Drag Strip Newbie
Thread Starter
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 1,062
Likes: 2
From: Westminster, MD
Drag Strip Newbie Been looking over some info on actually going to the drag strip trying to visualize how everything should be done before I go to run my car for the first time. I know I'll need a helmet because I don't plan on sucking enough to run slower than 13.99 and I'll be on street tires so I know to avoid the waterbox. But I have 2 questions, one of which I know I've seen opinions on somewhere on here but I searched and can't find it again.
First, I'm pretty sure my pinion seal is leaking, slowly, but leaking nonetheless. A, will they even let me down the track? B, is it safe to race if they do let me?
Second, my car is a stock A4 Formula. Not sure if Camaros or "real" T/As have a different console or not, but what gear would I want to select? I read that on street tires you don't want to do a full burnout, you just want to whack the throttle to clean them a bit so I assume that can be done in 1 or 2, 3, or D, doesn't really matter. But when it comes to actually going down the track, what is best? Would I want to put it in 3 or D? This is going to make me sound like a total newb
, but my DD has a setting for OD, a setting for D, and 1. To me that means that in the Formula, D would include OD, and I've heard people on here say to avoid OD to keep the rpms in the powerband.
First, I'm pretty sure my pinion seal is leaking, slowly, but leaking nonetheless. A, will they even let me down the track? B, is it safe to race if they do let me?
Second, my car is a stock A4 Formula. Not sure if Camaros or "real" T/As have a different console or not, but what gear would I want to select? I read that on street tires you don't want to do a full burnout, you just want to whack the throttle to clean them a bit so I assume that can be done in 1 or 2, 3, or D, doesn't really matter. But when it comes to actually going down the track, what is best? Would I want to put it in 3 or D? This is going to make me sound like a total newb
, but my DD has a setting for OD, a setting for D, and 1. To me that means that in the Formula, D would include OD, and I've heard people on here say to avoid OD to keep the rpms in the powerband. Thread Starter
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 1,062
Likes: 2
From: Westminster, MD
It'd be at 75-80 Mike. I don't have a setting that blatantly says OD hence my apprehension. I just have 1, 2, 3, and D, thats why I wasn't sure if people talking about keeping it in D vs OD have a different console setup than I do depending on their model.
The pinion seal leaks roughly about the size of quarter if it sits for 5-7 days.
The pinion seal leaks roughly about the size of quarter if it sits for 5-7 days.
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It'd be at 75-80 Mike. I don't have a setting that blatantly says OD hence my apprehension. I just have 1, 2, 3, and D, thats why I wasn't sure if people talking about keeping it in D vs OD have a different console setup than I do depending on their model.
The pinion seal leaks roughly about the size of quarter if it sits for 5-7 days.
The pinion seal leaks roughly about the size of quarter if it sits for 5-7 days.
Thread Starter
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 1,062
Likes: 2
From: Westminster, MD
but I know that reaction time doesn't factor into your ET so I really am not super worried about it. Obviously if I go up against a friend or someone I know I'll pay more attention so I can beat em off the line possibly but if not then I just want to get some solid baseline runs before my converter goes in later this Summer. 
Dont double bulb anyone!
Meaning, when you pull up to the lights, do not pull in and light both lights unless you're running by yourself and no one is in the other lane.
If someone is in the other lane, and hasn't lit their top light yet, pull forward enough to light the first staging light and sit there. Wait until the other driver has lit his first staging light before you light your second staging light. This is called courtesy staging.
Basically by pulling into the beams and lighting both lights immediately you are rushing the other guy. If someone does this to you and lights both bulbs before you light your first bulb, don't even pull into the lights. Just sit there right before the first staging beam and don't light any of the lights. The starter if competent and knows what he is doing will tell the other guy to back up and courtesy stage.
Simple drag strip etiquette that I see a lot of the people on this sight don't do.
Meaning, when you pull up to the lights, do not pull in and light both lights unless you're running by yourself and no one is in the other lane.
If someone is in the other lane, and hasn't lit their top light yet, pull forward enough to light the first staging light and sit there. Wait until the other driver has lit his first staging light before you light your second staging light. This is called courtesy staging.
Basically by pulling into the beams and lighting both lights immediately you are rushing the other guy. If someone does this to you and lights both bulbs before you light your first bulb, don't even pull into the lights. Just sit there right before the first staging beam and don't light any of the lights. The starter if competent and knows what he is doing will tell the other guy to back up and courtesy stage.
Simple drag strip etiquette that I see a lot of the people on this sight don't do.
Not what I heard. Which I mean it makes sense to me as well... I'm not expert but I can tell a difference.
When I raced my "friend's" muatang GT, I dropped them to 18 to catch traction off the line. Seemed to work better than 34lbs like I normally run
When I raced my "friend's" muatang GT, I dropped them to 18 to catch traction off the line. Seemed to work better than 34lbs like I normally run
If you have street tires lowering them that much can be dangerous. When I ran on street tires I didn't go below 26psi. Typical street radials aren't meant to be driven at high speeds with low pressure.