99french

iTrader: (7)

So I launch the car at 5200 off of my two step. It's a 6 speed with a monster 3 clutch, 400rwhp and 365rwtq, wieghs 3800 lbs with me and fuel in it, I am using a Hoosier quick time pro 28/11.5 on a 16" wheel and I run 18psi in them. I am using the strange screw in 1/2" wheel studs, I recently sheared the left side studs off at the track and upgraded to the 1/2 since I was still using metric ones. I just don't get why I am twisting them. Is it my tire that I run with the 4:11 gears I just don't get why I am killing these wheel studs. My best time for the night was 11.75 with a 1.67 60ft and then I was stuck in the 11:8xx for the rest of the night with a slow decline as the track got cold and went away. But again why am I killing these it's an all motor car with no power adders. I'm hoping I don't have to do a 5/8 stud since new wheels will have to be bought for the rear. So what's every ones thoughts

Firehawk441

iTrader: (41)

Manual transmissions are much harder on drivetrain parts then Autos. Heavy cars with manual trannys is even worse.

Zmg00camaross

iTrader: (11)

Just make sure the nuts are tight check torque on them after a few runs. But the heavy car is killing it probly. I have been in the 1.5 60ft with a m6 and 1/2 studs but weigh 3380 raceweight right now. I am sure ppl 60ft harder with 1/2 studs.

Cam72aro

iTrader: (28)

What style of lugnuts? How much of the threads are in the lugnut? What type of wheel?

99french

iTrader: (7)

Stock 5 spoke camaro wheel. Full engagement since u have a 3 in stud and a factory style lug nut. I retorque after two or three passes to 82 ft lbs.

flintwrench69

iTrader: (11)

I would try at least 90 ft lb. Thats how tight mine are, stock lugs & no problems. Where did you get the 82 from?

99french

iTrader: (7)

Strange engineering said for a factory alloy wheel I only needed 80-85 pounds. So I chose 82

MidwestChassis

iTrader: (5)

Just to ask some silly questions to see if we can come up with anything to help you out.

We know it is a stock 5 spoke wheel but is it a GM wheel or after market stock style wheel?

This uses an acorn style nut correct?

Are you running any type of wheel spacer?

These press in or screw in studs?

Is this a stock axle or after market axle?

Still running stock brake rotor?

wws699

iTrader: (3)

I've seen auto cars sheer good wheel studs off too.

Might want to try a different lug nut.

Acorn style with a shank

http://t2.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:A...NEoHuGWcw-NjYm

99french

iTrader: (7)

It is a GM wheel. These are the screw in studs in the strange 31 spline axles. I am actually using a MWC fab 9" with a Yukon grizzly locker. I am still using a stock replacement rotor. And they are an scorn style lug nut. And I am not using any sort of wheel spacer. Actually I just called mwc about a week ago and talked to Eric about my wheel hop. And he helped me get rid of it just now my studs are poop. Strange is standing behind them even if they check out ok. So I am just trying to get to the bottom of the issue

Slowhawk

iTrader: (12)

We always torque factory wheels to 100ft/lbs. Never sheered any studs.

99french

iTrader: (7)

Would my torque value be the reason why the 1/2 studs are all twisted.

Mighty Whitey

The tensile strength of those 1/2" studs are stronger than the 12mm factory stuff, so you can safely torque them down tighter.

99french

iTrader: (7)

I have no problem with going tighter but will it keep the next set from twisting or is it a gamble.

Slowhawk

iTrader: (12)

Only thing I can see is the torque. I launch a hell of alot harder and a ton of passes and never had a wheel stud problem. Factory lugnuts and all.

94FBIRD

iTrader: (5)

Hell, even stock GM recommended torque in the owner's manual is 100ft/lbsfor 'obviously' stock wheels, studs and lugs. You're not torquing yours down enough.

99french

iTrader: (7)

Thanks guys I feel tarded having to ask these questions but I was going by info given to me by strange which is who makes the studs I use. I'll be popping these things out and taking them to strange come Monday hopefully. Then I'll have to wait till next season to see if they hold up. But thanks again to all who replied and if anyone else has opinions or some sorta idea don't be shy

MidwestChassis

iTrader: (5)

Looks like you got it figured out and I agree with the others I would torque them down more. I also check mine before every pass when I am checking tire pressure in the pits every pass now but I would suggest doing it a couple times in the day while racing.

When was the last time you had your wrench checked to make sure it is actually doing what it is supposed to be doing?

Old Geezer

iTrader: (3)

The engineers at Strange should be able to determine what's the cause, when they look at the failed parts...I'd do that B4 I just tried another set...

SmokedOutZ28

iTrader: (35)

I'm using the same studs and haven't had a issue with breaking them. I always torque my wheels to 100ft lbs

6 speed car, 3850 raceweight, 28'' et drags, 6k launches, 1.52' 60 foot.

Now I do have a issue with those little ******* staying tight (as far as the entire stud wanting to screw out) I could see if you have that issues to where you think your tightening the lug but the stud screws out a bit, at first I never use to notice but it happens so much I can tell when a stud spun a few turns and not the actual lug.