what trans fluid for race built th400
#1
what trans fluid for race built th400
for you th400 guys what fluid are you running? I have a RMVB th400 w/ trans brake and circle D convertor. sold my t-56 and i'm installing this in my camaro. not sure what fluid would be best. also I have a deep aluminum pan, how man quarts roughly does a trans like this hold? i want to get it as close to full as i can before i start the car to check fluid levels.
#2
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the diameter of the converter plus 2 qrts. assuming to have the 245mm ( 10" ) it would be 12 quarts. i just run whatever the cheapest dex/merc they have at the store in my rossler 400.
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I've been using Semi-Truck synthetic trans fluid for ~15 years.
Get it by the bucket at the truck supply house.
Plenty of high HP & Nitrous runs and never had an issue with the fluid.
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I've been using Semi-Truck synthetic trans fluid for ~15 years.
Get it by the bucket at the truck supply house.
Plenty of high HP & Nitrous runs and never had an issue with the fluid.
.
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#9
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X1 for ask the builder. They will have an opinion and it will matter if you have any kind of warranty. Ford type F used to be the hot ticket for the TH-400 back in the day. It allowed for more holding power. Transmission builders would re-bottle it and sell it under their brand name as the trick of the week of for purists that would refuse to run "Ford" fluid in their GM. End of story, just ask the builder.
#10
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I would ask the trans builder, if they don't have any specific fluid that they tell you to run I woudl run the hygard john deere fluid, and put about 1/2 a qt of regular red fluid in to give it some color, unless John deere started putting a dye in the fluid that stuff is clear and hard to see.
As for how much to run, I would put 5 to 6 qts in and start the car, let it run for a couple minutes, add a qt, check the level until it's starting to look full, continue to add it with the trans up to temp until you see some come out the overflow. I have yet to see an aftermarket dipstick that actually read right especially once you put a deep pan on. The way I used to know my trans was full, is when it started to come out the overflow to be totally honest.
If you haven't put the trans in yet put an overflow/catch can on the overflow tube, and mount that in the back of the car, so that if it overflows it won't get on the tires (bad situation waiting to happen) If you don't put the can at least run a small rubber hose back to the rear bumper cover. Keep adding until you start to see a little come out the overflow with the trans up to temp.. then you know it's full.
Sounds 1/2 *** but until I see an actual dipstick that has a real reading on it that is accurate, I can't see any other way to make sure it's full. I know one thing for sure, if you run it too low, you will run the risk of having trans issues, slipping and can hurt stuff. Too full it will just puke it out until it's at the point where it needs to be.
As for how much to run, I would put 5 to 6 qts in and start the car, let it run for a couple minutes, add a qt, check the level until it's starting to look full, continue to add it with the trans up to temp until you see some come out the overflow. I have yet to see an aftermarket dipstick that actually read right especially once you put a deep pan on. The way I used to know my trans was full, is when it started to come out the overflow to be totally honest.
If you haven't put the trans in yet put an overflow/catch can on the overflow tube, and mount that in the back of the car, so that if it overflows it won't get on the tires (bad situation waiting to happen) If you don't put the can at least run a small rubber hose back to the rear bumper cover. Keep adding until you start to see a little come out the overflow with the trans up to temp.. then you know it's full.
Sounds 1/2 *** but until I see an actual dipstick that has a real reading on it that is accurate, I can't see any other way to make sure it's full. I know one thing for sure, if you run it too low, you will run the risk of having trans issues, slipping and can hurt stuff. Too full it will just puke it out until it's at the point where it needs to be.
#11
Back in the 80's I paid 79 cents a qt. when B&M Trick Shift fluid was quite a bit more $$$ for the fancy label on the can. YES, I said "can". Remember them?
I'll add to your description a bit....
Ford trannys didn't have enough friction material on their discs so they required fluid with friction material in it. Type F has friction material in the fluid.
I STILL use "Type F" fluid in my race trannys.
Last edited by Firehawk441; 02-18-2012 at 12:20 PM.
#13
X1 for ask the builder. They will have an opinion and it will matter if you have any kind of warranty. Ford type F used to be the hot ticket for the TH-400 back in the day. It allowed for more holding power. Transmission builders would re-bottle it and sell it under their brand name as the trick of the week of for purists that would refuse to run "Ford" fluid in their GM. End of story, just ask the builder.
