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some pointers for hooking on the street????

Old Sep 15, 2011 | 10:44 PM
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Default some pointers for hooking on the street????

my car doesent hook worth **** on concrete even with a good burnout...idk if im doing something majorly wrong or what...its only 324 horse to the tire...full bolt on car with SS4000 and 3.73 gears

Bigs n Littles with 275/50/15 ET street radials
adjustable short arm set to -1.5
all heim joint lower control arms/pan hard bar with relocation brakets
Anti-roll bar
strang SA front and rear, 275lb springs in front

idk if its the tires...everytime i burnout or anything it seems like they just feather really bad...and maybe thats why it spins...maybe a water burnout ? usually people hook pretty good on this concrete where the races go down but i cant seem to figure it out
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Old Sep 15, 2011 | 10:47 PM
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prep the road and launch in your burnout...a line lock will help here...

also for the street a slick is way more forgiving...a drag radial will not recover...
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Old Sep 15, 2011 | 11:20 PM
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You can't hook w ET Streets!? Are they old?? Lower air pressure some
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Old Sep 15, 2011 | 11:44 PM
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Go up a hole higher with the torque arm if you can it will make it bite harder off the line.
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Old Sep 16, 2011 | 07:13 AM
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a hole higher will give it LESS pinion angle...and i gave it more pinion angle already and it hooked alot better...i just need to learn the right burnout so it doesent feather the tires i think
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Old Sep 16, 2011 | 07:48 AM
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Originally Posted by 00blacka4
a hole higher will give it LESS pinion angle...and i gave it more pinion angle already and it hooked alot better...i just need to learn the right burnout so it doesent feather the tires i think
^ And this is the reason why you cant hook.
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Old Sep 16, 2011 | 07:56 AM
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Surface temp and prep has big to do with "hooking". IF you could pre-prep, some PIMP Juice or even some VHT would do wonders. IF not able you can look at things like a 2 Step so you can limit your launch.

Automatics do not a great deal of driving skill but knowing the car helps and knowing how the car acts on the street, you can still do a great deal with foot breaking.
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Old Sep 16, 2011 | 08:57 AM
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Originally Posted by chrs1313
prep the road and launch in your burnout...a line lock will help here...

also for the street a slick is way more forgiving...a drag radial will not recover...
^ What he said

What tire pressure are you using?
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Old Sep 16, 2011 | 09:53 AM
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Originally Posted by 00blacka4
a hole higher will give it LESS pinion angle...and i gave it more pinion angle already and it hooked alot better...i just need to learn the right burnout so it doesent feather the tires i think
The higher up the front of the torque arm goes on my car the harder it hooks and the higher the front tires lift. Just my experience.
May be that my MadMan geometry is a little different than your torque arm.

Last edited by WS6HUMMER; Sep 16, 2011 at 10:03 AM.
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Old Oct 15, 2011 | 09:11 PM
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get 4wd
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Old Oct 15, 2011 | 10:10 PM
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roll out a lil before u get in the throttle i do not do burnouts on the street and dead hook . just takes a little practice.how much pressure do you run in your tire?
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Old Oct 17, 2011 | 01:27 PM
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I run my 275/60/15 M&H DR's at 17psi, no burnout, mash gas off idle and car dead hooks on the street. I just played with the pinion angle, tire pressure, and launch till I found what worked for my car.
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Old Oct 17, 2011 | 02:11 PM
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Way too short of a gear/tire and a lot of converter is most of your problem...along with a probably poorly prepped or not prepped at all street
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Old Oct 18, 2011 | 08:32 PM
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Go with taller tire like protree said ur tires are to short for the gears and stall that should fix ur problem u could do 70% vht and 30% alcohol I wouldn't do water cause the street ain't prep and mostly just for slicks cause Ull be spinning more with street tires
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Old Oct 18, 2011 | 08:37 PM
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But try the vht with alcohol mixture first and heat them tires up and line back up on the line
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Old Oct 19, 2011 | 09:04 PM
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That's allot of stall... Taller tire, or a Bias Ply tire.

Put the tq arm up as high as it'll go... usually there's only 2 holes, top one will bite harder.

LCA's should be level to the ground, ditch the Relocation brackets. Relocation brackets are great on the street, love them to increase handling, but they're ***** **** for making a car hook. Just a tad higher on the sub frame compared to the axle, almost flat is about right.

Pinion angle varies per car; on ZR1's with 315/35/17 mine is -1, on my 27" Hooser's it's -2.5 Don't get hung up on it.

Ditch your front sway bar if you haven't or just remove one of the links before racing.

I have a feeling you're stalling the car up, holding the brakes...

Leave off idle... if you're stalling the car up and you feel it transfer weight raising the *** end you're transferring weight to the front tires, which then has to transfer back to the rear tires.

BEST THING YOU CAN DO: Read the suspension posts by MAD MAN and keep trying different adjustments. I don't have a single product of his, but his suspension **** is spot ******* on, doesn't get any better.
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Old Jul 9, 2012 | 06:31 PM
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Originally Posted by KC&97TA
I have a feeling you're stalling the car up, holding the brakes...

Leave off idle... if you're stalling the car up and you feel it transfer weight raising the *** end you're transferring weight to the front tires, which then has to transfer back to the rear tires.
I have the same major problem - can't hook at all (best is 1.83s 60') on 28x11.5 MT Slicks. On the vids when I bring the revs up while footbraking, the rear raises up considerably - is it bad?
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Old Jul 10, 2012 | 02:09 PM
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Originally Posted by KC&97TA
Leave off idle... if you're stalling the car up and you feel it transfer weight raising the *** end you're transferring weight to the front tires, which then has to transfer back to the rear tires.
This makes me imagine a see-saw. Kid A transfers the weight to Kid B, which then has to transfer it back to Kid A before the "launch".

Al
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Old Jul 10, 2012 | 07:32 PM
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Originally Posted by JL ws-6
get rid of the pinion angle, all that does is create a mechanical bind in the driveline.

You're saying take the torque arm out completely?
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Old Jul 10, 2012 | 08:03 PM
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no he is saying leave the pinion angle at 0 or straight frm drive shaft to rear. i think.
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