Why are my wheel studs getting destroyed
The season is pretty much over I don't know if the track will even have another test and tune. But I will be sending my wrench out to have it checked and using more torque on the wheels when installing. Now is there any difference in the nuts them selves? I just got a set from napa and was using those.
I'm using the same studs and haven't had a issue with breaking them. I always torque my wheels to 100ft lbs
6 speed car, 3850 raceweight, 28'' et drags, 6k launches, 1.52' 60 foot.
Now I do have a issue with those little ******* staying tight (as far as the entire stud wanting to screw out) I could see if you have that issues to where you think your tightening the lug but the stud screws out a bit, at first I never use to notice but it happens so much I can tell when a stud spun a few turns and not the actual lug.
6 speed car, 3850 raceweight, 28'' et drags, 6k launches, 1.52' 60 foot.
Now I do have a issue with those little ******* staying tight (as far as the entire stud wanting to screw out) I could see if you have that issues to where you think your tightening the lug but the stud screws out a bit, at first I never use to notice but it happens so much I can tell when a stud spun a few turns and not the actual lug.
Because lets be honest, lug nuts today don't have to follow some great guide line and the threads probably are not the truest. That is also why some lug nuts are .30 cents each and some are as much as $10.00 each. You get what you pay for and in this instance lug nuts are greatly over looked.
The season is pretty much over I don't know if the track will even have another test and tune. But I will be sending my wrench out to have it checked and using more torque on the wheels when installing. Now is there any difference in the nuts them selves? I just got a set from napa and was using those.
Assuming you are using locktite on the threads were they are in the flange correct? Also something most do not do that will help is don't be afraid to use a little anti seize on the studs themselves. It will keep the threads from buggering up which will in theory help with torquing them down the same all the way around because one won't be hanging up more on the threads than others.
Because lets be honest, lug nuts today don't have to follow some great guide line and the threads probably are not the truest. That is also why some lug nuts are .30 cents each and some are as much as $10.00 each. You get what you pay for and in this instance lug nuts are greatly over looked.
Because lets be honest, lug nuts today don't have to follow some great guide line and the threads probably are not the truest. That is also why some lug nuts are .30 cents each and some are as much as $10.00 each. You get what you pay for and in this instance lug nuts are greatly over looked.
good to know about the studs, I've heard and learned from working in tire shops in the past not to use anything on the studs because it affects wheel tq and can lead to under tightening or over tightening of the lugs.
I used red loctite since that's what strange said to use and it holds them great. And when I install lug nuts or any other nut or bolt it usually gets some anti-sieze and yes I used it on these studs. It's very rare that the torque values given by manufacturers are a "dry" torque value. So I always lube them up to keep from galling threads. And to the guys at MWC thank you for being so helpful I do t know if it's been Jason or Eric that has been replying.
I haven't touched the studs since they were installed by strange. When they back out a bit I usually hand tighten them and continue to put the lug on. Once I know the lug is tight I know the stud won't go anywhere since there reverse thread. I think this winter I will take the brakes off and look at them. What strength lock tite do you recommend?
good to know about the studs, I've heard and learned from working in tire shops in the past not to use anything on the studs because it affects wheel tq and can lead to under tightening or over tightening of the lugs.
good to know about the studs, I've heard and learned from working in tire shops in the past not to use anything on the studs because it affects wheel tq and can lead to under tightening or over tightening of the lugs.
When I had 12mm studs(stock size) I had one let go in the pit as I was putting my left rear wheel on. Went home and replaced it and returned the next weekend and sheared the same side all 5 on launch and the car went faster than the left rear tire. That was a pucker experience. But I'll be upgrading to a 5/8 stud for next season so I know of a good deal on a set of camaro 5 spokes with hoosier QTPs on them lol.
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Since the studs are screw in are y ou getting them tight into the axle? If not then you will never get them tightened down on the wheel.
If the stud isn't torqued it is basicaly floating and as you "tighten" the lug nut it is actualy tightening the stud and not getting you a proper torque.
