MT drag radial tips
MT drag radial tips Hi fellas,
Got a chance to run the new 275/60/15s last night. The car on its best run had the front QA1s on "1" and the rear drivers at "6" and passenger rear set at "7". The best 60ft I could muster all night was a 1.99 (horrible). Watching the video, i had hard tire spin for about 25ft.
The car has absolutely no wheelhop, just steady smooth burn on launch.
I made four runs with tire pressure starting at 18 and going down to 16lbs on my last run. I did a very healthy burnout on each and launched at 5000rpm.
When the tires did bite, there was no bog and the car hit pretty decent.
The best time slip was:
1.99 60ft
8.15 1/8th mile @ 88.5 mph
12.56 ET @ 112.05 mph
The top end is pulling good, if I can get this 60ft squared away, I might be able to whittle this ET down quite a bit more.
Thanks
Got a chance to run the new 275/60/15s last night. The car on its best run had the front QA1s on "1" and the rear drivers at "6" and passenger rear set at "7". The best 60ft I could muster all night was a 1.99 (horrible). Watching the video, i had hard tire spin for about 25ft.
The car has absolutely no wheelhop, just steady smooth burn on launch.
I made four runs with tire pressure starting at 18 and going down to 16lbs on my last run. I did a very healthy burnout on each and launched at 5000rpm.
When the tires did bite, there was no bog and the car hit pretty decent.
The best time slip was:
1.99 60ft
8.15 1/8th mile @ 88.5 mph
12.56 ET @ 112.05 mph
The top end is pulling good, if I can get this 60ft squared away, I might be able to whittle this ET down quite a bit more.
Thanks
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 689
Likes: 0
From: Muscle Shoals, AL
Im sure there are better people out there to answer the question but my recommendation would be adjusting pinion angle or maybe some relocation brackets for the lca's. Could the frontend be comming up too fast, possibly unloading the rear tires?
The front shocks come up fairly quick and hang high coming down slow. The 9" has relocation LCA brackets and pinion angle is -2 degrees. I'm wondering if setting the back shocks significantly stiffer will help much. Maybe combining that with 14lbs in the tires might do the trick.
Lowering the PSI any more won't help I don't think. Radials really like stiff rear shock settings, are they hooking then unloading?
Might to too much burnout as well, heat them up til they grab and chirp and that's it. Look at some of the x275 videos on the net.
Might to too much burnout as well, heat them up til they grab and chirp and that's it. Look at some of the x275 videos on the net.
I run mt 275/60/15s as well and my shock settings are about where yours are. I only do 3-5 second dust off burnouts at the track and get 1.5 sixty foot times. Tire pressure is 16-17lbs. How was the track prep? On the street legal nights where I live they don't prep the track at all. I am still having troubles hooking then, but on a race weekend it grabs nice.
Track prep was limited because it was a test n tune night. I might have to go back on a Saturday night when they have competitive brackets to see if I fare any better.
The tires didn't grab then unload, just spun fast and hard and then grabbed. Problem was, that spinning was half way to the 60ft marker lol.
I figured because they didn't grab and unload, that my suspension had to be close. The front was still transferring pretty well when they did hook finally. I'm just trying to get in the 1.6- 1.7ish range on my 60ft. That...and some good air will let me close in on the 11.99 bubble.
The tires didn't grab then unload, just spun fast and hard and then grabbed. Problem was, that spinning was half way to the 60ft marker lol.
I figured because they didn't grab and unload, that my suspension had to be close. The front was still transferring pretty well when they did hook finally. I'm just trying to get in the 1.6- 1.7ish range on my 60ft. That...and some good air will let me close in on the 11.99 bubble.
11 Second Club
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 639
Likes: 0
From: Norcal
I notice you're a M6, I never had good results using a DR on my old set ups with the M6.
Anyway, with my current car, with the MT DR, it likes the Hal's set on "boob slayer" <girlfriends term for when I forget to set shocks back to street setting, which would be 8 on both sides. Her car likes the shocks hard too, lol.
Anyway, with my current car, with the MT DR, it likes the Hal's set on "boob slayer" <girlfriends term for when I forget to set shocks back to street setting, which would be 8 on both sides. Her car likes the shocks hard too, lol.
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You need to lower your launch RPM untill you can hook,it all depends on track prep. Bad prep maybe 4,000 rpm. Good prep 5500-6000 rpm. DR need 19-20 psi for best results. Do a burnout on the street and you will see an under pressured DR will leave marks on the outer side of the tires, bump up the pressure until it looks even across the tire.
