He last posted what he checked and mentioned he thinks it's his starter. I explained to him that I doubt it's his starter and to try his stock cables again with a battery up front. If it clicks again then ok maybe it's his starter but I highly doubt it.

I've posted all that tried to get the **** to work with the battery in the back. I had several other people check it and posted here several times with no luck.

Good luck OP hopefully you will find an answer.

 

su puta perra bomba madre

 

Dopefed,,,,Thanks for all the advice, with my stock cables the car starts fine, No trouble...I take my stock battery cable off, and put my 1/0 on and clickity click then start. My voltage drop test shows that with the cable I am losing roughly 2-3 tenths of a volt, I dont see why that would cause a problem, unless the resistance in my starter motor was right on the edge, thats why I was suspecting my starter, I guess Ill have to keep the thing up here,,I could try a light battery but from what I am reading, they just dont last on a car with alot of acc. and such, and if you kill it once its dead, and you have to buy another one. I guess Ill keep trying. Thanks for your help with this, You and Broke EF have showed it doesnt just work for every car...

 

Dopefedz was stubborn. You could use a small battery, they have shown to be successful with c6z's and so far he hasn't had a problem with it that I know of. Those couple of tenths of voltage drop turns a good battery into a weak battery, hence the clickfest. I

Less weight is better.

 

When you get out of the 12's maybe I will take your advice.

Sean

 

We fixed it, it was simple, and had NOTHING to do with anything anyone in this thread was talking about.

Sean

 

Seeing as it hasn't been updated in probably 4-6 years, it could say 20 sec club and I could care less. Not everyone is looking for forum bragging rights. When you aren't broke then maybe you will understand.

 

Care to share?

 

Broke EF- what fixed the problem?

 

If you look at circular mills for #4 , two sets of 4 parallel is actually equal to #1.

So it is bigger then #2, and i have high quality stinger really fine strand stuff that is very low resistance.

 

I understand everyone tries to help everyone on here, and no one knows exactly how my car was wired, but i am an Electrician. i always knew my power and ground was good just never had a night to devote to figuring this out, until last night.

We had a couple different ideas to try going into this. So the problem here actually lies in the small factory wire that comes from the relay on the drivers side of the car.

IF you jump out the starter from the big wire, to the small post, i bet it will turn over perfect everytime. So then we thought maybe we didn't have enough feed coming from over there.(my 2 walbro fuel pumps get there power from that factory stud) But that was definatly not the case. I de pined the purple wire going into the bottom of the starter wire. The green wire is the signal from the key. The bigger red wire is the constant power.

After de pinning the purple i just touched it to the post. that is right there where it gets its power from. This is bypassing the relay. And it turned over every time perfect.

An easier way to test this would be to jump from the heavy red wire to the purple wire with good 12v's.

For what ever reason the relay cannot hold the load of the solenoid engaging on the starter. So i used the factory wiring, and wired in a 30a automotive relay, and the car turns over better then it ever has. Even better then when the battery was upfront. I am guessing the relay was on the border line from the factory, and with age, and the added distance it just isn't good enough...

I really hope this helps you guys out, this is a very simple fix, easy to test, and should cost you 3-4 bucks for a automotive relay.


Thanks, Chris


Id also like to add, there is no voltage drop anywhere in my car. less then .01 volts. Even on the small wire down at the starter, so it is not a problem of this wire being to far, or not being able to handle the load, the problem here lies in the relay. I even tried another factory relay in there, and it did the same thing. I dont know if the pins on the relay are to small, or if the relay just cannot handle the load. There isn't really any information.

 

I just did what this man said,, IT fixed my problem, The only thing Else I did was run a 10 ga ground wire to the relay instead of using that tiny black/yellow wire that comes from the BCM,,,, CHRIS,, thanks again bro, You are the MAN on this problem and own the fix to it..

 

No problem. Glad I could help. I always planned on figuring it out as soon as i had time, just didn't get back to it for a little while with everything else going on. All i knew, was my battery was staying in the back!


Thanks, Chris

 

Would it be possible to get some pictures up of how exactly you bypassed the relay? I am a little confused about where and which wires to cross.

Could anyone explain or post a picture? Would be great additional info I am sure.

 

anyone?

 

ledesordre,, PM'ed ya Ill try to take some pics tonight.
After months of this swap,,, I have had ZERO problems and my car will start every time,, even with the low battery no clickity click

 

OK, I cant post pics of my exact setup because I have my fuse blocks relocated under my fender but that is not an issue. The first thing I did was went to autozone and bought a relay http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...h&fromType=oem This relay has an extra contact that wont be used but is absolutely fine for this application. Then locate the fuse block that contains the starter relay, look at the cover and locate where it is. You need to flip this fuse block over and locate the wires that go into that relay,, (I HAVE INCLUDED A GM SCHEMATIC) You then cut the wires (I cut them close to the fuse block so I would have plenty of slack.) Then strip the ends of those wires and crimp spade terminals on the ends of the wires. Then plug the wires into the terminals, (I have included a schematic) Once the wires are in the relay mount it somewhere out of the way and put the fuse block back where it goes and you are done.
I have had this setup for months, and it has completely fixed my problem, My problem was when I put the battery in the trunk, I Ran 1/0 welding cable to the front, and two (1/0) grounds, one to the frame, and one to the body, when I hit the start switch, clickity click for a bit and then start, sometimes, every once in a great while it would start right up, maybe 1 outta 100. rest of the time click click click then start. EVEN on a brand new battery. THIS ABSOLUTELY FIXED THE PROBLEM, it is the only thing I did and it worked perfect. Thank you again Sideways240sx for solving this problem some of us had and others didnt.
HERE IS WHERE THE STARTER RELAY IS

HERE IS THE GM SCHEMATIC YOU ARE LOOKING FOR THE RED/PURPLE/YELLOW-BLACK/DARK GREEN WIRES THEY ARE THE ONES GOING TO THE STARTER RELAY

AND HERE IS EXACTLY HOW TO WIRE THE RELAY UP
DONT LAUGH AT MY PAINT DIAGRAM I AM NOT A COMPUTER WIZ!!!

I hope this helps

 

thanks a ton. that helps immensely. this should really be sticked IMO. going to attempt to fix my clicks tonight.

 

i did this in hopes of fixing my issue with no luck. but mines not identical to yours. mine cranks over fine but when it does it resets the cluster. (gauges sweep and trip resets) if i put it up front it works fine. using 2ga all the way, including to the fuse boxes and the alternator. i have suspected the starter but have been hesitate to buy a new one and it not fix the issue. especially since it cranks over fine.

 

^^^ I've done everything describe above and have the exact same issue!!