Lemons12- 370/Ls3 nitrous build
#261
Thread Starter
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (71)
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 11,088
Likes: 2
From: Winchester, TN
Evan have you ordered the bumper supports from MWC yet? I was advised by a fellow member that you have to cover the bottom of the bumper or it becomes a parachute, kind of like what Hiho did. There's more weight to be saved up front than in the rear anyways, save yourself the 150. Just my opinion of course.
I had forgotten all about that, glad you mentioned it. I will probably leave the rear one in.
I am going to remove the front bumper support soon.. I had made my own brackets to "support" the bumper and I am going to do something similar for my Pewter car.
Will cost about 10$ and take about an hour to do, well worth the saving.. Plus it will weigh less than 2#s.
I'm seriously looking at a battery relocation with a push on/off setup right now.. He said he would do 150$ shipped. Anybody got anything to say about this? Input on price/other kits/how good this kit is/etc.. Anything.
Do not know who made it, but its a well made kit.
Aluminum battery box
-vent bung welded on so you can run fitting/braided hose (not included)
Battery tray- mounts to right rear frame rail (L) or (r) side. It can be hidden in spare tire area but antenna bracket will need moved/modified.
Push/pull kill switch
Taylor 2/4 gauge cable for battery and alternator
2 gauge for switch and hot from battery to switch.
Aluminum battery box
-vent bung welded on so you can run fitting/braided hose (not included)
Battery tray- mounts to right rear frame rail (L) or (r) side. It can be hidden in spare tire area but antenna bracket will need moved/modified.
Push/pull kill switch
Taylor 2/4 gauge cable for battery and alternator
2 gauge for switch and hot from battery to switch.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/attachmen...0-18.37.03.jpg
https://ls1tech.com/forums/attachmen...8-20.10.09.jpg
#262
Is that 150 including the battery tray? I found a nice looking battery tray on Summit for like 30 bucks (the BMR is 90! ) so that plus the switch, the wire, wire ends, and distribution block; It would most likely be about the same price. Even without the tray it, if your someone that enjoys buying stuff as a kit and not having to fuss with figuring it out then it would likely be worth it to you. If plan on tracking the car, I'm pretty sure its required after a certain ET.
Edit: Here is a nice diagram I tracked a long time ago that might help you. It helped me wrap my head around the whole thing.
Edit: Here is a nice diagram I tracked a long time ago that might help you. It helped me wrap my head around the whole thing.
Last edited by My6speedZ; 02-02-2013 at 01:27 PM.
#263
Thread Starter
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (71)
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 11,088
Likes: 2
From: Winchester, TN
Is that 150 including the battery tray? I found a nice looking battery tray on Summit for like 30 bucks (the BMR is 90! ) so that plus the switch, the wire, wire ends, and distribution block; It would most likely be about the same price. Even without the tray it, if your someone that enjoys buying stuff as a kit and not having to fuss with figuring it out then it would likely be worth it to you. If plan on tracking the car, I'm pretty sure its required after a certain ET.
Edit: Here is a nice diagram I tracked a long time ago that might help you. It helped me wrap my head around the whole thing.
Edit: Here is a nice diagram I tracked a long time ago that might help you. It helped me wrap my head around the whole thing.
However, I don't like buying "beat" things.. I like it to look fairly new, hence the complete redo on my motor appearance with bolts/etc.
Since this is everything I need and a good price, I think I'm going to go ahead and commit. I'm going to have to do it sooner or later anyway.
The 150 shipped does include the battery tray.
Thanks for the wiring diagram!
#265
Thread Starter
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (71)
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 11,088
Likes: 2
From: Winchester, TN
It isn't much of a "support" really.
Basically you use the flat aluminum bar from home depot:
Make sure to get it thick enough you can't bend it by hand (at least not easily) but thin enough you can bend it with a set of pliers.
Find your mounting tabs under the bumper (or drill your own) and bend the flat bar however you need to mount them.
It really helps with the "wobble" you get with no support and keeps it from sagging.
I did it to my old White car and it cut out all the wobble almost (high speeds I'm sure it still did a little) and brought it back up where it was supposed to sit and fixed all the gaps.
It only costs a few bucks and takes very little time. Paint them black and you are good to go. It weighs virtually nothing.
I think it is perfect for a DIY.
#266
I mean ****, if you really cared to, you could rough that stuff and spray it, or spray it everything else and polish the battery box, wires will be hidden. That stuff can be made to look nice enough, like I said I don't think you could piece it together for less than 150.
#267
Thread Starter
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (71)
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 11,088
Likes: 2
From: Winchester, TN
I mean ****, if you really cared to, you could rough that stuff and spray it, or spray it everything else and polish the battery box, wires will be hidden. That stuff can be made to look nice enough, like I said I don't think you could piece it together for less than 150.
It was originally 200+shipping.. He came back with the 150$ shipped and that made up my mind.