Might not be your problem but wanted to point this out.
If the stud isn't torqued it is basicaly floating and as you "tighten" the lug nut it is actualy tightening the stud and not getting you a proper torque.
Might not be your problem but wanted to point this out.
I think my problem is the weight and it's a 6spd car. But I torqued them in the axle flange and used red loctite for lube and since that's what the manufacturer says to do. Damn car is just hard on parts I guess.
I torque my billet specialties street lites to 65lb's and I don't torque my street wheels (just snug them up).
Then give me some ideas. Is it the two step? Is it my locker? I know the car puts a ton of stress on components with it's power level or lack there of I should say. So what else can it be
I haven't touched the studs since they were installed by strange. When they back out a bit I usually hand tighten them and continue to put the lug on. Once I know the lug is tight I know the stud won't go anywhere since there reverse thread. I think this winter I will take the brakes off and look at them. What strength lock tite do you recommend?
good to know about the studs, I've heard and learned from working in tire shops in the past not to use anything on the studs because it affects wheel tq and can lead to under tightening or over tightening of the lugs.
good to know about the studs, I've heard and learned from working in tire shops in the past not to use anything on the studs because it affects wheel tq and can lead to under tightening or over tightening of the lugs.
As for the anti-seize, they could be correct it may be wrong but people will always differ in opinion and what it comes down to you have to trust and do what works best for you. I like the fact my lugs go on and off a little easier.
Fwiw... I usually put a tiny dab of grease on the end of studs just so the lugnuts have something to lubricate them during installation. I don't have any issues with anything loosening up.
Last rear I had in the car had 5/8 thread in studs, lockwasher on the back of them. I put some green loctite on them when they were installed... and they have never loosened up on me. Green is the permanent bonding agent.. it can be broken loose but it usually takes a little heat, or ALOT of force.
Critical parts I really don't want backing out, like that, or the bolts that hold the tq arm bracket on a 12 bolt, get the green loctite always. And... they generally never give me trouble.
Last rear I had in the car had 5/8 thread in studs, lockwasher on the back of them. I put some green loctite on them when they were installed... and they have never loosened up on me. Green is the permanent bonding agent.. it can be broken loose but it usually takes a little heat, or ALOT of force.
Critical parts I really don't want backing out, like that, or the bolts that hold the tq arm bracket on a 12 bolt, get the green loctite always. And... they generally never give me trouble.
Does the car wheel hop at all?
1Badair had an issue breaking d/s studs - might want to pm him and see how he fixed it.
Tubular lower control arms from umi with poly ends set to lowest hole on relocation brackets, no wheel hop, mwc tq arm, umi on car adjustable panhard bar, kyb agx single adjustable shocks, Strano springs all the way around. Rotors fit very nicely and are from ebc. These ones didn't break just got bent/twisted after 10 passes. Now the 12mm ones that broke snapped just just below where they exit the flange about one thread. And thanks I will shoot him a pm
Tubular lower control arms from umi with poly ends set to lowest hole on relocation brackets, no wheel hop, mwc tq arm, umi on car adjustable panhard bar, kyb agx single adjustable shocks, Strano springs all the way around. Rotors fit very nicely and are from ebc. These ones didn't break just got bent/twisted after 10 passes. Now the 12mm ones that broke snapped just just below where they exit the flange about one thread. And thanks I will shoot him a pm
i didnt break any. I was bending the left sides after a few passes. mid 1.4's 6 speed 3950lbs.
I bend the 12mm moser ones then the arp's also
Even after putting a spool in it still bent them . It appears that adding the spohn ARB fixed the issue. Probably have 50 or more pass's now without issue.
I always torque to 100ft lbs
I bend the 12mm moser ones then the arp's also
Even after putting a spool in it still bent them . It appears that adding the spohn ARB fixed the issue. Probably have 50 or more pass's now without issue.
I always torque to 100ft lbs
