is this a good Proportioning Valve for abs delete?
I wanted to hide my stuff too, but them it would be harder to work on the car. I change things form stock to make it easier to work on the car 1st over looks tho. Heres mine
I really wanted to fit a fitting with the metric bubble flair, one end and NPT the other so you could screw the prob. valve right into the master
But didn't find anything a few years ago. You wouldn't have to mount it, less fitting, super tight for room around it.......
But I'm happy were I put it, Other place was under the master to hid it. But a t56 car I need to get under there to get the master res out. About once a year when the pedal stiffer (I re bleed and change most of the fluid as a I can when it gets dark). But if you take the master out and apart, you get alot of junk and clutch dust sticks the the spring coils, and the bumpstop. Clean it all up and the clutch will be really easy again
I bench bleed it all and fit the res under the master, were I would think if the prop valve was hidden under there it would be a bitch to do, and I left it open to get your arm under there to get the Ubolt out.
The linelock I used the stock braking line of the master. Or it was the SLP kit one? I dont remeber I got the linelock for free is was just around the shop for years without all the parts some returned it? But running the line up over like that you can get to the plugs and headers easier.
http://s2.photobucket.com/albums/y11...t=IMG_1367.jpg
The only think I would change is I could do it again would maybe mount the line lock back more, like near the prop valve. But back more and run the driver front brake like down like you need to. But run the passenger one up under the firewall, and down to that side. So you can take the Kmember off without touching the brake lines. I could do it now but taking the rock out of the mounts, but I would have the line under the oil pan. I made the lines with the motor out when I did cam, and rod bolts years ago. And the motor hasn't been out since then, so I really don't have a need for it like it was a race car I took the pan off alot. Just something a saw on some faster cars I thought was cool.
I really wanted to fit a fitting with the metric bubble flair, one end and NPT the other so you could screw the prob. valve right into the master
But didn't find anything a few years ago. You wouldn't have to mount it, less fitting, super tight for room around it.......But I'm happy were I put it, Other place was under the master to hid it. But a t56 car I need to get under there to get the master res out. About once a year when the pedal stiffer (I re bleed and change most of the fluid as a I can when it gets dark). But if you take the master out and apart, you get alot of junk and clutch dust sticks the the spring coils, and the bumpstop. Clean it all up and the clutch will be really easy again
I bench bleed it all and fit the res under the master, were I would think if the prop valve was hidden under there it would be a bitch to do, and I left it open to get your arm under there to get the Ubolt out.The linelock I used the stock braking line of the master. Or it was the SLP kit one? I dont remeber I got the linelock for free is was just around the shop for years without all the parts some returned it? But running the line up over like that you can get to the plugs and headers easier.
http://s2.photobucket.com/albums/y11...t=IMG_1367.jpg
The only think I would change is I could do it again would maybe mount the line lock back more, like near the prop valve. But back more and run the driver front brake like down like you need to. But run the passenger one up under the firewall, and down to that side. So you can take the Kmember off without touching the brake lines. I could do it now but taking the rock out of the mounts, but I would have the line under the oil pan. I made the lines with the motor out when I did cam, and rod bolts years ago. And the motor hasn't been out since then, so I really don't have a need for it like it was a race car I took the pan off alot. Just something a saw on some faster cars I thought was cool.
Thread Starter
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (10)
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 5,353
Likes: 2
From: Bossier city,LA barksdale AFB
yeah thats another way i was going to do it. do u have the valve mounted to anything? i mean i going to do it now one way and when the motor ever goes or i upgrade then i will re do it all the way really want
Last edited by SIC LSX; May 18, 2011 at 02:42 PM.
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Verdad Gallardo I went under the rad support and through the wheel wells with my passenger brake line so I just pull the calipers to drop the k. My prop valve is mounted to the clutch master mount so that obviously won't work in a manual car.
you could do what I did with the motor in, it will just take alot longer. With a long starit brake line it will be harder to see how it will fit. so you would wnat to make a teat shape out of easily bendable wire or saomthing to fit in down wer the line will be. Then make a brake line off that patern. But even if you have to make 2 or 3 brake lines to get them to fit nice down along the motor. The brake line is only like $5-10. Way easier with the driver header out. I would do that maybe?
