calling studderin and all m6 guys for 60ft help
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Ok so the best 60ft I can manage is a 1.61 on MT et streets 26x11.5x16. I launch the car from 5500-6500 depending on track prep and other factors. I have qa1 double adjustable in the rear only, bmr adjustable torque arm set at -2 degrees , sphon lca with the stock mounting brackets, front sway bar is still on. I also have a sphon drag sway bar in the back.
Now I usually bog or I spin coming out the whole. I run tubes in my tires, run at 11-11.5 psi in the tires to get my best 60. Usually any more pressure makes me spin depending on track prep.
I have my qa1s set at 1 on compression and 1 on rebound to get my best 60 as well. Any stiffer like some say on here I just spin like Im on slick ice
Now if any of you guys with m6 cars cutting 1.5xx 60ft or better like Mr studderin please chime in. What settings should I put the shocks at and why? Should I run 28 " tires ? is it a must to have the front sway bar disconnected for m6 cars?
Thanks for reading
Now I usually bog or I spin coming out the whole. I run tubes in my tires, run at 11-11.5 psi in the tires to get my best 60. Usually any more pressure makes me spin depending on track prep.
I have my qa1s set at 1 on compression and 1 on rebound to get my best 60 as well. Any stiffer like some say on here I just spin like Im on slick ice
Now if any of you guys with m6 cars cutting 1.5xx 60ft or better like Mr studderin please chime in. What settings should I put the shocks at and why? Should I run 28 " tires ? is it a must to have the front sway bar disconnected for m6 cars?
Thanks for reading
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you run 28 for more foot print then 26, then gear for that tire size you run
those tires are kinds small for that power. I think next time you can change to 28s and gear for that
take the front sway off, and get some shcoks up there singles at the least, dbl is you can afford it.
the rear shocks are way to loose. tighten the rebound up a little Id there 10-12way go to 4-5 the compression is really low, crank that up, try 6-8 and might have to go more.
thats really low psi too. I never run more less then 14, but never ran tube before. did you find that works better for you?
dont go to 28s on thouse. you could go to 410s with them. but to go to 28s you need to re gear to 456s or even 471 or whatever the 9' has if you going low 120s
those tires are kinds small for that power. I think next time you can change to 28s and gear for that
take the front sway off, and get some shcoks up there singles at the least, dbl is you can afford it.
the rear shocks are way to loose. tighten the rebound up a little Id there 10-12way go to 4-5 the compression is really low, crank that up, try 6-8 and might have to go more.
thats really low psi too. I never run more less then 14, but never ran tube before. did you find that works better for you?
dont go to 28s on thouse. you could go to 410s with them. but to go to 28s you need to re gear to 456s or even 471 or whatever the 9' has if you going low 120s
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you run 28 for more foot print then 26, then gear for that tire size you run
those tires are kinds small for that power. I think next time you can change to 28s and gear for that
take the front sway off, and get some shcoks up there singles at the least, dbl is you can afford it.
the rear shocks are way to loose. tighten the rebound up a little Id there 10-12way go to 4-5 the compression is really low, crank that up, try 6-8 and might have to go more.
thats really low psi too. I never run more less then 14, but never ran tube before. did you find that works better for you?
dont go to 28s on thouse. you could go to 410s with them. but to go to 28s you need to re gear to 456s or even 471 or whatever the 9' has if you going low 120s
those tires are kinds small for that power. I think next time you can change to 28s and gear for that
take the front sway off, and get some shcoks up there singles at the least, dbl is you can afford it.
the rear shocks are way to loose. tighten the rebound up a little Id there 10-12way go to 4-5 the compression is really low, crank that up, try 6-8 and might have to go more.
thats really low psi too. I never run more less then 14, but never ran tube before. did you find that works better for you?
dont go to 28s on thouse. you could go to 410s with them. but to go to 28s you need to re gear to 456s or even 471 or whatever the 9' has if you going low 120s
Yea I know 373 are way high for 28s but I don't want to change the gears cuz I cruise the car a lot and get great gas mileage with the 373.
