Problems, Are You guys using a different batt. for rear relocation UPDATE!!
04-12-2011, 09:50 PM
#1
Problems, Are You guys using a different batt. for rear relocation UPDATE!! I have tried this twice and keep having the same problem. I put the stock battery in the rear, and run 2 ga to the starter, and a 2 ga. ground to the frame and body. When I try to start the car IT clicks for a few seconds then starts. I put the battery back up front, and all is OK. I tried a relocation last year and had the same problem. I have since then bought a new Autozone Gold battery for my car, I would have thought it would be fine,... I have been told that I will have to try another battery, An optima or such,, All you guys doing the relocation swapping batteries too?
Last edited by RARON455; 04-13-2011 at 08:53 PM.
04-12-2011, 10:17 PM
#3
I welded a bolt to my cage mounting plate (which is welded to the rear inner fender) for the ground, sanded to bare metal, and then ran a 4 ga cable from the engine to the front subframe, same thing sanded to bare metal..
04-13-2011, 07:47 AM
#6
AWG American Wire Gauge 4AWG and 4 gauge are exactly the same size wire. My Ground wire is two gauge, I guess Ill try 1/0 to feed the starter, I did a voltage drop test Had 12.6 volts at the battery and 12.4 at the starter, didnt test while trying to start though.
04-13-2011, 08:14 AM
#7
I have a pretty new welding cable I had made by a starter/alternator repair shop for sale if interested it's 2/0 I think but I could make sure. Then ends are crimped,soldered and heatshrunk if you are interested.
I had the same probs you are describing trying to put the battery in the back. I had the batter grounded in the back, the motor grounded up front and I even ran a 2/0 ground cable from the battery to the block and it still would click it's *** off. I went to bigger gauge cable for the starter, alternator and fuse with the same issue. I bought a huge *** battery from sears still the same click. I went to an 11lb battery up front and went back to the stock battery cables problem solved.
What really pissed me off is a buddy came over that had his battery relocated to the back all half assed with the battery end of his + cable missing the eyelet and he just had like 5 strands of cable wrapped around the battery screw and his **** turned on
I had the same probs you are describing trying to put the battery in the back. I had the batter grounded in the back, the motor grounded up front and I even ran a 2/0 ground cable from the battery to the block and it still would click it's *** off. I went to bigger gauge cable for the starter, alternator and fuse with the same issue. I bought a huge *** battery from sears still the same click. I went to an 11lb battery up front and went back to the stock battery cables problem solved.
What really pissed me off is a buddy came over that had his battery relocated to the back all half assed with the battery end of his + cable missing the eyelet and he just had like 5 strands of cable wrapped around the battery screw and his **** turned on
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04-13-2011, 12:54 PM
#9
Maybe you have connection issues with the way the wires are connected to the eyelets. How did you crimp or connect the lugs to the wire?
I just did some searching and 2GA sounds pretty small for the distance the wire is running and the amount of amps it needs to carry. It looks like most use 1/0 for a battery relocation.
I just did some searching and 2GA sounds pretty small for the distance the wire is running and the amount of amps it needs to carry. It looks like most use 1/0 for a battery relocation.
Last edited by 5.3LJimmy; 04-13-2011 at 01:54 PM.
04-13-2011, 08:31 PM
#11
UPDATE
Here is what I did, I bought some 1/0 welding cable It takes 14 ft to route to where my battery is in the trunk. I crimped one connector of the cable and soldered the other connector on, I hooked the one end of the positive cable up to the starter and the other end to the battery(WHILE IN THE FRONT OF THE CAR) I hooked my grounds up like this, One 2ga going to the front frame one 8ga going to the body, and one 2ga tightened up under one of the starter bolts and a 4ga going from the engine to the frame. all connections cleaned STILL THE SAME clicking,,then it starts,,,,IT is not a ground problem and I am using 1/0 wire for the pos. I then used the battery from my truck, same clicking.
Now any ideas from people, I Ohmed my power cable out, from connector to connector 0 Ohms No resistance. It does not get any better than that. Measured voltage at battery while cranking, measured voltage at starter while cranking, SAME VOLTAGE.
