gears with an A4??
#1
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From: Southeast Texas
gears with an A4??
i was just wondering what gears ya'll have on your stock 10 bolts??
i was thinking of 4.10's becuase i dont plane on spray and its not a daily driver
mods are in sig and i run et streets with about 13-15 psi's...
just curious.....
i was thinking of 4.10's becuase i dont plane on spray and its not a daily driver
mods are in sig and i run et streets with about 13-15 psi's...
just curious.....
#4
3.42's here.
Only because the original stocker 3.23 blew due to an inept GM mechanic at a dealership. So I bought a stock 10 bolt out of a 6spd car from a member here. It made a marginal difference in driving. Launches out of the hole better now.
Tony
Only because the original stocker 3.23 blew due to an inept GM mechanic at a dealership. So I bought a stock 10 bolt out of a 6spd car from a member here. It made a marginal difference in driving. Launches out of the hole better now.
Tony
#7
Originally Posted by 98sspullin'em
well if no one agrees with 4.10s, any feedback on the 3.73s?
my gf has some in her SS (daily driven)...
maybe some of those?
my gf has some in her SS (daily driven)...
maybe some of those?
3.23s Good for 1.55 60fts with a 3525 lb raceweight. Much stronger than 4.10s and they get pretty good MPG too.
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#8
Well, if you're wanting someone to tell you that they'll make the car appreciably faster despite your PT4400 stall, it probably isn't going to happen. They'll help just a LITTLE bit...with emphasis on the "LITTLE". Changing to numerically higher gears will likely get you a noiser rear, a weaker rear, and will most certainly hurt your gas mileage to a noticable degree. It will make the converter seem just a little more streetable when just starting off, however.
I wouldn't put a dime into a stock rearend. Run it with the 3.23s until it breaks, then upgrade to a 12-bolt. And, if you're serious enough about racing that you want that last 1/4 of tenth, then you're serious enough to cough up the money for a 12-bolt, IMO.
I wouldn't put a dime into a stock rearend. Run it with the 3.23s until it breaks, then upgrade to a 12-bolt. And, if you're serious enough about racing that you want that last 1/4 of tenth, then you're serious enough to cough up the money for a 12-bolt, IMO.
#9
Originally Posted by Colonel
Well, if you're wanting someone to tell you that they'll make the car appreciably faster despite your PT4400 stall, it probably isn't going to happen. They'll help just a LITTLE bit...with emphasis on the "LITTLE". Changing to numerically higher gears will likely get you a noiser rear, a weaker rear, and will most certainly hurt your gas mileage to a noticable degree. It will make the converter seem just a little more streetable when just starting off, however.
I wouldn't put a dime into a stock rearend. Run it with the 3.23s until it breaks, then upgrade to a 12-bolt. And, if you're serious enough about racing that you want that last 1/4 of tenth, then you're serious enough to cough up the money for a 12-bolt, IMO.
I wouldn't put a dime into a stock rearend. Run it with the 3.23s until it breaks, then upgrade to a 12-bolt. And, if you're serious enough about racing that you want that last 1/4 of tenth, then you're serious enough to cough up the money for a 12-bolt, IMO.
#11
Keep the 3.23's in there. I swapped out to 3.73 and yea it helps acceleration and all. . .a 'little' bit. . . however it's not worth the extra money you'll be spending in gas if it's a daily driver.
Although other than the gas mileage I actually love the 3.73s. I put them in at the same time I threw in a 3500 stall. The combo seems to have worked out pretty well
Although other than the gas mileage I actually love the 3.73s. I put them in at the same time I threw in a 3500 stall. The combo seems to have worked out pretty well
#12
i agree,keep your stock gears. gearing has such little effect on big stalled autos. only reason to go to a big gear is 1) big tire 2) you like 3000 rpms on the highway 3) you like a weaker 10 bolt.
#13
They say that 3.73s are the best for an A4 car, while 4.10s are the way to go with an M6 car. Undoubtably due to the tranny gearing & trying to go thru the traps at peak rpms. But when you change tire sizes, that formula goes in the tank. Deeper gears DO get you into your power band quicker, & keep you there longer. You might lose 1 mpg. A friend of mine with 4.10s dynos 10 hp lower than I do, but traps 2 mph faster.
I am about to swap my stock 3.23 10 bolt for a 3.73 12 bolt. And next year I plan to install a 3k+ stall & use some 26x10" ET Streets. With that setup I hope to run 1.7 60' & push hi 11s....low 12s for sure.
I am about to swap my stock 3.23 10 bolt for a 3.73 12 bolt. And next year I plan to install a 3k+ stall & use some 26x10" ET Streets. With that setup I hope to run 1.7 60' & push hi 11s....low 12s for sure.
#17
Originally Posted by foff667
whats your opinion on swapping from 2.73's then? I too would like to go with 4.10's once i get some change in my pocket, i dont have nearly as big of a stall and dont plan on restalling it anytime soon. Right now my car shifts to 3rd at around the 1000 but ive also go the stock shift points and limiters, but that will change in a couple of weeks once my heads/cam/tuning is done but I should be in the mid to high 11's at that time.
#18
Originally Posted by toxic99
Go with 3.23s or 3.42s. Anything higher than that will give a marginal decrease in et (or maybe nothing). Especially if you plan to use nitrous. I know of several people that have gone with 3.73s and higher only to slow down a bit. If you plan to use taller than stock slicks than go up in gear to compensate.