Guys who run slicks, please give me some info
10-30-2012, 02:08 AM
#21
I don't follow any organized racing too closely, but is there a minimum weight they have to run? If there is no minimum weight they have to run I can see getting carried away to make things light. If they have a minimum weight and they are doing that, they didn't build the car right if they are skimping on places of safety like that.
Most cars with a minimum weight will remove weight in certain areas so they can place weight in places that they want, I guess you are talking about rules that limit what they can modify.
I still have about a 1/3 of the steel body on my 68 Camaro with just fiberglass front, doors, and trunk lid. Chromoly full cage, front spindle mounts. Rear end is not a lightweight MW 9inch and we use tubes in the rears. The block is cast iron and has a powerglide. I have two Full sized optima batteries in the trunk and with a 190 lb driver we still come in at 2120lbs before a run. If I went carbon fiber everything, race battery, and went with an aluminum engine block I know I could shave off 150 lbs.
I can't see anyone needing a doorslammer under 2,000 lbs, I'm almost there and I'm not even trying hard yet. I actually need more weight on the rear tires for the upcoming increase in power.
Most cars with a minimum weight will remove weight in certain areas so they can place weight in places that they want, I guess you are talking about rules that limit what they can modify.
I still have about a 1/3 of the steel body on my 68 Camaro with just fiberglass front, doors, and trunk lid. Chromoly full cage, front spindle mounts. Rear end is not a lightweight MW 9inch and we use tubes in the rears. The block is cast iron and has a powerglide. I have two Full sized optima batteries in the trunk and with a 190 lb driver we still come in at 2120lbs before a run. If I went carbon fiber everything, race battery, and went with an aluminum engine block I know I could shave off 150 lbs.
I can't see anyone needing a doorslammer under 2,000 lbs, I'm almost there and I'm not even trying hard yet. I actually need more weight on the rear tires for the upcoming increase in power.
10-30-2012, 07:47 PM
#24
They're no worse then running a tube weight wise, maybe a lb or 2 difference? (beadlock wheel with no tube vs a screwed wheel with a tube in the same tire)
I still have too much other stuff to do to pull weight if I find the car to be too heavy for what I want it to do to worry about the wheel weight right now... for what I'm asking from the car vs what it's capable of... it's really of no concern at this point.
11-01-2012, 08:12 AM
#26
I have had tires leak down in 2 weeks.... And I've had tires that have leaked down in a couple days.... All depends on how porous the tires are, bead quality, how many of the screws went all the way thru the tire. Dbl beadlocks, with the inner surface of the tire coated twice with dish soap to prevent the tire itself from leaking and they've been inflated for over a month and haven't lost anything.
