaging on the starter. So i used the factory wiring, and wired in a 30a automotive relay, and the car turns over better then it ever has. Even better then when the battery was upfront. I am guessing the relay was on the border line from the factory, and with age, and the added distance it just isn't good enough...
I really hope this helps you guys out, this is a very simple fix, easy to test, and should cost you 3-4 bucks for a automotive relay.
Thanks, Chris
Id also like to add, there is no voltage drop anywhere in my car. less then .01 volts. Even on the small wire down at the starter, so it is not a problem of this wire being to far, or not being able to handle the load, the problem here lies in the relay. I even tried another factory relay in there, and it did the same thing. I dont know if the pins on the relay are to small, or if the relay just cannot handle the load. There isn't really any information.
i always knew my power and ground was good just never had a night to devote to figuring this out, until last night.We had a couple different ideas to try going into this. So the problem here actually lies in the small factory wire that comes from the relay on the drivers side of the car.
IF you jump out the starter from the big wire, to the small post, i bet it will turn over perfect everytime. So then we thought maybe we didn't have enough feed coming from over there.(my 2 walbro fuel pumps get there power from that factory stud) But that was definatly not the case. I de pined the purple wire going into the bottom of the starter wire. The green wire is the signal from the key. The bigger red wire is the constant power.
After de pinning the purple i just touched it to the post. that is right there where it gets its power from. This is bypassing the relay. And it turned over every time perfect.
An easier way to test this would be to jump from the heavy red wire to the purple wire with good 12v's.
For what ever reason the relay cannot hold the load of the solenoid engaging on the starter. So i used the factory wiring, and wired in a 30a automotive relay, and the car turns over better then it ever has. Even better then when the battery was upfront. I am guessing the relay was on the border line from the factory, and with age, and the added distance it just isn't good enough...
I really hope this helps you guys out, this is a very simple fix, easy to test, and should cost you 3-4 bucks for a automotive relay.
Thanks, Chris
Id also like to add, there is no voltage drop anywhere in my car. less then .01 volts. Even on the small wire down at the starter, so it is not a problem of this wire being to far, or not being able to handle the load, the problem here lies in the relay. I even tried another factory relay in there, and it did the same thing. I dont know if the pins on the relay are to small, or if the relay just cannot handle the load. There isn't really any information.
Last edited by RARON455; 04-16-2011 at 07:36 PM.
08-11-2011, 04:05 PM
#54
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Would it be possible to get some pictures up of how exactly you bypassed the relay? I am a little confused about where and which wires to cross.
Could anyone explain or post a picture? Would be great additional info I am sure.
Could anyone explain or post a picture? Would be great additional info I am sure.
08-13-2011, 08:45 PM
#57
OK, I cant post pics of my exact setup because I have my fuse blocks relocated under my fender but that is not an issue. The first thing I did was went to autozone and bought a relay http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...h&fromType=oem This relay has an extra contact that wont be used but is absolutely fine for this application. Then locate the fuse block that contains the starter relay, look at the cover and locate where it is. You need to flip this fuse block over and locate the wires that go into that relay,, (I HAVE INCLUDED A GM SCHEMATIC) You then cut the wires (I cut them close to the fuse block so I would have plenty of slack.) Then strip the ends of those wires and crimp spade terminals on the ends of the wires. Then plug the wires into the terminals, (I have included a schematic) Once the wires are in the relay mount it somewhere out of the way and put the fuse block back where it goes and you are done.
I have had this setup for months, and it has completely fixed my problem, My problem was when I put the battery in the trunk, I Ran 1/0 welding cable to the front, and two (1/0) grounds, one to the frame, and one to the body, when I hit the start switch, clickity click for a bit and then start, sometimes, every once in a great while it would start right up, maybe 1 outta 100. rest of the time click click click then start. EVEN on a brand new battery. THIS ABSOLUTELY FIXED THE PROBLEM, it is the only thing I did and it worked perfect. Thank you again Sideways240sx for solving this problem some of us had and others didnt.
HERE IS WHERE THE STARTER RELAY IS
HERE IS THE GM SCHEMATIC YOU ARE LOOKING FOR THE RED/PURPLE/YELLOW-BLACK/DARK GREEN WIRES THEY ARE THE ONES GOING TO THE STARTER RELAY
AND HERE IS EXACTLY HOW TO WIRE THE RELAY UP
DONT LAUGH AT MY PAINT DIAGRAM I AM NOT A COMPUTER WIZ!!!
I hope this helps
I have had this setup for months, and it has completely fixed my problem, My problem was when I put the battery in the trunk, I Ran 1/0 welding cable to the front, and two (1/0) grounds, one to the frame, and one to the body, when I hit the start switch, clickity click for a bit and then start, sometimes, every once in a great while it would start right up, maybe 1 outta 100. rest of the time click click click then start. EVEN on a brand new battery. THIS ABSOLUTELY FIXED THE PROBLEM, it is the only thing I did and it worked perfect. Thank you again Sideways240sx for solving this problem some of us had and others didnt.
HERE IS WHERE THE STARTER RELAY IS
HERE IS THE GM SCHEMATIC YOU ARE LOOKING FOR THE RED/PURPLE/YELLOW-BLACK/DARK GREEN WIRES THEY ARE THE ONES GOING TO THE STARTER RELAY
AND HERE IS EXACTLY HOW TO WIRE THE RELAY UP
DONT LAUGH AT MY PAINT DIAGRAM I AM NOT A COMPUTER WIZ!!!
I hope this helps
Last edited by RARON455; 08-13-2011 at 09:07 PM.
08-15-2011, 09:56 AM
#59
i did this in hopes of fixing my issue with no luck. but mines not identical to yours. mine cranks over fine but when it does it resets the cluster. (gauges sweep and trip resets) if i put it up front it works fine. using 2ga all the way, including to the fuse boxes and the alternator. i have suspected the starter but have been hesitate to buy a new one and it not fix the issue. especially since it cranks over fine.
08-25-2011, 09:14 PM
#60
I have a pretty new welding cable I had made by a starter/alternator repair shop for sale if interested it's 2/0 I think but I could make sure. Then ends are crimped,soldered and heatshrunk if you are interested.
I had the same probs you are describing trying to put the battery in the back. I had the batter grounded in the back, the motor grounded up front and I even ran a 2/0 ground cable from the battery to the block and it still would click it's *** off. I went to bigger gauge cable for the starter, alternator and fuse with the same issue. I bought a huge *** battery from sears still the same click. I went to an 11lb battery up front and went back to the stock battery cables problem solved.
What really pissed me off is a buddy came over that had his battery relocated to the back all half assed with the battery end of his + cable missing the eyelet and he just had like 5 strands of cable wrapped around the battery screw and his **** turned on
I had the same probs you are describing trying to put the battery in the back. I had the batter grounded in the back, the motor grounded up front and I even ran a 2/0 ground cable from the battery to the block and it still would click it's *** off. I went to bigger gauge cable for the starter, alternator and fuse with the same issue. I bought a huge *** battery from sears still the same click. I went to an 11lb battery up front and went back to the stock battery cables problem solved.
What really pissed me off is a buddy came over that had his battery relocated to the back all half assed with the battery end of his + cable missing the eyelet and he just had like 5 strands of cable wrapped around the battery screw and his **** turned on