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Old 08-26-2011, 07:46 AM
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The 300whp isn't helping, your getting parts to work around low power like that.
So your max power is 5600 5800.. SI? You run 26 tires all the time, I thing you can go to a bunch more gear, and would help a ton for the motor getting pulled down with the car out that far. How high can you spin a SI, and not have valve train problems? Like spin it to 6200 if possible,if you want to go faster with the same power and setup. Looks like your crossing the line with a bunch of more rpms left. With the right gear/tire on a t56 you should be in 4th a lot sooner then you.
26s and 4.11's with 300whp I think a change will be most to gain for you. get on the gear ration chart and figure out how much more gear you can run.
Old 08-26-2011, 12:17 PM
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Originally Posted by studderin
The 300whp isn't helping, your getting parts to work around low power like that.
So your max power is 5600 5800.. SI? You run 26 tires all the time, I thing you can go to a bunch more gear, and would help a ton for the motor getting pulled down with the car out that far. How high can you spin a SI, and not have valve train problems? Like spin it to 6200 if possible,if you want to go faster with the same power and setup. Looks like your crossing the line with a bunch of more rpms left. With the right gear/tire on a t56 you should be in 4th a lot sooner then you.
26s and 4.11's with 300whp I think a change will be most to gain for you. get on the gear ration chart and figure out how much more gear you can run.
i shift the car just shy of the rev limiter, the rev limiter is at 6200. im going through the traps now at 5800 with the 4.11s, with 4.30s ill be just under 6100 which is fine with me. the 2.66 first gear in these trannys suck imo. steppin up to the 4.30s will give me a couple hundred more ft lbs to the tires in 1st. with a valve spring and pushrod upgrade i could spin it higher but it probably wont be to any advantage until i have long tubes.
Old 08-26-2011, 12:35 PM
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the best advise I can give is....

get an automatic

haha stirring the pot
Old 08-26-2011, 02:13 PM
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Nice! What rpm was the 2-step set at?

Originally Posted by LSxPwrDZ
You have a few issues going on. I ran a stock bolt on car for a few years and the stock clutch no matter what kind of shape will not grab on a clutch drop with a sticky tire. You need to datalog the engine RPM and vehicle speed to see this. When you launch the vehicle speed will slowly increase but the clutch is slipping which is indicated by the higher rpm when you launch. The engine rpm slowly catches the actual speed and catches causing it to bog. The cure is a few different things, more gear, better clutch with a stock or maybe even slightly heavier than stock flywheel and a better tire like a slick or bias ply to take a higher RPM hit.

You were complaining about the rearend twist which is caused by the engine torqueing the rear counter clockwise if viewing from behind which is wasted energy. The cure for this is a drag bar! Here is a video of my 403 launching on a 150 shot with a 3.89 gear 28x10.5 slick and a drag bar. Notice the rearend doesnt twist on the launch. This is a 1.39 60'

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VODpzrTZafg
Old 08-26-2011, 10:14 PM
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blew up the gear set in the 9" tonight, looks like 4.30s are goin in.
Old 08-26-2011, 10:28 PM
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Subscribing to this thread. Lots of good m6 launching info in here. I wish i could get some qtp's, but my 10 bolt already hates my drag radials...
Old 08-27-2011, 12:24 AM
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Originally Posted by SLP IROC-Z
probably will never be more than a bolt on car. i thought with a puck style they are on or off, wont that drag my rpms down in a hurry? not questioning you, just trying to understand.
Its easy to say that is like a on and off switch, thats what it feels like to me on my car but that does not bother me, i want something to grab and not slip. I could slip the clutch if i wanted on take off so it won't feel like that but i don't care about that.

Mine does not drag my rpm's down because i run a bias ply, my speed sensor shows 30ish mph from launch till the car finally gets up to speed, around 4900 rpm's. I launch at 4500. I hate radials on my car, its no fun with them. It would take alot of work to figure out how to get them to work on my car if i could get them to work. Its a night and day difference running a radial vs bias ply for me.

I say puck style cause i have had problems with a full faced before but that just might have been who made it!

I cut 1.5x 60 ft's all day at the track too. My qa1's fixed the consistency problems i was having on the launch. Mine also needs a drag bar pretty bad.
Old 08-27-2011, 09:31 AM
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Originally Posted by gregrob
Uhhh, no thats pretty much the opposite of what it sounds like. It's hooking so well it's bogging the car.

There is one simple thing here with an M6, launch higher. Launch as high as the tires will hold, and gear it so that it doesn't bog.

A set of 4.30's will make it roll out a little easier.
Agreed. A well made clutch that can take some slip will greatly help.
Originally Posted by gregrob
Also, ditch the drag radials... Fast manual cars dont use them.
You need to be able to keep some driveshaft rotation / slip out of the hole to keep from bogging so bad. Slicks can be slipping yet still cut an awesome 60.

