need 6 speed drag racing advice
08-26-2011, 07:46 AM
#21
The 300whp isn't helping, your getting parts to work around low power like that.
So your max power is 5600 5800.. SI? You run 26 tires all the time, I thing you can go to a bunch more gear, and would help a ton for the motor getting pulled down with the car out that far. How high can you spin a SI, and not have valve train problems? Like spin it to 6200 if possible,if you want to go faster with the same power and setup. Looks like your crossing the line with a bunch of more rpms left. With the right gear/tire on a t56 you should be in 4th a lot sooner then you.
26s and 4.11's with 300whp I think a change will be most to gain for you. get on the gear ration chart and figure out how much more gear you can run.
So your max power is 5600 5800.. SI? You run 26 tires all the time, I thing you can go to a bunch more gear, and would help a ton for the motor getting pulled down with the car out that far. How high can you spin a SI, and not have valve train problems? Like spin it to 6200 if possible,if you want to go faster with the same power and setup. Looks like your crossing the line with a bunch of more rpms left. With the right gear/tire on a t56 you should be in 4th a lot sooner then you.
26s and 4.11's with 300whp I think a change will be most to gain for you. get on the gear ration chart and figure out how much more gear you can run.
08-26-2011, 12:17 PM
#22
The 300whp isn't helping, your getting parts to work around low power like that.
So your max power is 5600 5800.. SI? You run 26 tires all the time, I thing you can go to a bunch more gear, and would help a ton for the motor getting pulled down with the car out that far. How high can you spin a SI, and not have valve train problems? Like spin it to 6200 if possible,if you want to go faster with the same power and setup. Looks like your crossing the line with a bunch of more rpms left. With the right gear/tire on a t56 you should be in 4th a lot sooner then you.
26s and 4.11's with 300whp I think a change will be most to gain for you. get on the gear ration chart and figure out how much more gear you can run.
So your max power is 5600 5800.. SI? You run 26 tires all the time, I thing you can go to a bunch more gear, and would help a ton for the motor getting pulled down with the car out that far. How high can you spin a SI, and not have valve train problems? Like spin it to 6200 if possible,if you want to go faster with the same power and setup. Looks like your crossing the line with a bunch of more rpms left. With the right gear/tire on a t56 you should be in 4th a lot sooner then you.
26s and 4.11's with 300whp I think a change will be most to gain for you. get on the gear ration chart and figure out how much more gear you can run.
08-26-2011, 02:13 PM
#24
Launching!
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Nice! What rpm was the 2-step set at?
You have a few issues going on. I ran a stock bolt on car for a few years and the stock clutch no matter what kind of shape will not grab on a clutch drop with a sticky tire. You need to datalog the engine RPM and vehicle speed to see this. When you launch the vehicle speed will slowly increase but the clutch is slipping which is indicated by the higher rpm when you launch. The engine rpm slowly catches the actual speed and catches causing it to bog. The cure is a few different things, more gear, better clutch with a stock or maybe even slightly heavier than stock flywheel and a better tire like a slick or bias ply to take a higher RPM hit.
You were complaining about the rearend twist which is caused by the engine torqueing the rear counter clockwise if viewing from behind which is wasted energy. The cure for this is a drag bar! Here is a video of my 403 launching on a 150 shot with a 3.89 gear 28x10.5 slick and a drag bar. Notice the rearend doesnt twist on the launch. This is a 1.39 60'
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VODpzrTZafg
You were complaining about the rearend twist which is caused by the engine torqueing the rear counter clockwise if viewing from behind which is wasted energy. The cure for this is a drag bar! Here is a video of my 403 launching on a 150 shot with a 3.89 gear 28x10.5 slick and a drag bar. Notice the rearend doesnt twist on the launch. This is a 1.39 60'
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VODpzrTZafg
08-26-2011, 10:28 PM
#26
08-27-2011, 12:24 AM
#27
TECH Fanatic
Mine does not drag my rpm's down because i run a bias ply, my speed sensor shows 30ish mph from launch till the car finally gets up to speed, around 4900 rpm's. I launch at 4500. I hate radials on my car, its no fun with them. It would take alot of work to figure out how to get them to work on my car if i could get them to work. Its a night and day difference running a radial vs bias ply for me.
