javier1730

iTrader: (16)

Any body running the racecraft 2" drop spindles..do they work with stock brakes? i cant find information about them online. thanks

studderin

iTrader: (28)

no you need 3rd gen parts as listed on there site.

javier1730

iTrader: (16)

And what about wheels choice...i dont see a wheel hub on them...unless you need spindle mount wheels?

5.3LJimmy

iTrader: (10)

I have them. You will need to purchase the third gen brake package with the spindles. This comes with the hub assembly to mount the rotor and wheel. You will not be able to run the stock wheels with this setup.

javier1730

iTrader: (16)

Thanks for the info man...what about racestars 17x4.5, will they work?....also is there any disadvantages on going to the 3rd gen brakes?

5.3LJimmy

iTrader: (10)

I run a 15x4 front wheel and would think a 4.5 will fit. The third gen spindle and brake setup are lighter than the stock spindle with drag brakes. There is no disadvantage other than the wheel fitment.

ssvert99

iTrader: (26)

Give me a call! I have the spindles, brakes, and all the other suspension parts for you, as well as all the info you need. Same quality and great prices just like the rearend you have!

TurboStangJON

iTrader: (27)

Call Racecraft they make the best spindles.

studderin

iTrader: (28)

only come in 2inch drop, but can get them with a traperd hole sterring arm for the stock rock/ tierod setup, or drilled for a 1/2 or 5/8 both for a rod end/ endlink.
I have a set, and my stock 16x8 Z28 rims did not fit, they hit the top of the spindle, I also tried a set of 17 and 18 wider x 8/9inch rims. I posted all this with pics and weight of them and other spindles in my build thread. I forgot the numbers but I think comparing a stock spindle with the wheel; bearing ans lug nuts, and the racecraft with the strange hub with lugnuts, was.. 12.8 pounds? a spindle lighter (thats not the difference in rotor or caliper) I believe that was 103 pounds over stock brakes and everything. I have burhart spindles to, not really happy with them, the design sucks had to re-weld and gusset them from flexing. And they wear out ball joint dust boots faster, but you can get them in any drop you want.
I haven't gotten a set of 17x4.5 to test if they clear, I was wondering that myself.

you dont have to run drag brakes with them too BTW. You could put stock 3rd gen brakes on them if you wanted, I think you might need a cheap alum braket to bolt the calipers on. They had a link to that on there site about them. And I know you can run bigger brakes too, like a willwood 13' kit (for a 3rd gen)

Another thing is with 3rd gen brakes without running a bolt in wheel hub, and a old school spindle setup with a inner and outer wheel bearing and castle nut. And the dust boot size of some brake kits will be larger, On my strange drag brake kit, the dust boot sticks out more then the bolt in centercap on greg weld/ race stars, so you just drill a hole in the centercap for the dust cap to fit. Same with my champion wheels. But holshot makes a taller centercap that should clear. Just something else to look out for, about running wheels.
The racecraft one are really nice, my alinmet was still good changing them and brake kit only. Didnt have to change for them, and bumpsteer was good (still ran a stock rack tho) there strong too. Street drove about half a summer on them, and bent a set of upper arms and never had any problems with them. Other then a 2inch drop was more then my car wanted, and it took away some of my front end extension. Race craft and others said it shouldn't but it did, and a few other guys PM'd me and found the same thing?

TurboStangJON

iTrader: (27)

Like others have mentioned stay away from the Burkharts. Mine came loose on multiple occasions only to be told to tighten the nut. The last thing I want to worry about is the spindle falling off during a run. Furthermore, I was told they would work with stock control arms and that was a false statement. The top of the spindle would wedge into the upper control arm before it reached full travel thus eliminating my ability to steer the car. I expressed my concerns and was told that around that travel I wouldn't need to be steering the car because it would be in a wheelie. I don't like being told "it's okay you won't need to steer the car when that happens". I moved on and purchased a set of control arms only to find a few months later the spindle was loose as ****.

studderin

iTrader: (28)

Ha, I was told the same thing. What did you do about it? did you take them apart? I had 6 passes and 50 street miles, the ovaled the sleeve the shaft fit into, no way "tighten the nut more" was going to help anything. Somone is gona get hurt with that setup. You have 5 studs holding the wheel on the hub. Then use a thin jam nut (1/8 is nylon!) to hold the whole hub on the car? I guess the caliper on the rotor would hold it on, but I don't want to test that

I cut the end of the shaft off, and welded the backside right up. And welded around the front.. and $50 to strip and re powdercoat

TurboStangJON

iTrader: (27)

I did the same thing, just used a gusset on the top and bottom for the front then welded the back.

javier1730

iTrader: (16)

thanks for the good info..the reason i posted the thread is because i already had the spindle (Racecraft 2" drop) good thing i didn't get the burkhart i guess....i just wasn't sure about the brakes and wheels...any ways ill be ordering the strange 3rd gen brakes from Midwest this week and, the wheels get here today, so ill test fit them and see how that goes...so far has anybody had a bad experience with the Racecraft spindles?

toolpimp

I do not no why you are having that kind of trouble I run same spindle for 2 years an never had any trouble mostly on strip only. something I dont understand is you complain about spindle not working with stock a-arms you talk to chuck but when you complain about spindle it self you say nothing I would have at least called an talk to him about said problem, before i would have done what you did here chuck is a stand up guy you have a problem he will stand behind it I have no problems with his Fab you need to call him an talk.

TurboStangJON

iTrader: (27)

In case you have issues with reading I did call and talk to him multiple times about problems with his products. I was told by Steve on here that they would work with stock a-arms, then when I called Chuck about the issue he said they never tried them with stock control arms. His solution was to give me 10% off of a new set of upper and lower arms. Selling someone more products isn't really being stand-up, that's called drumming up more business. I called and talked to him about every problem so don't come on here talking like you have a clue. I'm also glad to see that all 5 of your posts are regarding Burkhart no matter the subject. I'm sorry if I said a negative thing about your bro-mance.

Chuck@BurkhartChassis

hay guys i just wanted to personally apoiogize for the way thing were handled with your spindles obviously it wasnt handled in correct manner.and thank you for your positive input on helping me correct the issues i had with my spindles in the past. when i designed the spindle i tried to come up with the lighest way possible to build them and still be safe.i have many sets out ther with no issues and never had a failure.the steering arm flex and shaft movment have been corrected.iam sorry for any inconvenience this has caused you.

ty_ty13

iTrader: (42)

is this a race car that sees only track time? you do realize that a 2"drop will put the car on the ground....

I use the Burkhart spindles at stock height on my racecar. i use the extreme light version. we noticed a little flex in the steering ear when we got them out and welded a 3/16 plate on top to stiffen it up... car has been running well with them for a long time.

unless its a full time racecar i would leave the stock spindles on.