cranny

I am planning eventually to move on from drag radials to full on slicks. I just have a few questions about mounting them.

From what I understand, a slick may need to run a tube inside. Should this always be the case or does it depend on what brand of slicks you run?

Does rwhp make a difference if it needs a tube or not? This would be around 450rwhp with a race weight of 3000 lbs.

If running tubes inside, I understand they will need to be screwed to the wheels. Is it just a matter of drilling holes through the wheels and screwing into the tire bead? Are there specific screws made for this application?

Are most tire shops capable or competent enough to mount a tube inside a slick? Or would I be better off calling around and see if someone specializes in this? Just from dealing with and talking to some tire shops, I would almost feel like I would be wasting my time even asking them about this.

Sorry for all the questions and appreciate any info you guys can provide. I figure I would post this here, as the wheel and tire section is mostly about show type wheels.

tyler ovel

iTrader: (1)

it is not nessiciary to run tubes in ur tires but it does make it more stable going down the track on low psi.. at least it does for me.

i ran with out tubes many times and alot of old school racers dont prefer tubes because if you pop a tube they ususally pop right away andair leaks out fas. with no tube air slowly leaks out.

you dont need to screw the tires in but it always helps (mine have no screws). and yes there are specific screw set you can get from summit or jegs that is ment for beed locking a drag rim.

and my local americas tire takes off all my slicks with tubes and mounts them. have never had a problem

fly boy_1

iTrader: (4)

How low can you go on psi before youd need (maybe just benefit from) tubes? Regarding the rim screws, at what power level would you want to consider using them?

subhumanzz

iTrader: (46)

if you run tubes you want to run screws. if the tire slips on the rim its going to rip the valve stem off. my car is 3200 lb race ready and i dont run tubes. tire psi is set at 18 psi cold and i have no problems. any screws will work, look at summit or jegs and they actually sell a template and screws together.

Doug G

From my understanding tubes are optional. Never ran tubes.
One trick is to wipe dish soap all inside the slicks and let dry, as it slows the air leaking down. Slicks leak more so than regular tires.

cranny

How fast are we talking in regards to leaking down? Enough in between runs to make a difference, or a slower leak that may take a couple days?

As for valve stems possibly getting ripped off with a tire spinning on the rim, would using bolt on valve stems make a difference?

subhumanzz

iTrader: (46)

bottom line is if you tube them you screw them. mine dont leak down at all. i did the sidewalls with dish soap and i regularly switch sides.

studderin

iTrader: (28)

read the MT tech bulletins on all these tire questions
they know race tires

fex77k

iTrader: (2)

I run tubes in my slicks, just so they don't leak down. When you are looking for a screw make sure it has a bit of a shoulder on it so you can drive it into the rubber and not just drill a hole in it. Also make sure the where the bead rides is clean.

I've heard of dish soap, never done it myself. I've run as low as 6psi but I would never try that with out screws.

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

A couple good coats of dish soap on the inside of the tires will help stop them from leaking down alot. I did this with the last set I bought, and even with the double beadlock wheels and no tubes they don't leak a bit.

I would screw the tires to the rim, or run a beadlock wheel regardless... tires are going to move on the rim if you don't alot with a stick car.

studderin

iTrader: (28)

I plan on running tubes and screws on my new wheel setup. I just got them already, the tubes to weight alot. But noticed my old tires the sidewalls got really beat up, they had tons of tread, but the sidewalls looked all waved up. Dismounted them and they don't even stand up they fall into them selfs, the new set dose. thats a m6 I leave off the limiter everytime it beats them up, So been told this is the better way to go, Im gona find out

cranny

Is it hard finding a tire shop that can mount slicks properly with tubes?

Also, do you guys running slicks have the wheels balanced, or does it not matter?

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

I had issues finding a guy to mount tires on my Novartis without bending them... Had those damn things straitened every time the tires got changed That is the reason I went to a double headlock so I can mount the things myself and be done with it. You need to find someone that understands they are a lw racing wheel, and not a steel dump truck wheel and you should be fine... Ask other racers in your area, chances are they already went thru the pain and know who to go to

cranny

What makes a double beadlock wheel different that you are able to mount them yourself?

Like you said, that's what im afraid of is some tire monkey bending my wheels.

fex77k

iTrader: (2)

You don't have to pull the bead off. You can just unscrew them.


There is really only two downsides to beadlocks, price and weight. They are worth it if you want the safety and ease of maintenance.

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

Sander engineering sells a double headlock at roughly 60% what weld charges for them..... And they are sfi approved do you know they're not junk. They're not as heavy as you'd think either....

orange88ls1s-dime

I've seen beadlocks add a 10th of a second to a 7second top sportsman car . So the weight does play a factor

studderin

iTrader: (28)

notice the pros dont run beadlocks anymore

orange88ls1s-dime

I have noticed. But alot of guys seem to be following the stuff they are doing in ADRL. Those cars are paper machete .Have you seen how desperate they are with weight reductions. They will take their safety in to their hands just to save a pound. The lower control arms don't even run a heim anymore. Too heavy.or the bolt on front and rear subframes CAN'T handle more than 1/8mile runs.
I think they are a little rediculous , just an opinion though
Beaudacious

noice

I don't follow any organized racing too closely, but is there a minimum weight they have to run? If there is no minimum weight they have to run I can see getting carried away to make things light. If they have a minimum weight and they are doing that, they didn't build the car right if they are skimping on places of safety like that.

Most cars with a minimum weight will remove weight in certain areas so they can place weight in places that they want, I guess you are talking about rules that limit what they can modify.

I still have about a 1/3 of the steel body on my 68 Camaro with just fiberglass front, doors, and trunk lid. Chromoly full cage, front spindle mounts. Rear end is not a lightweight MW 9inch and we use tubes in the rears. The block is cast iron and has a powerglide. I have two Full sized optima batteries in the trunk and with a 190 lb driver we still come in at 2120lbs before a run. If I went carbon fiber everything, race battery, and went with an aluminum engine block I know I could shave off 150 lbs.

I can't see anyone needing a doorslammer under 2,000 lbs, I'm almost there and I'm not even trying hard yet. I actually need more weight on the rear tires for the upcoming increase in power.