Makes 600@ the tire w the 200 shot. I only drive it in town to car shows
As for how much to run, I would put 5 to 6 qts in and start the car, let it run for a couple minutes, add a qt, check the level until it's starting to look full, continue to add it with the trans up to temp until you see some come out the overflow. I have yet to see an aftermarket dipstick that actually read right especially once you put a deep pan on. The way I used to know my trans was full, is when it started to come out the overflow to be totally honest.
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A vented over flow is an excellent idea for anyone that see's track time.
We are required to have one in my class and I'm glad.
Back before we were, I got burned down by a crap hole track and sprayed fluid all over.
You can just use the cheap plastic 1 qt can and I prefer to move the fitting to the bottom so it drains back into the trans!!
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A vented over flow is an excellent idea for anyone that see's track time.
We are required to have one in my class and I'm glad.
Back before we were, I got burned down by a crap hole track and sprayed fluid all over.
You can just use the cheap plastic 1 qt can and I prefer to move the fitting to the bottom so it drains back into the trans!!
.
#17
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We use different fluids for different tracks. On a sticky track I will use a full synthetic fluid and it will loosen the convertor. On a slick track I will use Hygard to tighten the convertor. Type "F" falls in the middle. It just adds another tuning possibility for track conditions.
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#18
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We use different fluids for different tracks. On a sticky track I will use a full synthetic fluid and it will loosen the convertor. On a slick track I will use Hygard to tighten the convertor. Type "F" falls in the middle. It just adds another tuning possibility for track conditions.
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Yes, but ask him how much each fluid changes the stall.
A lot of guys do that, but it is a lot of work compared to changing a chip or typing in a different setting.
I know I'm lazy, but it was too much work, time & mess to be a viable tuning aid on my set up.
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Yes, but ask him how much each fluid changes the stall.
A lot of guys do that, but it is a lot of work compared to changing a chip or typing in a different setting.
I know I'm lazy, but it was too much work, time & mess to be a viable tuning aid on my set up.
.
#20
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I found that going from a full synthetic Amsoil super shift trans fluid, to hygard light viscosity that it loosened my stall from 3800ish on the transbrake(old turbo car with 3800 stall) to 4100 on the brake. I tried the regular viscosity hygard in there and it went from 4100 to 3650-3700.
I've heard of it loosening as much as mine at 400-500 rpm and as little as 100-200 rpm in other's, other way around for the regular viscosity.
So what I found was that the light viscosity hygard made my stall looser than when I used a synthetic fluid, but the reg. viscosity tightened it about 200rpm from where it was with the synthetic.
I saw my lowest trans temps on the transbrake, end of a run and cruising with the Amsoil, and the Hygard is the only other fluid that has come within 5-10* of the Amsoil along with being 18 a gallon for Hygard and 10 a quart for Amsoil the choice for me is obvious. I was seeing 240 with dextron at the end of run and 210 on the transbrake spooling. With the Amsoil it was 170 on the brake spooling at 200-210 at the end of the run. With the hygard it did 175-180 on the brake and 210-215 at the end of a run.
Cooler wasn't in the best spot(under the passenger floorboard) but it definately worked. New car has a much bigger cooler in a much better location.
I've heard of it loosening as much as mine at 400-500 rpm and as little as 100-200 rpm in other's, other way around for the regular viscosity.
So what I found was that the light viscosity hygard made my stall looser than when I used a synthetic fluid, but the reg. viscosity tightened it about 200rpm from where it was with the synthetic.
I saw my lowest trans temps on the transbrake, end of a run and cruising with the Amsoil, and the Hygard is the only other fluid that has come within 5-10* of the Amsoil along with being 18 a gallon for Hygard and 10 a quart for Amsoil the choice for me is obvious. I was seeing 240 with dextron at the end of run and 210 on the transbrake spooling. With the Amsoil it was 170 on the brake spooling at 200-210 at the end of the run. With the hygard it did 175-180 on the brake and 210-215 at the end of a run.
Cooler wasn't in the best spot(under the passenger floorboard) but it definately worked. New car has a much bigger cooler in a much better location.