looseing oil pressure on launch
I used to notice a slight drop with my old setup, it only held about 5.75 qts to the full mark. When my clutch exploded and I went to a 6.0L block, I got a new oil pan with it. It looked at first just like a regular f body oil pan, but it holds about 1 extra qt. I'll have to look up the part number but it holds almost 7 qts.. I have not noticed the issue since... I also have the melling hv, high pressure pump and it see's about 90Psi @ 8000 rpm In first.
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From: Rochester, NY
thats charile, ya I'd like to see any pics of your setup. The bellhosuing, the room you have to work under there, the acc, holes in it.
BadSS what was the NEW oil pan? the deep truck one? I would think that would hang really low.
BadSS what was the NEW oil pan? the deep truck one? I would think that would hang really low.
doesnt hang noticably lower than the stock pan.
I think the aluminum pan is made to clear a factory k member.
steel or aluminum? My pan is the steel swap pan, they do make an aluminum one that I think hold 1 extra qt. I ordered both pans and my engine builder said if I got room on the k member to run the swap pan. so we checked fitment, and I am running the steel pan.
I think the aluminum pan is made to clear a factory k member.
I think the aluminum pan is made to clear a factory k member.
Badd is it cast or fabricated?
Bes,the swap pan is nice, because it's 1/2 the price of the alum one, so if you do dent it up on a hard landing it's alot less painful to replace.
And alot easier to repair if you get in a pinch.
Bes,the swap pan is nice, because it's 1/2 the price of the alum one, so if you do dent it up on a hard landing it's alot less painful to replace.
And alot easier to repair if you get in a pinch.
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From: Rochester, NY
(pocket bike accident)
again, this is the pan I got.http://www.jegs.com/i/Moroso/710/201...oductId=763991
this should be the pan he has. http://www.jegs.com/i/Moroso/710/211...oductId=763991
again, this is the pan I got.http://www.jegs.com/i/Moroso/710/201...oductId=763991
again, this is the pan I got.http://www.jegs.com/i/Moroso/710/201...oductId=763991
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From: Rochester, NY
http://www.jegs.com/i/Holley/510/302-1/10002/-1
the holley one, looks like the pickup in in the front of the sump?
Same with the MAST pan
http://www.mastmotorsports.com/2010/..._pan_views.pdf
More pics of the GM swap pan. I guess its fits the "LH8" chassis thats the H3 it looks like.
http://www.jegs.com/i/GM+Performance...12593/10002/-1
http://www.superchevyperformance.com...p/19212593.htm
This oil pan kit is based on the Hummer H3 V* oil pan and will work in virtually all 1955-1995 GM front engine RWD (rear wheel drive) V-8 cars when used with an LS engine.
http://paceperformance.com/i-6255531...-nova-etc.html
http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/showthread.php?t=187528
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=823769
Looks like it hangs down to low. I dont wnat the pan lower then the headers, and mt TA mount (BMR relo) thata for sure
the holley one, looks like the pickup in in the front of the sump?
Same with the MAST pan
http://www.mastmotorsports.com/2010/..._pan_views.pdf
More pics of the GM swap pan. I guess its fits the "LH8" chassis thats the H3 it looks like.
http://www.jegs.com/i/GM+Performance...12593/10002/-1
http://www.superchevyperformance.com...p/19212593.htm
This oil pan kit is based on the Hummer H3 V* oil pan and will work in virtually all 1955-1995 GM front engine RWD (rear wheel drive) V-8 cars when used with an LS engine.
http://paceperformance.com/i-6255531...-nova-etc.html
http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/showthread.php?t=187528
I agree with you on the acceptable risk of the pan hanging below the crossmember on a track only (or mostly track) car. Like you, I've seen lots of old school deep oil pans that hang well below the cross member. For what it's worth, I'll be running a Hummer H3 Pan though. It offers just a tad more ground clearance as opposed to the standard truck pan, and more importantly, more clearance directly behind the crossmember. I got the new pan, gasket, bolts, pickup tube (with o-ring), windage tray, dipstick and dipstick tube all for $150.00. Just another option for you. Here's a comparison shot with a truck pan(Hummer pan on top).
The LH8 (H3 5.3L) pan is almost the same depth as the truck pans. It just doesn't have the kick out in front of the sump. And the baffling isn't much better than the trucks but its cheap!
LH8 pan
GM PART # 19212593
CATEGORY: Engine Oil Pan/Reinforcement
PACK QTY: 1
GM parts Direct Price:$131.04
Most dealers are little more than that but around the same. GM parts direct will rape you with shipping!
Here's the LH8 vs regular truck pan (clean on is the LH8 pan)
LH8 pan
GM PART # 19212593
CATEGORY: Engine Oil Pan/Reinforcement
PACK QTY: 1
GM parts Direct Price:$131.04
Most dealers are little more than that but around the same. GM parts direct will rape you with shipping!
Here's the LH8 vs regular truck pan (clean on is the LH8 pan)
Looks like it hangs down to low. I dont wnat the pan lower then the headers, and mt TA mount (BMR relo) thata for sure
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From: Orlando, Florida
Here's what we recommend:
1. Add an extra quart to the sump, along with an oil catch can (because you will get more oil sucked into the intake via the PCV line).
2. If that doesn't solve the problem, add a bolt-in baffle like the one we sell. Or purchase a cast-aluminum aftermarket pan with trap door baffling (we recommend staying away from welded sheet-metal pans).
3. If that doesn't solve the problem, add an oil accumulator (Accusump).
4. If that doesn't solve the problem, you will have to convert to a dry sump system.
We don't recommend high-flow oil pumps. You will drain your oil pan much faster. These engines already have an issue with slow drain-back from the heads, and the drain-back rate can't keep up with a high-flow pump when there are high G-forces involved.
1. Add an extra quart to the sump, along with an oil catch can (because you will get more oil sucked into the intake via the PCV line).
2. If that doesn't solve the problem, add a bolt-in baffle like the one we sell. Or purchase a cast-aluminum aftermarket pan with trap door baffling (we recommend staying away from welded sheet-metal pans).
3. If that doesn't solve the problem, add an oil accumulator (Accusump).
4. If that doesn't solve the problem, you will have to convert to a dry sump system.
We don't recommend high-flow oil pumps. You will drain your oil pan much faster. These engines already have an issue with slow drain-back from the heads, and the drain-back rate can't keep up with a high-flow pump when there are high G-forces involved.