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I notice you're a M6, I never had good results using a DR on my old set ups with the M6.
Anyway, with my current car, with the MT DR, it likes the Hal's set on "boob slayer" <girlfriends term for when I forget to set shocks back to street setting, which would be 8 on both sides. Her car likes the shocks hard too, lol.
Anyway, with my current car, with the MT DR, it likes the Hal's set on "boob slayer" <girlfriends term for when I forget to set shocks back to street setting, which would be 8 on both sides. Her car likes the shocks hard too, lol.
Clutch cars HAVE to have wheel speed and slip off the line which a drag radial CANNOT have. Radial has to stay dead hooked and you're never going to get that with a clutch.
Sorry if this bursts your bubble.
^ I was looking at 4.30s too. That would put me right around 6k through the lights as well right now. I know DRs arent as desirable as a slick with a manual. But, because of my occupation....and that i drive this car on the street several times a week, I wanna go as fast as I can go on these.
I think with 4.30s I might be able to launch at 4k instead and shock the car (tires) a bit less too.
I think with 4.30s I might be able to launch at 4k instead and shock the car (tires) a bit less too.
not sure how drag radials are but after a burn out with street tires a small dry hop ofter to scrub the tires always has helped my street tires hook. if i dont they always just spin.
why would he want more gear if hes not hooking? i have 4.30s m6 car 440 rwhp it has and never will hook up on a 275 60 15 dr. ive tried everything , adjustments , driving style... just buy slicks.
Unless you have a slipper clutch.
I guess I will get all the life out of these I can (probably till next spring), and then save up some $ and get some spare 28x10 slicks. I still think I will see high 11s eventually.....just not consistently.
DR's and clutches just don't go together.
If they hook it will bog so much it's going to pull the poor thing completely out of it's power band and/or break ****.
Then if you tried slipping the clutch enough to make it not bog it will toast the clutch.
Even a slipper clutch would be hard to get right on a radial and even then it's not what a clutch car needs.
I went with 28"s because they have a better footprint, and next year I planned on more intake mods and spraying. The 2" taller tire would allow for more mph with the 3.90 gear the car currently has. Until I spray, the cheapest and easiest way for me to get the ideal gear this summer yet is to change ring and pinions. I have a 4.11 available but have entertained a 4.30.
Ford 9"s are a breeze to work on, changing gears is easy. If I put 4.30s on this Detroit Locker unit, I will pick up a spool to re-use the 3.90s on at a later date with more power. Spools aren't any worse driving on the street than a Locker is......unless its raining (which ya shouldnt be out in anyway). My Plymouth had a spool, and I swear it wasn't as "noticeable" as a Locker.
Obviously, I will need slicks with more power. I just really thought that with the low power I have now, DR's would have had a fighting chance. Now its my goal to hit a 11.99 with them before they wear out just to say I did, and then move on to bigger, better, and faster things.
I guess the point of this post was to see if my launch rpm, tire psi, and shock settings were in the right ballpark. I'm not super familiar with these cars. My last car had Cal-Tracs and monoleafs and was a cinch to dial in.
Outside of that, going faster is just some more $s down the road, the car's ready for it.... and going from a 9second Nostalgia Super Stock car to a 12/high 11 second street car is cheaper but just as challenging to make things work.
Ford 9"s are a breeze to work on, changing gears is easy. If I put 4.30s on this Detroit Locker unit, I will pick up a spool to re-use the 3.90s on at a later date with more power. Spools aren't any worse driving on the street than a Locker is......unless its raining (which ya shouldnt be out in anyway). My Plymouth had a spool, and I swear it wasn't as "noticeable" as a Locker.
Obviously, I will need slicks with more power. I just really thought that with the low power I have now, DR's would have had a fighting chance. Now its my goal to hit a 11.99 with them before they wear out just to say I did, and then move on to bigger, better, and faster things.
I guess the point of this post was to see if my launch rpm, tire psi, and shock settings were in the right ballpark. I'm not super familiar with these cars. My last car had Cal-Tracs and monoleafs and was a cinch to dial in.
Outside of that, going faster is just some more $s down the road, the car's ready for it.... and going from a 9second Nostalgia Super Stock car to a 12/high 11 second street car is cheaper but just as challenging to make things work.