Hard part will be wear I put the T for the 2 rear brake lines cuz I had 4channle brakes. But if your good with doing repair work on shitty NY winter cars, you know how to carfully cut and flair a brake line in a tight spot. Butting the double flair on stock lines is a bitch the metal is thick and harder then normal brake line you get form the auto parts store. MY build thread has some info and more pics of that. And the metic thread size off the master, and the stock rubber flex lines. And what metric to 3/16s line adaptors fitting you need to convert everything to work together.
Hard part will be wear I put the T for the 2 rear brake lines cuz I had 4channle brakes. But if your good with doing repair work on shitty NY winter cars, you know how to carfully cut and flair a brake line in a tight spot. Butting the double flair on stock lines is a bitch the metal is thick and harder then normal brake line you get form the auto parts store. MY build thread has some info and more pics of that. And the metic thread size off the master, and the stock rubber flex lines. And what metric to 3/16s line adaptors fitting you need to convert everything to work together.
I wanted to hide my stuff too, but them it would be harder to work on the car. I change things form stock to make it easier to work on the car 1st over looks tho. Heres mine
I really wanted to fit a fitting with the metric bubble flair, one end and NPT the other so you could screw the prob. valve right into the master But didn't find anything a few years ago. You wouldn't have to mount it, less fitting, super tight for room around it.......
But I'm happy were I put it, Other place was under the master to hid it. But a t56 car I need to get under there to get the master res out. About once a year when the pedal stiffer (I re bleed and change most of the fluid as a I can when it gets dark). But if you take the master out and apart, you get alot of junk and clutch dust sticks the the spring coils, and the bumpstop. Clean it all up and the clutch will be really easy again I bench bleed it all and fit the res under the master, were I would think if the prop valve was hidden under there it would be a bitch to do, and I left it open to get your arm under there to get the Ubolt out.
The linelock I used the stock braking line of the master. Or it was the SLP kit one? I dont remeber I got the linelock for free is was just around the shop for years without all the parts some returned it? But running the line up over like that you can get to the plugs and headers easier.
http://s2.photobucket.com/albums/y11...t=IMG_1367.jpg
The only think I would change is I could do it again would maybe mount the line lock back more, like near the prop valve. But back more and run the driver front brake like down like you need to. But run the passenger one up under the firewall, and down to that side. So you can take the Kmember off without touching the brake lines. I could do it now but taking the rock out of the mounts, but I would have the line under the oil pan. I made the lines with the motor out when I did cam, and rod bolts years ago. And the motor hasn't been out since then, so I really don't have a need for it like it was a race car I took the pan off alot. Just something a saw on some faster cars I thought was cool.
I really wanted to fit a fitting with the metric bubble flair, one end and NPT the other so you could screw the prob. valve right into the master
But didn't find anything a few years ago. You wouldn't have to mount it, less fitting, super tight for room around it.......But I'm happy were I put it, Other place was under the master to hid it. But a t56 car I need to get under there to get the master res out. About once a year when the pedal stiffer (I re bleed and change most of the fluid as a I can when it gets dark). But if you take the master out and apart, you get alot of junk and clutch dust sticks the the spring coils, and the bumpstop. Clean it all up and the clutch will be really easy again
I bench bleed it all and fit the res under the master, were I would think if the prop valve was hidden under there it would be a bitch to do, and I left it open to get your arm under there to get the Ubolt out.The linelock I used the stock braking line of the master. Or it was the SLP kit one? I dont remeber I got the linelock for free is was just around the shop for years without all the parts some returned it? But running the line up over like that you can get to the plugs and headers easier.
http://s2.photobucket.com/albums/y11...t=IMG_1367.jpg
The only think I would change is I could do it again would maybe mount the line lock back more, like near the prop valve. But back more and run the driver front brake like down like you need to. But run the passenger one up under the firewall, and down to that side. So you can take the Kmember off without touching the brake lines. I could do it now but taking the rock out of the mounts, but I would have the line under the oil pan. I made the lines with the motor out when I did cam, and rod bolts years ago. And the motor hasn't been out since then, so I really don't have a need for it like it was a race car I took the pan off alot. Just something a saw on some faster cars I thought was cool.
I like where the proportioning valve is.
SIC LSX, I saw your car in the July GM HTP, COOL!!!!