#268
Thread Starter
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (71)
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 11,088
Likes: 2
From: Winchester, TN
Well, it got a tad cold tonight... For the first time this year:
Buddies K member came in from PARacing.. Mine is shipping on Monday.. Then on Tuesday my battery relocation kit will be on the way.
This is a very nice piece!
New valve cover gaskets/grommets.. Knock sensor harness.. And the last little bit of my stainless steel bolts have arrived.
Buddies K member came in from PARacing.. Mine is shipping on Monday.. Then on Tuesday my battery relocation kit will be on the way.
This is a very nice piece!
New valve cover gaskets/grommets.. Knock sensor harness.. And the last little bit of my stainless steel bolts have arrived.
#269
Thread Starter
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (71)
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 11,088
Likes: 2
From: Winchester, TN
Tomorrow I will have the new front seal.. The rear oil plug/barbell.. Knock sensors..
After that the complete motor will be able to be assembled for the last time.
As soon as I get these valve covers finished up I will bolt them on and it will be ready to drop in.
I have been cleaning up the engine bay a little bit.. Relocating wires/hiding grounds/etc.. I deleted the TCS/cruise control box and module just a little bit ago (fs if anyone wants it). I need to order or find someone with a 98-99 non TCS/cruise control car (the one that just goes from the gas pedal to the TB blade.
I would REALLY like to get the ABS delete done in the next day or two but I need some direction on it.
I'm going to clean up my fuse box relocation that I did a couple years ago as well.
Will probably remove the front bumper support in the next day or two most likely.
After that the complete motor will be able to be assembled for the last time.
As soon as I get these valve covers finished up I will bolt them on and it will be ready to drop in.
I have been cleaning up the engine bay a little bit.. Relocating wires/hiding grounds/etc.. I deleted the TCS/cruise control box and module just a little bit ago (fs if anyone wants it). I need to order or find someone with a 98-99 non TCS/cruise control car (the one that just goes from the gas pedal to the TB blade.
I would REALLY like to get the ABS delete done in the next day or two but I need some direction on it.
I'm going to clean up my fuse box relocation that I did a couple years ago as well.
Will probably remove the front bumper support in the next day or two most likely.
#270
Thread Starter
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (71)
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 11,088
Likes: 2
From: Winchester, TN
Got the bolt hole drilled/tapped for the alternator... And yes we had to do it the ghetto way!
Worked like a charm though, would do it the same way without hesitation if I ever have to.
Got the new knock sensors/harness in and installed.
One of my water pump gaskets had a small tear in it so I grabbed some new ones.. I now have 100% new gaskets/seals throughout the motor.
I went ahead and got new coolant crossover/block off gaskets as well.
Got some wires hidden/lines relocated/grounds relocated/all wire loom cleaned and re taped.. Looks much better. Going to finish painting the passenger wheel well top in just a little bit.
Got my rear deck "trap door" cut and the fuel pump out.. I decided to go ahead and get a Walbro 255 so I could at least spray a 100ish shot for now. I'm going to order that tomorrow, I REALLY hope I can get it here by Saturday but we will see. I will add another Walbro 255 in the bucket later and upgrade the fuel lines and FPR.. This should support excess of 900Rwhp easily.
The UD pulley is on and torqued down as well as the flexplate. The waterpump/tensioner is on for good now.
I'm going to also switch the sensor/plug on the head so they are in the correct locations in a little bit.
Tonight I have to do some more cleaning (alt. bracket/alt./power steering assembly) and finish up some painting so I can install this stuff tomorrow.
I also had to pull the DS out to get the loop off to hopefully trade for the battery relocation so I'm going to throw some new U joints on it.
I have been slacking on updates but it is because I have been spending so much time on the car.
I think that is all the updates I have... I have done so much I'm starting to forget a few things here and there.
PICS:
Worked like a charm though, would do it the same way without hesitation if I ever have to.
Got the new knock sensors/harness in and installed.
One of my water pump gaskets had a small tear in it so I grabbed some new ones.. I now have 100% new gaskets/seals throughout the motor.
I went ahead and got new coolant crossover/block off gaskets as well.
Got some wires hidden/lines relocated/grounds relocated/all wire loom cleaned and re taped.. Looks much better. Going to finish painting the passenger wheel well top in just a little bit.
Got my rear deck "trap door" cut and the fuel pump out.. I decided to go ahead and get a Walbro 255 so I could at least spray a 100ish shot for now. I'm going to order that tomorrow, I REALLY hope I can get it here by Saturday but we will see. I will add another Walbro 255 in the bucket later and upgrade the fuel lines and FPR.. This should support excess of 900Rwhp easily.
The UD pulley is on and torqued down as well as the flexplate. The waterpump/tensioner is on for good now.
I'm going to also switch the sensor/plug on the head so they are in the correct locations in a little bit.
Tonight I have to do some more cleaning (alt. bracket/alt./power steering assembly) and finish up some painting so I can install this stuff tomorrow.
