calling studderin and all m6 guys for 60ft help
11-23-2012, 05:05 PM
#41
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I was very interested to read this since your sixty foot is IDENTICAL to mine, I also run 11.3s at 1.65 sixty at 121mph our cars are very simular exept I got 100 more hp than you LOL but I am also full weight and not the best driver. I run 14psi on the same tires you do with 3.90 gears, I run a 18lb flywheel and I am sure that hurts me, I have found that doing a longer burnout and letting my tires DEADHOOK slow me down, I get my best sixty if I spin some since I have a lighter than stock flywheel. Not sure if this will help you, id love to lower my sixty foot but I run konis and strano springs with a watts link not so sure my setup is ideal for drag racing anyways but I do ok.
tyler what I do is I annotate each tire psi and rpm launch on my slips and burnout time to see what works best for me, I think at your HP lvl 11 is way to low, try 14, and play with the burnout time and rpm launch, im sure you will see under a 1.6 I thnk 28s would be way to big a tire for a 6 speed with those gears, I have 3.90s and I barly get into 4th gear down the track as it is
i just looked under the car the other day and my rear lower control arms are goimg up hill so im going to get lower control arm brackets soon to get them in the right position
My car i no way shape or form is set up for drag only and i still have some weight reduction. you can take out a lot and still look stock. Good luck with the build
11-23-2012, 07:13 PM
#43
You're gonna be breaking parts UNTIL you finally get deeper gears. As I was reading this thread I kept thinking "I can't believe he hasn't scattered rearend parts everywhere".
I exploded a 4.11 in my 9" trying to do the same thing you're doing. High gears give you no mechanical advantage. I'm running a 26" Stiff Wall ET Drag, and was hitting the tires crazy hard leaving at 5500-5800rpm. Bad bog, and even though the 60' looked ok, my 330' time was lousy.
I switched to a 4.30, and leaving at a lazy 4500rpm is a 1.62 sixty everytime, but since it eliminated the bog I picked up 3 tenths at the 330'. Plus, the steep gears are way, way easier on parts. Literally, the 1.6X sixty foot feels like a Sunday drive compared to my higher geared "smack the crap outta everything then fall on its face" launches.
If you stick with the high 3.73's, you're gonna keep breaking and you're not gonna get much faster in the 330' time.
I exploded a 4.11 in my 9" trying to do the same thing you're doing. High gears give you no mechanical advantage. I'm running a 26" Stiff Wall ET Drag, and was hitting the tires crazy hard leaving at 5500-5800rpm. Bad bog, and even though the 60' looked ok, my 330' time was lousy.
I switched to a 4.30, and leaving at a lazy 4500rpm is a 1.62 sixty everytime, but since it eliminated the bog I picked up 3 tenths at the 330'. Plus, the steep gears are way, way easier on parts. Literally, the 1.6X sixty foot feels like a Sunday drive compared to my higher geared "smack the crap outta everything then fall on its face" launches.
If you stick with the high 3.73's, you're gonna keep breaking and you're not gonna get much faster in the 330' time.
Everyone says go with a 28 inch tire, & I am sure it works better but a few reasons why I didnt. 1. Didnt want to alter the car in any way as far as the fenders & wheel wells. 2. I didnt want to lose any gearing, I feel the 4.11s work great with the tire I have on there now but I do cross the line close to 6k so if I sprayed it I would have to do something. I had 3.73s originaly, with the 4.11s I still can get 23 mpg if I want to which blows people away because they think my car is a gas guzzler. They have no clue.
