here goes:

radiator, you can put a smaller one in, with a single fan. A burkhart support with their small radiator, and the remote water pump would pull alot of weight.
Sheet metal on the front and rear of the main shock tower, that can go.
The small brackets on top of the shock towers, there's 3 layers there, take the outer layer off.
If you put a set of hood pins on, all the latch and whatnot can go.
Smaller radiator overflow
Make the mount for the battery sit on the frame rail, and the entire tray, along with the sheet metal it sits on can go.
Not sure if you use the washer fluid or not.. if not that can go. If you use it, a smaller holder could be put in, probably reducing the weight of that by 1/2

If you go to a small radiator in the burkhart mount, you could take the lower radiator support off, build a small 1/2 inch bar to hold the a/c condenser in place since you want to keep that. Upper radiator support could totally go as well and you could make a 1 3/4 inch bar, with tabs in place on it to hold the headlights and whatnot in place as well.

The wiring, not much you can do there if you want to keep the abs and all that working.
Not sure if you have the fender liners and lower plastic in place. but, if you ditch all that, a small bracket can be made to put along the lower corners of the bumper cover.. combine that with the burkhart support and you will never know that the stock stuff is all gone. I assume you have the bumper suppot already gone? If not, then the burkhart piece will save you alot. And you can cut the flap off that wraps up to the bumper support off along the front.. that saves a little more.

I'd bet that stuff would be a good 30 lbs by the time you're done. Seems hard to believe, and sure it would cause the engine bay to get wet/make a mess on dirty roads... but if you want the weight out, there's something that has to give at some point. I was shocked at how much some of the stuff I took off weighed.

Have you used your hole saw on the metal under the front 1/4 panels, ir cut that off completely? if you hole saw it you can put 10 3.25 inch holes on the outer metal and about 10 on the metal above the tire under the fender liner, per side. That takes alot out if you haven't cut it off and don't want to cut all of it off completely.

 

All that is fine for a race car....this is my dd. 30# = .03 in the 1/4. My front bumber support is still there and drilled. Espescially considerering my car is more of a road race set-up that needs the chassis stiffness there. Will a single fan keep it cool in traffic with the AC on?
Those are great tricks for more of a limited street car or full drag. I have chose not to cut anything on the main chassis of the car. I may drill that under the fender stuff when I repaint my engine bay, but I'll flare them so it stays good and stiff.

 

i used 10 fasteners on my 68 camaro racecar and can take the hood off myself in maybe 15-20 seconds normaly not rushed, but some peps like to use about 18 fasteners, thanks for some idea's too fellas i'm liking the hole saw deal. hey JL can you send me pics of the metal you removed from under the 1/4's not sure i understand what ya did but sounds good. Hiosilver i like what you did with the hood brackets and the k member my car will be on the lift next week. thanks again

 

Cool man...take your time, lay it out and think it over. I'm sure however you choose will turn out great.

 

last time I raced someone, how fast you could get your hood off didn't matter? great thread haha

 

well i'm not plannin to do a hood for a while but all the rest i'm willing to play around with she's my DD and want to have the sleeper look, oh and if anyone saw a car burn down to the ground at capitol raceway you would worry how fast the hood can be off or at least lifted to get to the fire and you'd have your own in car fire extinguisher.,

 

SS I will take some pictures later this week and update my build over thread with them.

18 fastners is alot, that's way more then I was going to do. My hood was getign 4 down each side, 1 above each headlight cover, 1 in the middle and 2 along the rise where it comes up to the hood. The ears of the hood, are getting cut off and permanently mounted, or a set out of sheet alum or steel, may get built. I hate the way the indented corners of the front 1/4's get beat up from taking the hood on and off... so the ears, will come off and become a permanent part of the car. Should make removal and installation of the hood a little easier in the long run.

Studderin it's not about how fast you can get the hood off, it's more of how much of a pita is it.

 

on the fire thing. The fuel pump being on with a fuel leak under the hood, is the big bad fast as **** engine fire deals. Getting the fuel pump off is if the best on that, getting your hood open, 5 sec faster is not **** when the pump is pumping into the fire. And without having something to put the fire out right there with you, your better off keeping the hood closed FYI. Feeding it air is bad, Ive driven cars that had a few engine fires and I did or ran out of fire extinguisher (sp?) and closed the hood to slow it down till the fire trucks got there with foam.
Remember how your pump is wired and your electric system, get them off 1st.

 

well i was exagerating but still people use too many, and thanks look forward to seeing them. and with the fire i'm talking more about carbed cars i guess with like carb backfires or small fire thats turns big but is easy to put out if you get the hood up. major fires yeah shoot under or threw the fender, but this is race car ****.

 

Getting the pump off is key yes. Having an on board fire system (halon, or the safe version of it) will kill the fire, even if the fuel is still pumping. It sucks all the o2 out of the immediate area for the lack of a better explanation.

Kill switch @ the back of the car, one next to the driver ( or easy access to the fuel pump kill switch at a minimum), and a halon/fire system = about as good as you can hope for.

I still stress, that for a race car, if you're not trying to go a ton of rounds without touching the car run the smallest amount/capacity cell you can get away with. Putting a 2-3 gal. in the nose, will keep the fire in only one end of the car, and also decreases the amount of fire alot. 2 gallons worth of fire is ALOT less then say 10 gallons worth of fire.....


I hear ya with the carb fire.. and that's one reason I'm doing the fire system.. carb is going on the next motor for sure.

 

So which did you go with?

-Dustin-

 

I just made a post about this in Studderin's other thread. I can't believe NHRA/IHRA haven't outlawed Dzus fasteners yet. I don't have a problem with pins, they come out quickly. 20-30 extra seconds to get the hood open could make the difference of your car burning to the ground! I doubt anyone wants to stand there and open 10 Dzus fasteners while they are being BBQ'd by a fire. Visually pleasing, yes. Practical, no.

 

I'm more surprised that they haven't mandated a fire supression system in any car with a dzus fastened hood... that to me would make more sense no?

 

I voted Dzus. I have Dzus, I love them. My hood is secure, looks clean and it is easy to take on and off.

 

That and on any car faster the xx time. I've seen cars with hinged and stock latches burn to the ground because the fire comes out of all the hood gaps and they couldn't get there fingers in there to release the secondary latch. On an 11 second stock hood, hinges, and latches car.

 

Could you please fix the link, I'd like to see pics of lightened hinges?
Also you wrote yours was 3100#, but what did it weigh to begin with?
I'm trying to find what can be lightened on my front end, it's heavy as hell now.
Daily driver too

 

just curious...but how few dzus fasteners could you run and still be safe? i really want a VFN sunoco pin on but i hate how ugly regular hood pins are. my car is a street car and i don't want it instantly pegged as a "race car" for several obvious reasons....

 

I have 4 per side with a hood pin in the center on the front on my bird.

 

I know its an old thread, but im glad I found it. this went way too much on the weight savings side, I was hoping for more pics of pinned and dzues hoods, can anyone help here. I just got a pin on Sunoco vfn and im wondering which to go with. also if I HAVE to use the dzues rails. there expensive!

 

Dzus is expensive but I had no issues installing mine. I wouldn't consider pins unless it was an older car.... Here's a pic of mine