The shocks are 24 way in the back. So ill tighten them up and take the front sway bar off and see what it does.
Now should the rebound be less than the compression in theory ?
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Id step up to some 4.30s and a 28" tire, then id tighten those rear shocks. The goal is to transfer the weight smoothly and slowly work its way back up going down the track. Your shocking those slicks so fast the suspension gets overwhelmed hence the spinning so much.
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So should the rebound be higher or lower than the compression ?
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I have a MWC rear with the long arm set around -2 with 3.89 gears, 28x10.5x15S tires at 10.5-11.5psi, starting line RPM is 4500-6000 depending on track. I only have QA1 singles in the rear for now and run those at 3 clicks from full stiff. I also have afco double adj in the front and used to have the QA1R's before those which I ran full loose to a couple clicks stiffer. Being able to adjust the extension of the shock to help weight transfer is a big help. I drove my car a lot on the street with the QA1R's and had no issues (Pretty sure I have them laying around somewhere with the spring cups). My car has gone 1.26 60' but usualy is around 1.3x
So I would ditch the sway bar for the track, put Ajd shocks up front and try a 28" tire. I would also shorten your burn out some, I did that and it helped me out this past weekend.
So I would ditch the sway bar for the track, put Ajd shocks up front and try a 28" tire. I would also shorten your burn out some, I did that and it helped me out this past weekend.
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Thanks for the info man. The cheapest and easiest route for me is to run the back shocks stiffer and take off the front sway bar. I have some used MT 28x10.5x15 and some billet specials in the shed that I need to get mounted to try them out. Gona be a awhile before I can make the money for some good front adjustable shocks. But those will be one of my next purchases.
Thanks guys for the help and will keep u updated on what the car is doing.
Thanks guys for the help and will keep u updated on what the car is doing.
Last edited by tyler ovel; 10-22-2012 at 06:03 PM.
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Thanks for the info man. The cheapest and easiest route for me is to run the back shocks stiffer and take off the front sway bar. I have some used MT 28x10.5x15 and some billet specials in the shed that I need to get mounted to try them out. Gona be a awhile before I can make the money for some good front adjustable shocks. But those will be one of my next purchases.
Thanks guys for the help and will keep u updated on what the car is doing.
Thanks guys for the help and will keep u updated on what the car is doing.
Sounds like a good start!
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Ok so the best 60ft I can manage is a 1.61 on MT et streets 26x11.5x16. I launch the car from 5500-6500 depending on track prep and other factors. I have qa1 double adjustable in the rear only, bmr adjustable torque arm set at -2 degrees , sphon lca with the stock mounting brackets, front sway bar is still on. I also have a sphon drag sway bar in the back.
Now I usually bog or I spin coming out the whole. I run tubes in my tires, run at 11-11.5 psi in the tires to get my best 60. Usually any more pressure makes me spin depending on track prep.
I have my qa1s set at 1 on compression and 1 on rebound to get my best 60 as well. Any stiffer like some say on here I just spin like Im on slick ice
Now if any of you guys with m6 cars cutting 1.5xx 60ft or better like Mr studderin please chime in. What settings should I put the shocks at and why? Should I run 28 " tires ? is it a must to have the front sway bar disconnected for m6 cars?
Thanks for reading
Now I usually bog or I spin coming out the whole. I run tubes in my tires, run at 11-11.5 psi in the tires to get my best 60. Usually any more pressure makes me spin depending on track prep.
I have my qa1s set at 1 on compression and 1 on rebound to get my best 60 as well. Any stiffer like some say on here I just spin like Im on slick ice
Now if any of you guys with m6 cars cutting 1.5xx 60ft or better like Mr studderin please chime in. What settings should I put the shocks at and why? Should I run 28 " tires ? is it a must to have the front sway bar disconnected for m6 cars?