Once a drag radial breaks loose it's not going to recover very well.
All of the above is correct except for the first statement.
Here's one of them.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FJed6iGzEdk
Originally Posted by WheelsUp84z
Yes. Either that or his clutch is slipping off the line from the initial hit and catching. a M6 car does need a little bit of spin to keep the RPM's up, just not a whole lot. A slick style tire is much more forgiving for this.
Agreed.
Originally Posted by SLP IROC-Z
thinkin about starting with doing the clutch, just unsure what to go with. im thinking a ceramic puck disc is probably to much? should i stay with something organic/dual friction like a monster 2 or a mcleod super street pro?
There are a couple trains of thought here. Many F-Body guys love to dump their clutch and let the tires, suspension, 2-step, and rear gears do the work. Since the Vettes use an IRS, dumping a clutch that locks up tight will produce undesirable results such as broken axles, rear output shafts, differentials, transmissions, etc. We also do not have the option of a R&P above 4.10. A well made clutch that can be induced to slip slightly works to mitigate some or most of the bog, thus bettering both your 60' and 330'.
Originally Posted by studderin
The 300whp isn't helping, your getting parts to work around low power like that.
Agreed. Lower HP/TQ and heavy weight make it difficult but not impossible to work around.
Originally Posted by SLP IROC-Z
the 2.66 first gear in these trannys suck imo. steppin up to the 4.30s will give me a couple hundred more ft lbs to the tires in 1st.
This will definitely help. The other option would be to use M12 ratios which give you a much better 1st gear.
Originally Posted by chrs1313
the best advise I can give is....

get an automatic

haha stirring the pot
Only if you wish to go slower.
Just stirring the pot.
Old 08-27-2011, 03:00 PM
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any experience with a full sintered iron disc on the street?
Old 08-27-2011, 03:21 PM
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Originally Posted by SLP IROC-Z
yup you guys are definitly right about the drag bar, never thought id need one this soon, check out that vid i posted, hangin the left front.

i would really like to keep running drag radials, im afraid bias plys are going to slow me down at the top end of the track. going from 18psi down to 16psi will slow the car down a mph/tenth. that is a concern for me. im a big fan of hoosier quick time pros and will run them if i absolutely have to but im willing to spend more time and money to make the radials work.
going to ditch the 4.11s and step up to 4.30s.
anyone have any experience with the ram vds and a solid sintered disc?
Im running a SPEC 4+ on a solid disk/hub. Its held great so far and Ive put down over 700 to the tire and Ive launched at 6k numerous times.
Old 08-27-2011, 03:31 PM
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Originally Posted by SLP IROC-Z
any experience with a full sintered iron disc on the street?
Robz's car has a slipper type clutch with some of the components being sintered iron and was driven on the street but needed to be adjusted. (Many sintered iron clutches have a high coefficient of friction and may be more difficult on the street.) I actually drove it and it had very good street manners for an N/A car. (The ITB was part of what made it streetable.) That being said, this type of clutch is not for the faint of heart. Persistence and perseverance come to mind.

Last edited by GARY2004Z06; 08-27-2011 at 03:37 PM.
Old 08-27-2011, 03:47 PM
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If you do not mind spending money on a clutch, you can run an RPS. We run the BC2 in the C6Z and have had excellent results. We have made several hundred passes, driven thousands of street miles, cut sixty's as low as 1.36 and launched over 6K with minimal wear. (Vette guys care about intervals between rebuilds since to do a clutch is such a PITA.) You would not need full carbon faces on every surface at your power level so you can opt for a less expensive variant. A lighter twin will put more power to the wheels and allow the engine to rev quicker. You can choose a steel or aluminum flywheel.
Old 09-19-2011, 01:00 PM
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just put some miles on my new centersection, the 4.30s feel awesome, big difference from the 4.11s! gotta get her broken in and get up to the track!.
Old 09-19-2011, 08:09 PM
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Originally Posted by SLP IROC-Z
one thing i forgot to mention is how much more my left rear tire is wearing than the right rear. my friends 01 with a moser 9 and detroit locker does the same thing. i get a lot more rubber on the bumper on the left side than the right. the axle is torquing real bad lifting that right rear and planting the left rear, what will cure this?

Just saw this while reading the thread. Not to try to hijack but mine is doing the same thing as you described. It's a 9'' narrowed 3 inches per side with a locker as well. Anyone have any ideas what causes this? thanks
Old 09-19-2011, 08:20 PM
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spool. dont look back.
Old 09-22-2011, 09:49 AM
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Originally Posted by transbird95
Just saw this while reading the thread. Not to try to hijack but mine is doing the same thing as you described. It's a 9'' narrowed 3 inches per side with a locker as well. Anyone have any ideas what causes this? thanks
torque planting the left rear and taking weight off the right.

my left rear tire is slick, right rear has 3/32 left. drag bar or air bags should take care of it. helped my buddies 01 ss out alot
Old 09-22-2011, 09:52 AM
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went to the track last night with the 4.30s, they definitly helped the car out. ran 12.546 @ 109.31. DA was around sea level.

Last edited by SLP IROC-Z; 09-22-2011 at 09:58 AM.
Old 09-22-2011, 09:55 AM
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Originally Posted by SLP IROC-Z
just put some miles on my new centersection, the 4.30s feel awesome, big difference from the 4.11s! gotta get her broken in and get up to the track!.
Nice! That's what I like to hear.. my buddy has 4.11s and it didn't seem like it shifted any faster than my 3.42s. I opted for 4.30s in my new MWC 9.
Old 09-22-2011, 09:59 AM
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Originally Posted by djfury05
Nice! That's what I like to hear.. my buddy has 4.11s and it didn't seem like it shifted any faster than my 3.42s. I opted for 4.30s in my new MWC 9.
gotta go big or bog with the mn6 t56!
Old 09-22-2011, 10:06 AM
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Originally Posted by SLP IROC-Z
gotta go big or bog with the mn6 t56!
Its still gonna bog slightly with the 4.30s if I dead hook.. but I'm probably going to be running 28" 10.5 Hoosier QTPs and they'll spin a little making up for the bog. In any case it will be a huge improvement over my 3.42s.


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