01-28-2013, 08:59 PM
#44
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Little up date. I got the rearend fixed. Moser warranted my wavetrac and axles. I installed the lca brackets today and had them welded in. I also got me a fast 102 intake for Christmas and just installed that as well so we will see if my 60 fts will improve from the brackets. I have to thank my fabricator for adding a coupler to the middle of my stock fuel rails, making them fit and saving me $200. Will have results next week when I'm able to get to the track
03-03-2013, 07:15 PM
#48
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ok so i have a little question for you all. do i put the lower control arms in the bottom wholes of the relocation brackets? I have them in the second whole and they are at 3* but my 60ft hsas not improved at all
03-05-2013, 07:55 AM
#49
I remember going through this several years ago when I was about 400+ rwhp and full weight. When I ran NA it would bog on the line. Then I would hit it with 100 shot and there was no bog. Once you get a big cam, when you launch it brings the rpms down in a range that the cam is not doing much. And no matter what rpm you launch it does nothing but wear down your clutch much faster. You either need more power or less weight. The cheapest solution is try to get as much weight off your front end as possible. If your willing to live without your AC then take it out, move the battery to the back, ABS delete, etc etc. Or more gear, such as 3.90 or 4.10. Since you have a 6 speed I see no reason why you couldn't go to a 4.10, then take some weight off the front. Its all about weight distribution and sounds like your center of gravity is too far forward. There is no easy solution to that problem.
Last edited by htownws6; 03-05-2013 at 08:00 AM.
03-05-2013, 12:34 PM
#50
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I remember going through this several years ago when I was about 400+ rwhp and full weight. When I ran NA it would bog on the line. Then I would hit it with 100 shot and there was no bog. Once you get a big cam, when you launch it brings the rpms down in a range that the cam is not doing much. And no matter what rpm you launch it does nothing but wear down your clutch much faster. You either need more power or less weight. The cheapest solution is try to get as much weight off your front end as possible. If your willing to live without your AC then take it out, move the battery to the back, ABS delete, etc etc. Or more gear, such as 3.90 or 4.10. Since you have a 6 speed I see no reason why you couldn't go to a 4.10, then take some weight off the front. Its all about weight distribution and sounds like your center of gravity is too far forward. There is no easy solution to that problem.
and the thing is I dont want more gear. I dont like the fact of almost going into fifth gear and i have seen a couple of F bodys out here that switched the gears to 4.10's and 4.30's and the actually went a tenth slower. and these are pretty consistent drivers so i know its not a driver mod.
Maybe i need qa1's up front to transfer the weight better but my question before was should i put the lower control arms in the BOTTOM whole of the relocation brackets to give me more forward bite?
03-05-2013, 01:11 PM
#51
I would try the lowest hole. I was hitting the tires to hard in the lowested hole and bounching back up and unloading the tires. Stock shocks at the time. So give it a try. Some adjustable shocks in front would help get the front up quicker then need rears to keep it there.
03-05-2013, 01:24 PM
#52
Going to a lower gear almost ALWAYS helps you in the 1/4 mile provided your traction is as good and you don't run out of gear at the end. I never heard of anyone going slower with a lower ratio except for those reasons. Have you seen this calculator??
http://www.wallaceracing.com/calcrgr.php
QA1's will most certainly help, but I'm not convinced will completely cure your problem. As for the relocation bracket question see above post^^
03-06-2013, 09:46 AM
#53
1.5X 60' here. 3800+lb's. My setup:
295/50/16 M/T's on stock wheels, tires set at ~20psi
KYB Adjustable shocks that everyone hates.Fronts full loose, rears set at half
panhard/TA/LCA's with relocations
3.50 rear gear in the 9"
Stock swaybar intact
2 step set at 4k
slip clutch and go.
295/50/16 M/T's on stock wheels, tires set at ~20psi
KYB Adjustable shocks that everyone hates.Fronts full loose, rears set at half
panhard/TA/LCA's with relocations
3.50 rear gear in the 9"
Stock swaybar intact
2 step set at 4k
slip clutch and go.
03-14-2013, 02:16 AM
#55
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Ok so the results are in, the bottom whole worked like a charm. I got my new personal best of 11.126 @ 119. It has more in it. I was bogging all night so I'm going to go new week with more tire pressure.
03-14-2013, 08:25 AM
#57
Sweet. Next time start at your air pressure of your personal best and bump it up a half pound increments. You will find that sweet spot to get the tire spinning a couple of revolutions then no bog,better 60ft time and new personal best then the crowd goes wild haha.
03-14-2013, 12:20 PM
#59
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Sweet. Next time start at your air pressure of your personal best and bump it up a half pound increments. You will find that sweet spot to get the tire spinning a couple of revolutions then no bog,better 60ft time and new personal best then the crowd goes wild haha.