I say puck style cause i have had problems with a full faced before but that just might have been who made it!
I cut 1.5x 60 ft's all day at the track too. My qa1's fixed the consistency problems i was having on the launch. Mine also needs a drag bar pretty bad.
08-27-2011, 09:31 AM
#28
Launching!
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Uhhh, no thats pretty much the opposite of what it sounds like. It's hooking so well it's bogging the car.
There is one simple thing here with an M6, launch higher. Launch as high as the tires will hold, and gear it so that it doesn't bog.
A set of 4.30's will make it roll out a little easier.
There is one simple thing here with an M6, launch higher. Launch as high as the tires will hold, and gear it so that it doesn't bog.
A set of 4.30's will make it roll out a little easier.
Also, ditch the drag radials... Fast manual cars dont use them.
You need to be able to keep some driveshaft rotation / slip out of the hole to keep from bogging so bad. Slicks can be slipping yet still cut an awesome 60.
Once a drag radial breaks loose it's not going to recover very well.
You need to be able to keep some driveshaft rotation / slip out of the hole to keep from bogging so bad. Slicks can be slipping yet still cut an awesome 60.
Once a drag radial breaks loose it's not going to recover very well.
Here's one of them.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FJed6iGzEdk
Just stirring the pot.
08-27-2011, 03:21 PM
#30
yup you guys are definitly right about the drag bar, never thought id need one this soon, check out that vid i posted, hangin the left front.
i would really like to keep running drag radials, im afraid bias plys are going to slow me down at the top end of the track. going from 18psi down to 16psi will slow the car down a mph/tenth. that is a concern for me. im a big fan of hoosier quick time pros and will run them if i absolutely have to but im willing to spend more time and money to make the radials work.
going to ditch the 4.11s and step up to 4.30s.
anyone have any experience with the ram vds and a solid sintered disc?
i would really like to keep running drag radials, im afraid bias plys are going to slow me down at the top end of the track. going from 18psi down to 16psi will slow the car down a mph/tenth. that is a concern for me. im a big fan of hoosier quick time pros and will run them if i absolutely have to but im willing to spend more time and money to make the radials work.
going to ditch the 4.11s and step up to 4.30s.
anyone have any experience with the ram vds and a solid sintered disc?
08-27-2011, 03:31 PM
#31
Launching!
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Robz's car has a slipper type clutch with some of the components being sintered iron and was driven on the street but needed to be adjusted. (Many sintered iron clutches have a high coefficient of friction and may be more difficult on the street.) I actually drove it and it had very good street manners for an N/A car. (The ITB was part of what made it streetable.)
That being said, this type of clutch is not for the faint of heart. Persistence and perseverance come to mind.
That being said, this type of clutch is not for the faint of heart. Persistence and perseverance come to mind. Last edited by GARY2004Z06; 08-27-2011 at 03:37 PM.
08-27-2011, 03:47 PM
#32
Launching!
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If you do not mind spending money on a clutch, you can run an RPS. We run the BC2 in the C6Z and have had excellent results. We have made several hundred passes, driven thousands of street miles, cut sixty's as low as 1.36 and launched over 6K with minimal wear. (Vette guys care about intervals between rebuilds since to do a clutch is such a PITA.) You would not need full carbon faces on every surface at your power level so you can opt for a less expensive variant. A lighter twin will put more power to the wheels and allow the engine to rev quicker. You can choose a steel or aluminum flywheel.
09-19-2011, 08:09 PM
#34
one thing i forgot to mention is how much more my left rear tire is wearing than the right rear. my friends 01 with a moser 9 and detroit locker does the same thing. i get a lot more rubber on the bumper on the left side than the right. the axle is torquing real bad lifting that right rear and planting the left rear, what will cure this?
Just saw this while reading the thread. Not to try to hijack but mine is doing the same thing as you described. It's a 9'' narrowed 3 inches per side with a locker as well. Anyone have any ideas what causes this? thanks
