JK, please share the knowledge tho 
Head studs or head bolts????
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Head studs or head bolts???? Getting ready to put my new motor together and Im debating weather to switch up to head studs over head bolts. Are studs that much better and can you actually pull a head with the engine in the car and our extra huge cowl with the studs?
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Ran ARP bolts for years, no issues, on the 383, just goop them and go. Never ran studs as of the PITA to try to get the heads on and off all the time if the need be it. Just did not want to deal with it.
And when you pull the heads you don't have to clean the holes out, and worry about water/coolant being in the holes... and then you putting the bolt in there, and unknowingly cracking the block (liquid won't compress.. and the force will crack a block if you don't get the holes 100% dry. Seen that happen before)
And when you pull the heads you don't have to clean the holes out, and worry about water/coolant being in the holes... and then you putting the bolt in there, and unknowingly cracking the block (liquid won't compress.. and the force will crack a block if you don't get the holes 100% dry. Seen that happen before)
The clamping ability of the stud, is also alot better and they are reusable, quite a few times more then a bolt is... the cost vs return just in the ability to reuse them over bolts makes it worth while.
Removing the heads on any small block in an ls engine bay is not a problem with studs.
Removing the heads on any small block in an ls engine bay is not a problem with studs.
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11 Second Club
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From: Chicago area
I have ARP bolts on my 355 I was going to just reuse but I ordered studs for the new 383 anyways.
This is a iron LT1 engine. Most of the head bolt holes go into the water jackets except the top 4 so cracking the block do to water being in there really isnt an issue.
This is a iron LT1 engine. Most of the head bolt holes go into the water jackets except the top 4 so cracking the block do to water being in there really isnt an issue.
