Why are my wheel studs getting destroyed
I still have the factory trans am sway bar and not the ws6 sway bar. And a sway bar is cheaper in the long run than a set of studs if it fixes my issue. Just want to figure the issue out before I just band aid the situation
I'm using the same studs and haven't had a issue with breaking them. I always torque my wheels to 100ft lbs
6 speed car, 3850 raceweight, 28'' et drags, 6k launches, 1.52' 60 foot.
Now I do have a issue with those little ******* staying tight (as far as the entire stud wanting to screw out) I could see if you have that issues to where you think your tightening the lug but the stud screws out a bit, at first I never use to notice but it happens so much I can tell when a stud spun a few turns and not the actual lug.
6 speed car, 3850 raceweight, 28'' et drags, 6k launches, 1.52' 60 foot.
Now I do have a issue with those little ******* staying tight (as far as the entire stud wanting to screw out) I could see if you have that issues to where you think your tightening the lug but the stud screws out a bit, at first I never use to notice but it happens so much I can tell when a stud spun a few turns and not the actual lug.
. I was using the 1/2 inch screw-ins from strange that came with my race brake setup. If the studs back out while tightening the lugs it will cause them to break very easily because they aren't seated properly. Even at stock power levels you will snap them. I would locktite them at the back and put a small dap of grease inside the lug to prevent them from twisting the stud back out while tightening. It also wouldn't hurt to check the studs once you have the wheels on just to make sure none of them backed out. At least this is what I plan to do from now on, an once of prevention can go a long way in a case like this. Well after talking with many shops and all this was my and their conclusion.
1.) stop using the anti sieze as the lug nut torque value strange gives is a "dry torque" value and therefore don't use lube
2.) weight is a problem and the acorn style may not be supporting it enough so I am switching to a mag shank style lug nut and this means I am doing new wheels and I picked up some draglites for cheap.
Now I have never had a problem with them backing out since I would use the red loctite as per strange engineering's instructions since the install of the studs to the flange is a "wet" torque value. The red loctite dries in the abscense of air/oxygen. I also had my torque wrench calibration verified as well.
Hopefully I can get my cage installed this year and get some new slicks and let everyone know if my theories work for me
1.) stop using the anti sieze as the lug nut torque value strange gives is a "dry torque" value and therefore don't use lube
2.) weight is a problem and the acorn style may not be supporting it enough so I am switching to a mag shank style lug nut and this means I am doing new wheels and I picked up some draglites for cheap.
Now I have never had a problem with them backing out since I would use the red loctite as per strange engineering's instructions since the install of the studs to the flange is a "wet" torque value. The red loctite dries in the abscense of air/oxygen. I also had my torque wrench calibration verified as well.
Hopefully I can get my cage installed this year and get some new slicks and let everyone know if my theories work for me
Findings and results They were meeting their demise due to the 6spd shock and having acorn lug nuts. I picked up some racestars this winter and they use a mag shank lugnut which help support and protect the stud. Plus the lube didn't help since they are a dry torque. Feel free to comment here or pm me in the future if anyone has questions.
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Joined: Dec 2011
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This is my opinion only!
When you use an Acorn Nut, the Stud from the edge of the nut all the way to the Hub Flange leaves the Stud unsupported~! This can induce a small amount of flexing as its easier to twist an empty box then a full one, as a metaphor! With a Shanked lug nut, you are supporting more of the Stud and the unsupported distance from the edge of the Lug Nut to the Hub Flange is greatly reduced. Therefore, a much stronger situation is created. In addition, you have more of the torque force spread over a 1.75" minimum Stud/Nut Thread Engagement compared to say 1" of thread engagement with a typical Acorn Style Lug Nut! I think one reason you see so many "Race Cars" use the 5/8" Stud is because it is large enough to over come the stresses put on it simply due to its size and can accommodate non-shanked Lug Nuts!
One other thing about Torquing Any Fasteners, make sure your torque wrench is Calibrated and of good quality! What you may think is 100ft/lbs maybe 90 or 110 ft/lbs!
Joe
When you use an Acorn Nut, the Stud from the edge of the nut all the way to the Hub Flange leaves the Stud unsupported~! This can induce a small amount of flexing as its easier to twist an empty box then a full one, as a metaphor! With a Shanked lug nut, you are supporting more of the Stud and the unsupported distance from the edge of the Lug Nut to the Hub Flange is greatly reduced. Therefore, a much stronger situation is created. In addition, you have more of the torque force spread over a 1.75" minimum Stud/Nut Thread Engagement compared to say 1" of thread engagement with a typical Acorn Style Lug Nut! I think one reason you see so many "Race Cars" use the 5/8" Stud is because it is large enough to over come the stresses put on it simply due to its size and can accommodate non-shanked Lug Nuts!
One other thing about Torquing Any Fasteners, make sure your torque wrench is Calibrated and of good quality! What you may think is 100ft/lbs maybe 90 or 110 ft/lbs!
Joe
Last edited by StraightTimeStirrups; Sep 25, 2012 at 07:29 PM. Reason: typos
I never knew or thought about it till I had the reoccurring problem. And u did searching and wanted to share my experience. And strait time hit it on the head with the rest of valuable information. It's a little thing that's over looked in my opinion. Hopefully I can save some head ache for some other fellow enthusiasts
I didn't read every post. Did the car wheel hop on every set of studs you had problems with? I had a similar problem and as soon as I got it to stop wheel hopping and replaced the studs I never had a problem again.