Battery is 700 cold cranking, 875 cranking with a 90 reserve.
I quit, I spent 75.00 in wire and connectors today, that 32 lb ****** is gonna stay up under the hood
Here is what I did, I bought some 1/0 welding cable It takes 14 ft to route to where my battery is in the trunk. I crimped one connector of the cable and soldered the other connector on, I hooked the one end of the positive cable up to the starter and the other end to the battery(WHILE IN THE FRONT OF THE CAR) I hooked my grounds up like this, One 2ga going to the front frame one 8ga going to the body, and one 2ga tightened up under one of the starter bolts and a 4ga going from the engine to the frame. all connections cleaned STILL THE SAME clicking,,then it starts,,,,IT is not a ground problem and I am using 1/0 wire for the pos. I then used the battery from my truck, same clicking.
Now any ideas from people, I Ohmed my power cable out, from connector to connector 0 Ohms No resistance. It does not get any better than that. Measured voltage at battery while cranking, measured voltage at starter while cranking, SAME VOLTAGE.
Battery is 700 cold cranking, 875 cranking with a 90 reserve.
I quit, I spent 75.00 in wire and connectors today, that 32 lb ****** is gonna stay up under the hood
04-13-2011, 09:56 PM
#12
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humm. I had a old amp kit for my battery relocation that was using 4 gauge wire. It would start sometimes. I went to lowes and bough 18' of 4 awg and it was thicker and harder to bend. Havent had a problem since. I have 18ft at my house. Im in allen which is alittle bit of a hike but you are welcome to come to my house and we can check it out together if you are interested. I have beer
04-13-2011, 10:51 PM
#13
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ohming a whire means absolutely nothing. 1 strand will ohm 0. You have to do what is called a voltage drop test. This is where you load the wire in question and check for volts going through the meter. Hook the meter to each end of the wire then try to start it. .5v for positive and 1.v for ground. Others may have other specs but thats how its done.
04-13-2011, 11:30 PM
#14
This won't solve your problem, but you should always have your ground the same same gauge as your positive. I have my battery in the back with 1/0 welding cable with no problems. I welded a 3/8 bolt to the frame and thats where my negative cable attaches. I think your not getting a good ground.
04-14-2011, 11:56 AM
#16
Go to a lightweight battery and your stock cables and be done with it. I dealt with that clicking **** for a year before my buddy convinced me to just use a smaller battery up front.
I paid $80 for this battery at the local auto parts store. It's the same as the Odysseys and all the others just without the fancy case. It mounts to front frame rail.
I paid $80 for this battery at the local auto parts store. It's the same as the Odysseys and all the others just without the fancy case. It mounts to front frame rail.
Last edited by DopeFedZ; 04-14-2011 at 12:13 PM.
04-14-2011, 06:05 PM
#18
I tried grounding to the starter itself to troubleshoot, since the starter is not engaging directly, I ran another ground to it, the starter grounds to the engine so thats why I tried another ground, I also had a ground on the block, the frame and the body. I will be doing a voltage drop test tonight to see where the loss is.
04-14-2011, 08:40 PM
#20
Someone needs to actually solve this problem for once. All I ever see about this is "Its a ground issue", or "You need to do a voltage drop test". I have yet to see anyone say that they fixed this problem. I guarantee 100% that our grounds are more than enough. Now, we have not done a voltage drop test (will do tomorrow), but there is not really anywhere for it to drop. In our case we are dealing with a race car so you have the fuel pumps, the ignition, and the starter. All of which are needed to start the car. We don't have a stereo, HVAC, defroster, or anything like that putting a drain on anything. Moving the battery back to the front is not really an option for us either.
Like I said, we will be working on this stupid problem tomorrow and Ill update here with anything we find. Good luck RARON, let us know what you come up with.
Sean
Like I said, we will be working on this stupid problem tomorrow and Ill update here with anything we find. Good luck RARON, let us know what you come up with.
Sean