Thanks for reading
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do use the 28s with the 373s
get LCA brakets if you have the car lowerd alot. that happends more if you tuck a 28 and get the rake out running 28 rear 26 front. bottem line on LCA is your gona want them to have a downward angle 1-3* anything for your setup. Just when you get to 0* or then run uphill then you need LCA brackets
get LCA brakets if you have the car lowerd alot. that happends more if you tuck a 28 and get the rake out running 28 rear 26 front. bottem line on LCA is your gona want them to have a downward angle 1-3* anything for your setup. Just when you get to 0* or then run uphill then you need LCA brackets
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do use the 28s with the 373s
get LCA brakets if you have the car lowerd alot. that happends more if you tuck a 28 and get the rake out running 28 rear 26 front. bottem line on LCA is your gona want them to have a downward angle 1-3* anything for your setup. Just when you get to 0* or then run uphill then you need LCA brackets
get LCA brakets if you have the car lowerd alot. that happends more if you tuck a 28 and get the rake out running 28 rear 26 front. bottem line on LCA is your gona want them to have a downward angle 1-3* anything for your setup. Just when you get to 0* or then run uphill then you need LCA brackets
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Get a two step and lower your launch rpm until you hook-you are wasting all your time spinning and wasting a lot of rubber with that huge burnout. But, it is SO much fun!
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my 2000 SS had qa1r's in front, single adjst qa1's in the rear. no front sway. full susp, and anti roll bar. 9" 4.86 gears, 26x10x15 stiff wall slick, 1.46 60ft on that pass.
The idea is to get the car moving and get the RPM's up, your hitting the tires with to much speed with those 3.73's.
i know your wanting to stick to the 3.73's, but you cant have your cake and eat it too....
The idea is to get the car moving and get the RPM's up, your hitting the tires with to much speed with those 3.73's.
i know your wanting to stick to the 3.73's, but you cant have your cake and eat it too....
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and I am not saying you need 4.86 gears. I am just trying to get you to think towards the Idea of why ***** working how is it, and why you really need more gear, to get the wheel speed down some and would help hook the car a little better.
and Yes I have ran 28's on my car, slowed my 60ft down some but ran better on the backhalf cause the 26's made my car go through the traps at around 8k.... it made good power till about 7700, but its fastest pass was with 26's and prolly mostly cause of the weight difference, plus the faster 60ft.
and Yes I have ran 28's on my car, slowed my 60ft down some but ran better on the backhalf cause the 26's made my car go through the traps at around 8k.... it made good power till about 7700, but its fastest pass was with 26's and prolly mostly cause of the weight difference, plus the faster 60ft.
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ya, not one t56 person I talked into going with more gear. Wasn't happier. The 373, "a around..street/strip. is old 1970s when nyou didnt have OD.
you have 2 OD gears so with my 465s 70 is still like 2K rpms. My fast cruising at 80mph is under 2500. its not like your gona be buzzing it over 3K all the time I think your worried about. it makes the car drive better and smoother with a big cam too. from a stop, and around town. you can use 5 and 6 gear
you have 2 OD gears so with my 465s 70 is still like 2K rpms. My fast cruising at 80mph is under 2500. its not like your gona be buzzing it over 3K all the time I think your worried about. it makes the car drive better and smoother with a big cam too. from a stop, and around town. you can use 5 and 6 gear
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ya, not one t56 person I talked into going with more gear. Wasn't happier. The 373, "a around..street/strip. is old 1970s when nyou didnt have OD.
you have 2 OD gears so with my 465s 70 is still like 2K rpms. My fast cruising at 80mph is under 2500. its not like your gona be buzzing it over 3K all the time I think your worried about. it makes the car drive better and smoother with a big cam too. from a stop, and around town. you can use 5 and 6 gear
you have 2 OD gears so with my 465s 70 is still like 2K rpms. My fast cruising at 80mph is under 2500. its not like your gona be buzzing it over 3K all the time I think your worried about. it makes the car drive better and smoother with a big cam too. from a stop, and around town. you can use 5 and 6 gear