SPEEDYws6

iTrader: (9)

Just an observation I have made with my cars.... My race car has had the same clutch fluid, still pretty damn clean, in it since I put the tex oz700 in it almost 6 years ago. At the time it wasn't a race car and saw a lot of street time. It uses a stock slave and a self modified master, all stock seals and cups. There are zero pedal or shifting issues in that car.

My street car on the other hand uses a stock clutch, and I have changed the clutch fluid in that car as much as once a week to improve pedal feel and stop pedal sticking. It has never once failed to improve either. But as soon as the fluid turns black the pedal sticks. My bell housing vents are not near as large as what the OP has, but I have ditched the cover plates and I have vent holes in an attempt to vent heat and clutch dust, but I see no measurable difference from the size and placement of my holes.

studderin

iTrader: (28)

another thing with getting the fluid clean when it gets dirty, is I run a stock master, DIY adjustable mod welding the bolt on for the shaft over the stock shaft. You can bleed the fluid a bunch and that dose help when it gets dirty like you guy are saying. But I also found one time I took the master apart, there a ton of black dust hanging around the spring, and the stop. Clean that out, and the pedal feels a LOT easier, smoother and just clean. So I try to do that ever year, just get the master apart and wipe the parts down and brake clean it out. Reassembly in clean fluid, bench bleed and install. And this is just my thing, I bleed it with the back tires lower, and with the car level. About a day apart, if that works out after a test drive.

LS2-240z

Drove to work today. Problem prevails. Low power loafing car shifts great. High power flogging it = shift refusal going to third gear. Keep foot on floor=no go to third. Let off clutch and try again works fine. Maybe,just maybe firewall flex is keeping me from getting 100% from master cyl. I have master rod adjusted as long as possible. If a firewall brace doesn't fix it I'm gonna throw money at it with a Ls-7 clutch,pp and new ls2 throw out bearing. Gotta be ready for race in two weeks.

SPEEDYws6

iTrader: (9)

I wouldn't use an ls7. Yes it will hold the power, but I think your problem will continue. I put an ls7 clutch in a GTO with all new hydros and his does the same thing.

LS2-240z

So, Speedy? What do you recommend? Aaargh! How did you cure it, or do I just scrap this car and hope to get lucky with another one? There are so many complaints of this on the forum, but I can't seem to find one that ends with: "I did such and such and the problem is solved!" Has anybody had my problem and actually solved it? If so, please chime in!!! I'm beating my head against the floor of my garage.

SPEEDYws6

iTrader: (9)

Once I changed to a tex oz700 the pedal problems went away.

LS2-240z

I've been googling around for a Tex Oz 700. Where did you get yours? Does it use the GM throwout bearing? Still getting dirty fluid? Sorry, buddy, I found the info in your earlier post - my bad. Thanks! What type of friction material does the Tex Oz 700 use? I'm wondering if a non-stock friction material will help with the dust in the hydraulics. I'm gonna be dragging every week, sometimes twice a week. I gotta get reliable and can't be bleeding fluid that often!

LS2-240z

I'm back on the road with a good clutch system. Have accepted that a slave inside the bellhousing creates dirty fluid and there's nothing I can do about it. I rigged a 4' remote bleeder with speed bleeder into my inner fender so that I can do routine flushes. The "vent" holes in the bellhousing have not reduced soiling of hydraulic fluid, but it is great to be able to look into the bellhousing to inspect slave operation. Replaced warped flywheel and burned up pressure plate with a Mantic ER2 kit from Eastcoast Performance. Have finished break-in miles and I am shifting at high rpm again without difficulty. Final problem fixed was a bad Tilton master cylinder (had only a few miles on it) that was intermittently allowing "cycling" of fluid, which caused very erratic behavior and unreliable clutch disengagement. In my specific case, the following were suggestions that I worked thru, but were not the actual problem: drill mod, dirty fluid, air in lines, insulating lines, improper adjustment of EVERYTHING. I burned up the clutch all on my own with poor launch technique, and the master cylinder was defective out of the box. I've had 4 Tilton master cylinders, 2 were defective out of the box. If you are having the same trouble I was having, I would replace the master cylinder FIRST, then go down the list from there. Thanks to EVERYBODY! Without your help, I wouldn't have known where to start at all, and my stuff would still be "broke."