I also had to pull the DS out to get the loop off to hopefully trade for the battery relocation so I'm going to throw some new U joints on it.
I have been slacking on updates but it is because I have been spending so much time on the car.
I think that is all the updates I have... I have done so much I'm starting to forget a few things here and there.
PICS:
#272
Thread Starter
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (71)
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 11,088
Likes: 2
From: Winchester, TN
Come on up!! We got a few setups about to be done.
My car
370/D1 @ 18# camaro
451 nitrous camaro
427 H/C nitrous ls2 C6
408 ls3 top end camaro
All will be done within a week to 1 month or so.
Well... If my dumb *** could stop buying parts and spending money I might actually get this car running one day!! At least it isn't running because I'm upgrading and not sitting on the couch being lazy with it. I'm making big gains towards getting a finished product every day.
I went ahead and ordered my dual Walbro 255s and hot wire kits. I had a guy offer to buy my stock pump so I figured it was as good time as any to upgrade.
I cut a trap door to make it easier for anything I need to fiddle with in there in the future. I am also going to siphon all my old gas out before I run it, it doesn't look pretty in there. Do we have drain plugs on these (2000 plastic).
I just talked to Jason@PARacing... I wish I would have decided before but I guess I'm going to go ahead and order the pedestals for the motor mounts. No reason to put the old beat up rusted ones back on.
I got my studs on the front... Since I already have the rotors/calipers/etc off I am going to go ahead and jump on a new brakemotive package for the fronts/rears with new pads. I probably needed new rotors anyway, the ones I have are pretty rusted.
Bought a new fuel line hose for my TB bypass, the old one was starting to crack on the ends. Don't want to deal with any leaks.
I have been buying 2 quarts of oil every time I go in the parts store so it isn't an all at once hit.
Went ahead and removed the TCS/cruise control BS and picked up my new throttle cable line for that from the dealer today.
Can't think of anything else but I am sure there is more.
#274
Thread Starter
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (71)
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 11,088
Likes: 2
From: Winchester, TN
I just got done talking to Jason@PA... I should have just bit the bullet and ordered them whenever I ordered the K. I am placing my order tomorrow for some solids.
I won't post openly on the forums what I paid for my K member but I will say I got hooked up. I see very few used K members selling for the price I paid for mine. Jason has got me as a returning customer for this reason alone, not to mention it is a very well made piece.
*I also got my ARP flex plate bolts in... I came across a used set that has been in classifieds for a while and sent a text and got them for a good deal so I picked them up.
I won't post openly on the forums what I paid for my K member but I will say I got hooked up. I see very few used K members selling for the price I paid for mine. Jason has got me as a returning customer for this reason alone, not to mention it is a very well made piece.
*I also got my ARP flex plate bolts in... I came across a used set that has been in classifieds for a while and sent a text and got them for a good deal so I picked them up.
#275
Thread Starter
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (71)
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 11,088
Likes: 2
From: Winchester, TN
I have the Wilwood proportioning valve but I need to find out what I need to buy and how to route everything in with my line lock.
The lines that I have I think are worthless so I am just going to have to do a DIY yourself setup. Kind of sucks knowing what I paid for this "kit" and what I could have bought the proportioning valve and lines and did it myself for.
Anybody that has info on this please post up! This is something I am needing guidance on right now!!
The lines that I have I think are worthless so I am just going to have to do a DIY yourself setup. Kind of sucks knowing what I paid for this "kit" and what I could have bought the proportioning valve and lines and did it myself for.
Anybody that has info on this please post up! This is something I am needing guidance on right now!!
#279
Save me some snow, I'm on my way... 8' Skis inside a 6 1/2' pickup bed
Oh, and no bueno on the drain on a 2000 tank. Harbor freight fountain pump, $8 and just enough for one use.
Oh, and no bueno on the drain on a 2000 tank. Harbor freight fountain pump, $8 and just enough for one use.
#280
Thread Starter
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (71)
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 11,088
Likes: 2
From: Winchester, TN
We got a little a few days ago... Maybe a total of 4 hours. It was all gone by noon. Other than that, a few flurries here and there.
That thing looks so sissy sitting up there!
Either way, first couple rounds on me!!
I need a harbor frieght trip anyway.. I'll grab one while I'm in.
*Got my driver inner fender/under front of car wiped down and cleaned really good. Got the fuses set in there a little more roper instead of ghetto rigged like I had it before. I need to make a cover for it though to make it look all pretty and what not... I'm going to wait until my battery relocation comes in though and do it all at once.
I decided to "F it" on the valve covers... I think I'm looking at some Katechs right now. Anybody got some options that are half *** easy on the wallet besides those? I'm not buying the crap ebay ones, I know that. I want some without coil mounts as mine will be relocated.
I also fiddled with where I'm going to mount my coils... It will be there first times I have seen it done, hopefully it works out good. They will be 100% hidden, only the wires showing.
Got my new ARP flex bolts in.
Can't remember what else I did.. I need to clean the garage a little!!!