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Alternater relocation set up won,t work with raised rail heads. Wow. Waited 30+ days for delivery. An now this. Slowmaro98, are u still running a alternater? Any issues with urs? Thanks.
I am looking for a little more information on this kit. I am working on a car with this same setup, it was on the car when my friend bought it. How tight are you running the belt? Im not sure if someone changed the crank pulley, but its so close to the main bracket body it rubbed the cogs on the crank pulley under boost, it was clearanced and now has actually rubbed the idler pulley. The main body of the bracket had been cracked and re-welded at the upper right mounting bolt hole if looking at the motor from the front. I just started taking it apart this morning and am going to turn down the outer diameter ears of the idler pulley an 1/8 to clear under boost. My question besides the belt tension is why there is so much flex. Now that I can see the full kit I have a feeling the bolts that hold it to the side block may be broken, or the bracket may be cracked somewhere else that I cant see yet. I didnt think to get pics but will get some tomorrow.
After getting the car up in the air on the lift, everything looks to be 100% with the barckets and all the bolts. I really dont think this thing is moving anywhere, I believe the problem is just crank/pulley flex. The pulley combo is 83/42 and you can see in the pics where it had been rubbing under boost, and how close the crank pulley is too the bracket. The idler pulley is now cut and ready to be put back in and see where were at with it now. Im going to try leaving the belt a little looser than before. It was as if the tensioner was ran all the way down to take the slack out of the belt and then tighteed a full 2 turns after that.
Well time for an update. Unfortunately it's not the one you were hoping for. We went through the motor before putting it in the new car. We ended up finding out this block is not holding boost. It kept blowing head gaskets. So the option was either start over with a new block or just go back to naturally aspirated. The decision was made to just go back to naturally aspirated. So now i have a FIC Procharger sitting in my garage. Still undecided if i should sell it or keep it for the next motor. The naturally aspirated motor is now a 416 ci (14.5:1) on E98 making 670 HP. The car is almost complete. Hoping to get out before the end of the season.
Alternater relocation set up won,t work with raised rail heads. Wow. Waited 30+ days for delivery. An now this. Slowmaro98, are u still running a alternater? Any issues with urs? Thanks.
My alternator was relocated to the bottom left side of the block. I never had any issues with alternator getting in the way.
I am looking for a little more information on this kit. I am working on a car with this same setup, it was on the car when my friend bought it. How tight are you running the belt? Im not sure if someone changed the crank pulley, but its so close to the main bracket body it rubbed the cogs on the crank pulley under boost, it was clearanced and now has actually rubbed the idler pulley. The main body of the bracket had been cracked and re-welded at the upper right mounting bolt hole if looking at the motor from the front. I just started taking it apart this morning and am going to turn down the outer diameter ears of the idler pulley an 1/8 to clear under boost. My question besides the belt tension is why there is so much flex. Now that I can see the full kit I have a feeling the bolts that hold it to the side block may be broken, or the bracket may be cracked somewhere else that I cant see yet. I didnt think to get pics but will get some tomorrow.
I believe my bracket was machined a bit where that crank pulley rubbed.
10-12-2014, 01:29 PM
