jetaws6

iTrader: (3)

I went to the track for the first time this weekend on my build and I was getting some wheel hop. I have strange single adjustable in the back and coil overs in the front. I have the back set at 7 and the front at 5 for the extension ****. I am on the stock lca's. The track prep was good that day but I was still spinning off the line. Tire pressure was at 15 psi, running on hosier qtp's

I am new to suspension and I am unsure of even where to start. I was thinking at the track to have the backs somewhat stiffer to help put the power down.

Best 60 foot in the vid. 1.81 off 4200 launch. I have a line lock on the way to help with burnouts mods in sig.



****ROUND 2 AT POST 19****

****ROUND 3 AT POST 39****

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xjm99...layer_embedded

BMR Sales2

iTrader: (40)

A good set of lower control arms and lower control arm relocation brackets would definitely help with the wheel hop considering you are running stock lower control arms. What kind of tire pressure were you running?

deerslayinrednek

iTrader: (8)

My hoosier drag radials like 14psi so wouldn't the QTP be able to run lower psi? I've never read up on them though.

Im an auto car but my rear shocks liked it best on the 5th click from fully soft which would be the 6th position. A click in either direction and I'd loose 60' time, my fronts are also softer than that. I'm learning suspension thing too so idk how much help i am

BMR Sales2

iTrader: (40)

Generally a good starting point for the shocks is a couple clicks from full soft in the front and and a couple clicks from full stiff in the rear. This will allow the front end to come up and transfer weight easier and keep pressure on the rear tires. I am not very familiar with the Hoosier tires but I know with M/T drag radials we tend to run them between 18-21 psi and with the M/T stiff side-walled slick we run a higher pressure close to what we would run our drag radials. Now with a soft side-walled slick we would run a lowewr psi like 12-14 psi.

I would play with the tire pressures some and get a good set of lower control arms and lower control arm relocation brackets and you should get rid of all that wheel hop.

chevelledave

iTrader: (5)

loosen up the front to full loose ..looks like you have about a an inch of travel ...

ssvert99

iTrader: (26)

Jeff:

Being your rearend came with the LCA relocation brackets ALREADY BUILT IN, go with one of the two lower hole sets, move your front shocks to 1 or 2 from full soft.

Your tire pressure, launch RPM, and available traction will depend on where you set the rear shocks. Every car is a bit different there but with some track time you will find what the car wants.

You will also want to start keeping a log book on your passes with the settings noted as well as maybe even investing in a temp gun for to record track and tire temps.

A set of adjustable LCAs won't be a bad idea, but don't think you will see a huge gain just with them.

Feel free to call if you want good advice and no sales pitch.

jetaws6

iTrader: (3)

Yeah I was thinking about moving them to a different hole so I will give that a try. The rear has been nothing less then fantastic by the way, great product.

Also ill soften the front up all the way as well and see how she does with that. The coil overs I had to adjust pretty high up to set my ride height. I have some room to drop it though to help with the travel.

The qtp's are dot drag radials. I was talking to some other guys at the track and they were all running anywhere from 12-16 psi I have some room to play with that. Also my rim size is a little small for these tires which isnt helping me.

Fbodyjunkie06

iTrader: (10)

As BMR said wheel hop is from one of two things. The wrong lca geometry or too loose a compression setting.

In your case not having the relocation brackets I'd bet it's the wrong geometry.

Also that looks like your at Cecil County which is one of the best slick tire tracks in the country. It is probably going to have a little more bite at the line than most tracks so that could also be compounding your wheel hop problem.

If you already have the relocation brackets welded to the axle from MWC then put them in the lowest hole to the ground. That should cure the problem. If you have more than 2 holes and have 3 holes which it sounds like put them in the middle first and then try the lowest hole.

jetaws6

iTrader: (3)

Tonights the first night im gonna be able to get under it and look but It has three holes on it. I am pretty sure mines in the middle hole so I will drop it down and we will see where we go from there

nocooler

iTrader: (5)

Is that a short arm MWC setup?

Where do you have the front located at? In my experience relocating the lowers will cause it to hit the tires even harder.

I'm very familiar with the MWC setup - mine started out where your at, and now it goes consistent low 1.5's on a mediocre track.

jetaws6

iTrader: (3)

Yes it is a short arm and I will be able to check out tonight but most likely its somewhere in the middle. Wheres yours located?

nocooler

iTrader: (5)

I had to put mine in the bottom hole to hook.

Lowers are in the 2 hole down from the top. This got me as close to 2* down hill to the rear as I could.

Set your shocks at 50% Compression/Rebound - and tires @ 12psi hot.

I'd start with the 2 step @ 5000 and work your way up.

jetaws6

iTrader: (3)

mwc can probably tell me if this is true or not but you probably just did the opposite by moving the tq arm down and the lca's up

nocooler

iTrader: (5)

M6 cars are different then auto cars....

Moving the torque arm down, makes hit the tires slower, but it has more leverage - thus it stays transferred longer.

Moving the control arms up takes out the excessive anti-squat.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0fpQ4...1&feature=plcp - <-works for me 1.51 60'. They had just sprayed the track before my pass so the car dead hooked, yanked the front and then bogged. This fall after I get a new clutch in it, I'm going to finish dialing in the shocks - should have a mid 1.4 in there somewhere.

Just trying to point you in the right direction.

jetaws6

iTrader: (3)

huh interesting. When I get home from work ill post up how my car is setup now.

Your car looks bad *** btw what h/c you go with?

jetaws6

iTrader: (3)

My torque arm is in the 2nd from the bottom along with my lca's. Im going to drop my lca's to the last hole n see how that helps me

nocooler

iTrader: (5)

Thanks - it's a SI5 cam (231/237) and Patriot stage 2 LS6 heads

I can almost guarantee that moving the control arms down will make it hit the tires even harder (more anti-squat) and won't 60' better.

The 2nd hole on the torque arm worked great for me until I put heads/cam on the car, and I had to move it down.

jetaws6

iTrader: (3)

I have those same heads but with a baby 228r.

I am gonna try what mwc and bmr said with the lca's but if that doesnt work ill defiantly move em back up one and drop the torque arm. They are simple enough to change and it looks like thats whats working with your car which very similar to mine.

jetaws6

iTrader: (3)

Well I finally got back to the track last night and moving the lca's down made it worse. Could only manage a 1.90 60' and I had the 2step way down (3400). The air wasnt great last night but not terrible.

I am going to move the lca's back up and drop the tq arm down like nocooler said

fronts were all the way soft and the rears were at 8. I think I am going to drop the front coilovers some too.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qse2N...1&feature=plcp

nocooler

iTrader: (5)

Video shows just what I expected.....