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A little suspension help with my launch

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Old Aug 27, 2011 | 10:24 AM
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Default A little suspension help with my launch

My suspension is set up pretty close I'm assuming. The car doesnt blow the tires off, it just spins a little out of the whole then hooks. I can use my progressive nitrous controller to spread out the power and it will hook up good. But I am trying to set the car up to where I dont have to use the progressive. I'm sorry I dont have a video of the car. But its not blowing the tires off, its not hooking then unloading, it is just spinning a little off the line then hooking a few feet. I've gotten the car to 60' a 1.43 before, but lately it will 60' in the 1.5's I have adj lca's, 4 hole lca relocation brackets, adj short tq arm, drag bar, panhard bar, strange DA front shocks w/ 300# springs, comp engineering 3 way adj rear shocks w/ stock springs. My tires are hoosier stiff sidewall slicks 28x10.5.
The only really prep the local track one time for test n tune, unless somebody breaks so I know some of it is track prep.
So for the crap track prep I run my front shocks full loose on the extension side and all the way tight on the compression side. My rear shocks are set to 50/50, as tight as they can be. My lca's are in the 3rd hole down, they have a very slight angle from the body mount downward to the rearend mount. Lastly, I usually put 11lbs in my tires before the burnout. My car has a cam, intake, nitrous(200 hit), bolt ons, a 3600 stall, and a 9" rearend. I'm guessing my tires arent getting hit hard enough but I'm not sure the best way to go about getting them to hit harder. Do I need to move the lca's down to the last hole, or loosen the rear shocks to let the car transfer weight faster, or possibly both? Sorry this is so long, I just tried to list as much as possible to help as I dont have a vid. Any help and advise is GREATLY appreciated!!!
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Old Aug 28, 2011 | 08:55 AM
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Anybody? I could really use the help instead of just shooting in the dark.
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Old Aug 28, 2011 | 09:36 AM
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i really hate to be blunt but thats why they call it "test and tune". kinda sounds like u need to do a runday sunday, like they have down here.
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Old Aug 28, 2011 | 01:23 PM
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Originally Posted by bottlefed01z28
i really hate to be blunt but thats why they call it "test and tune". kinda sounds like u need to do a runday sunday, like they have down here.
Dude I have been testing and tuning forever now. Its the only time I can actually run my car because its to slow to compete in any classes here. I dont want to go out to the track and have my car up on jack stands and taking a shot in the dark and just start changing and adjusting stuff that might be fine how it is. A lot of people ask for help on here, to include yourself. Most of the time people are quick to help out and offer advise. I mean why would anybody even come on here to ask a question if thats all people are going to tell them, "thats why they call it test and tune." I know that is when and where to try new adjustments, I'm just asking what would be the best thing to adjust to get the car to really hook up.
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Old Aug 28, 2011 | 03:11 PM
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Yes u r right. I do ask for help every once in a while. But as far as my idea of a test and tune session goes. It involves bringing jacks, stands, tools, and even a helping hand. To try new senarios. Maybe u go faster maybe u go slower but the idea is you will never know until u try. Unfortunately there are so many different adjustments and so many different combinations tuning is going to take time, patience, and lots of tuning. I'm sorry if my information doesn't help but it's just my opinion.
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Old Aug 28, 2011 | 04:09 PM
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Not trying to be a dick, but I really hate that answer and you would to if you asked a question and somebody told you to just go to the track and start messing with it. You can use that answer to almost any question around here. I know testing requires me to take tools and jacks and what not to the track. I've been doing that for a while now. Everytime I go to the track I load my buddies truck up with tools, jacks, and stands. Like I said I have been testing for a while now, and have it set up real close. I'm just trying to get somebodies opinion on what else I am leaving out or not trying, not an answer like just go to the track and start messing with stuff and see how it turns out and hope you get it right. I like to do things right the first time, and not just guess at stuff.
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Old Aug 28, 2011 | 05:06 PM
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I have seen that your lca's should be at around 4 degrease downward from the body, I would check that to start
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Old Aug 28, 2011 | 07:17 PM
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s2n, try pulling some timing on the hit and then ramping it back in. I was spraying 250 on the hit with ZERO spin back in january. Now that I'm on 300 it spins a little, got to get mine back down in the 1.3s.
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Old Aug 28, 2011 | 07:43 PM
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Originally Posted by 95killerz
I have seen that your lca's should be at around 4 degrease downward from the body, I would check that to start
Ok, yeah they are deff not 4 degrees. I will move them to the lower hole and check the actual angle.
Originally Posted by Carter01
s2n, try pulling some timing on the hit and then ramping it back in. I was spraying 250 on the hit with ZERO spin back in january. Now that I'm on 300 it spins a little, got to get mine back down in the 1.3s.
That sounds cool, I didnt know you could do this until recently. I was told that I couldnt pull the timing and ramp it back in with the stock pcm, that I had to have a bigstuff3. I would love to get mine in the 1.3's but I really dont think I can without a bigger stall and a transbrake.
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Old Aug 29, 2011 | 01:03 AM
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Efilive has the capability to have a seperate timing table for boost or for nitrous then you have your normal timing table under a set kpa limit I think IIRC.
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Old Aug 29, 2011 | 07:45 AM
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Sweet, I will def look into that!
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