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correct method and order for suspension adjustment?

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Old Jul 2, 2011 | 02:00 PM
  #21  
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There is some interesting ideas and theories in this thread. I dont like to get too in depth on a message board because I make my living tuning drag car chassis and I do things different than most.

The number one thing I see wrong with most chassis setups is not enough air in the rear tires. You need to run as much air as possible . Too little air will cause the car to spin before too much air. Number 2 is what Gizmo said about ride height and alignment. Any bind or anything causing drag will slow the car down. I do agree with buying the best parts your pocket book will allow, thats not always the most expensive. Get your parts from manufacturers that build them in the USA AND actually know how to tune them and install them.

The next thing is go and TEST, write down your changes and make ONE change at a time. I have been building these cars since they came out and I am lucky to have customers who understand the need to test. Thats where you learn what works and what doesnt.
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Old Jul 2, 2011 | 04:25 PM
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Originally Posted by aeicoo
1) The instant center on a torque arm car is ALWAYS directly below, or, even directly above the torque arm front mount.
You can not have the IC above the torque arm. That is exactly what I am talking about. If the lower control arms are pointing at the torque arm you are creating a situation where the parts are working against each other (That puts the IC right in the middle of the torque arm).


3) If the torque arm is installed correctly, it cannot bind within the range of adjustment given on popular LCA relo kits.
This is also not true. There are way too many variables involved.

The bottom line is that you want the torque arm to do the work. Not the lower control arms.
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Old Jul 2, 2011 | 04:29 PM
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Originally Posted by MADMAN
There is some interesting ideas and theories in this thread. I dont like to get too in depth on a message board because I make my living tuning drag car chassis and I do things different than most.

The number one thing I see wrong with most chassis setups is not enough air in the rear tires. You need to run as much air as possible . Too little air will cause the car to spin before too much air. Number 2 is what Gizmo said about ride height and alignment. Any bind or anything causing drag will slow the car down. I do agree with buying the best parts your pocket book will allow, thats not always the most expensive. Get your parts from manufacturers that build them in the USA AND actually know how to tune them and install them.

The next thing is go and TEST, write down your changes and make ONE change at a time. I have been building these cars since they came out and I am lucky to have customers who understand the need to test. Thats where you learn what works and what doesnt.
Excellent post!
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Old Jul 5, 2011 | 11:21 PM
  #24  
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Okay all that said, Im running Non-adjustable T/A/ LCA's..M/T 27" tire now, the 28" looked over kill, car launches straight and doesnt look jacked up..ill measure the rake 2morrow..with QA1 single adjustable and 275lb.s springs up front..stock set up in the rear, dont care to lower it..soo are adjustable T/A's and LCA's...worth the $$?
Edit, Strange 12 bolt and steel drive shaft..
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