Uhg, tried the relay deal with no luck! Scratch another thing to try off my list

 

Me too. But I am only using 2awg wire from the back and for my grounds.

Now I ordered 25 feet of 1/0 welding cable from weldingsupply.com and going to try this for my grounds and leads.

What gauge wire are you using ramairws6?

 

Exact same thing for both. I was looking at the local welding shop today and was starting to think maybe i should try 0/1 also. Not sure if the power or the ground would be more important. That crap is $6 bucks a foot though and i'd hate to keep throwing money at **** that ain't gonna work!??

 

check the site i listed you might find a better deal than what you just described..

 

Thanx, i'll check it out...

 

YESSSSS today i fixed my clicky click with info in this thread. THANK YOU SO MUCH GUYS.

I am even still using 2ga wire from the trunk batt to up front and for the grounds. the only thing i changed today was going from 0/1 gaug from ALT to 2ga wire coming from the back and changing the relay.

It will still occasionally click 1-2 times but nothing like the 5-15 times before. I am positive that as I keep upgrading the gauge of the wiring (grounds and cable from battery to front of car) it will even eliminate those 1-2 clicks (totally liveable anyway)

 

Okay I know this thread is old but I have searched and fought this very same issue with no luck. Well today I upgraded the relay to a 30 amp 5 pin relay like mentioned and absolutely no improvement. I could feel the relay clicking exactly like the starter. Bypassing the relay let it start everytime without issue. I was using a test light to check to see if the green or the yellow/black wire was a ground or had power during start up. When I tested the yellow/black wire it started up perfectly over and over again. The yellow wire gets grounded through the bcm but for some reason not very well. I disconnected the yellow wire and made my own ground off the relay and my starting problem is gone!

I have fought this for months on end. It seems the problem still persists for some and I just wanted to share my experience. Hope this helps someone.

 

try this ..use a ford style starter ..take the crank start wire from the factory solenoid ...and jump the wire on the starter as shown ..this combo works on my 15 to 1 555 BBC with no issues
Remote Starter Solenoid Installation

So your Chevy is experiencing hot start problems. You've ruled out the starter as the culprit, or replaced it entirely, you've checked all the connections but you still experience those no start conditions. What to do next? Add a Ford Starter Solenoid to your Chevy of course!
It worked for Chevy, it can work for you. Chevrolet offered a remote solenoid for their motorhomes for the very same reason.

Why? Because when wire gets warmer, its resitance goes up. Which means, when things are toasty warm your starter is not getting enough juice to activate the (on starter) solenoid from the original "start" wire. The wire is essentially acting like a ballast resistor. As well, the starter heat soak creates its own set of unique problems. Wiring in a Ford Solenoid will alleviate the wire voltage drop problem by giving the starter mounted solenoid full battery potential when you turn the key.

What you need to do;

Get a Ford starter solenoid, of course.
These units ground through the bracket. For fool-proof grounding, run a well grounded wire to one of the screws you use to secure the solenoid to the firewall.
If you are adamant about not having any Ford parts on your General Motors product, simply visit your favorite AC Delco parts house and purchase p/n U939.
You can use just about any Ford starter solenoid, later model cars came with a stubby unit with all the terminals opposite the mounting flange, such as found on 1987 and newer Ford Crown Vics and Mercury Grand Marquis. (until 1996 or so when Ford went to the starter mounted solenoid like the Chevy your converting. Go figure.)
Relocate ALL the wires that are currently connected to the BAT terminal on your starter (the large terminal) to the 'hot' side of the Ford solenoid (that's the side connected to the battery, typically the large post to the left on the ford solenoid)
This will allow you to relocate the wires away from the headers and hot engine block. You will only have a SINGLE cable running to the starter, not a bunch of wires.
Relocate the 'start' wire on the starter solenoid (small terminal closest to the engine) to the 'S' terminal on the ford solenoid.
Run a new heavy guage wire (battery cable) from the right side (non-hot) of the ford solenoid to the BAT terminal on the starter (the large terminal).
Run a wire or short the "S" terminal to the "BAT" on the stock GM solenoid. This way, the solenoid is getting FULL battery voltage to the solenoid.

Thats about all there is to adding a remote solenoid to your GM. A couple advantages to having the Ford solenoid:

-It's a lot easier to "start the car with a screwdriver" since all the terminals are up on the firewall.

-Convenient to connect a "bump-starter switch" to set valve lash.

-Only wire wire running to starter. Which means much easier to install or remove starter, and less likely that a group of wires will be touching headers or exhaust manifolds.





This information is only intended as an overview and may not include all the necessary information, data, or facts.

Copyright 2003 Maliburacing.com

 

You all seem to be having problems with the factory wire feeding the solenoid. Why not eliminate it, and just put a push button going straight to power, then the other side of the push button to the solenoid with a fuse before the button. Problem solved.

 

I had the same problem I ran another ground to the relay in the fuse box and it fixed the problem