13.1 @ 110 ^^

Also uploading a video when I get home tonight of in car audio of shifts.

"cammed n boosted" on you tube is my handle, I believe there are 4 other videos of more runs out of the car on the same night.

01 SS M6

Mod List:
Tune (Mark Roman)
224/228 114 lsa 595 lift
Comp 918 kit
Ported oil pump
SLP underdrive's
30lb Injectors
ported Potz throttle body
Pacesetter LT's ory
MSD's
K&N FIPK Intake
Pro 5.0 shifter/Lou's Short stick
Monster 3 Clutch
Subframe's
DMH 3" Cutout (open)
17x11's with sumi 315's on the back (Tires were shot, on car when purchased ((Yes I know sumi's are trash))
I was told 4.10's but I'm not 100% on that.

I'm out of the country until September, haven't purchased slicks, not trying to nuke the stock 10 bolt. Looking to do a 12b when I return.

Also, would like to add TSP 5.3 2.5 heads, with a custom grind cam, somewhat similar to the MS3 when I return.

EVERYTHING on the car as it sits was from the previous owner. I had the tune done and thats about it.

No weight reduction and no suspension other than subframes.


Basically looking to see what the Experts believe I should've been at if I was rocking 4.10's wether or not they're actually in or not. and a set of DR's with the way the car sits now.

Thanks for your time, hit me up with anyother questions you all may have.

Also, I believe my 60 was a horrid 2.2.

 

I realize spinning halfway through 2nd was quite a bit of time lost as well lol.

 

110 mph will run you about 12.1-12.2 .your only problem here is traction. Put some tire to it and run your time

 

Rog, will a set of DR's or Slicks just completely nuke that 10 bolt, or should I make at least a few passes on it?

Also going to have to install a line lock. A clutch dump burnout wont happen (annoying), idk if its ASR that likes to kick in even though its off, but my 04 Z06 did the same thing, but the 05 GTO didnt have a problem at all..

 

You will be better off with a stiff sidewall slick, it will give more than a DR and actually help the 10 bolt survive. IMO when you get it to dead hood and a 1.7 60' or so you should run a 12.1@114. Adding the heads would take a back seat to a 12 bolt or 9" myself

 

Thanks, I appreciate it! Yea, definitely going with the 12b before any other mods, along with suspension.

As for the line lock, I assume thats the fix?

 

60' is the key my 13.20 has a 1.85 60 ft

 

The answers to your problems are the obvious.... traction. The line locks easy to install and you are going to need it with a good tire. I found it hard to heat em up enough with a clutch dump/power brake

 

Thanks, so what did you do to compensate instead of dumping and braking? Slipped off it?

 

I had to put a line lock in. There was no real way to do it any other way in my eyes

 

Wow that's almost what my car ran stock. Something is wrong in that tune imo 110mph is weak as hell for a car that should make 400rwhp. And that was with spinning! 60 times drop a few mph on a dead hooking pass vs a spinning pass. Post the whole timeslip.

 

Thats what Im saying. The time slips are in my car, in America. Can't get to em at the moment.

 

Well when you get back post them and then ask. You can't get a prescription from the doctor without him knowing all of the symptoms. FYI my old motor (stock LS1 with a cam, intake/tb, headers, bolt ons and a tune set on kill) has been low 11s around 119 (with a stock gear 10 bolt) on motor.

 

Here's the slip.

 

Your 60' is why you have not broke into the 12's yet. No matter how much power you make it is pointless if you cant put it down.

 

Fully understand that, I still expected a higher trap I guess. Maybe I just had to high of hopes lol.

 

Since you run in California, how far above sea level is that track? Higher DA will kill mph too.

Ditto for the line lock, it will save your rear brakes also.