DIY: ABS delete
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From: Winchester, TN
DIY: ABS delete I am interested in seeing some of your guys DIY ABS deletes..
If you don't mind showing how you route everything and most importantly the supplies you used it would be awesome.
I have a proportioning valve right now but other than that, I am kind of in the dark as to what I need to do to accomplish this project.
If you don't mind showing how you route everything and most importantly the supplies you used it would be awesome.
I have a proportioning valve right now but other than that, I am kind of in the dark as to what I need to do to accomplish this project.
The hardest part of this is flaring the stock lines. Because you don't have alot of room in the engine bay to flare them. Especially with the motor in the car. Stock lines are metric and hard as hell to flare. I double flared mine at 45 degrees.
Later I was told that a single flare at 37 degrees was a better flare. When you cut out some of your stock lines, practice on flaring them first.
Your replacement lines will be 3/16" and alot softer. Easier to cut and flare.
You will need some 3/16" brake lines, tees, tube nuts. You will need to convert the fittings on your master cylinder from metric to 3/16". I had the SLP LL kit on mine before I deleted the ABS. So I had the front brake line from the master to the LL already.
The back brake line fitting at the master, I had to get an adaptor. AN Male to Metric
Flare Adaptor.( -03AN x -12mm x 1.00 Male Flare. ) Then a ( -03AN Tube Nut & Tube Sleeve ), for your 3/16" brake line. The flare on your 3/16" brake line needs to be a 37 degree flare to mate up to this adaptor. I found this at Godman Hi-Performance.
Memphis, Tn 1-800-456-2369. Around $13.00. I looked everywhere for this adaptor.
I got all my fittings & brake line at O'Reillys Auto Parts. Rented the 45 degree flare tool and brake line bender there also. I don't think they have a 37 degree flare tool.
I had Godman flare my 37 degree line for the adaptor.
I'll try and get pics today. And more info.
Later I was told that a single flare at 37 degrees was a better flare. When you cut out some of your stock lines, practice on flaring them first.
Your replacement lines will be 3/16" and alot softer. Easier to cut and flare.
You will need some 3/16" brake lines, tees, tube nuts. You will need to convert the fittings on your master cylinder from metric to 3/16". I had the SLP LL kit on mine before I deleted the ABS. So I had the front brake line from the master to the LL already.
The back brake line fitting at the master, I had to get an adaptor. AN Male to Metric
Flare Adaptor.( -03AN x -12mm x 1.00 Male Flare. ) Then a ( -03AN Tube Nut & Tube Sleeve ), for your 3/16" brake line. The flare on your 3/16" brake line needs to be a 37 degree flare to mate up to this adaptor. I found this at Godman Hi-Performance.
Memphis, Tn 1-800-456-2369. Around $13.00. I looked everywhere for this adaptor.
I got all my fittings & brake line at O'Reillys Auto Parts. Rented the 45 degree flare tool and brake line bender there also. I don't think they have a 37 degree flare tool.
I had Godman flare my 37 degree line for the adaptor.
I'll try and get pics today. And more info.
if the cars 4 channel, pull one of the rear lines and get the rear rubber line with the T on the rear end for 3 channel. hooks right to one of you stock lines, and saves a few pounds for free, and makes more room. And you only have to flair the end of one stock line. that was a bitch. A cut off wheel cut the line better, square it up, and de burr it, and clean it out good. It flairs better, that way. A tubing cutter I found bent the line, there too hard. And get a good fairing too no cheap junk. put the 3/16 nut over the stock line flair it (under the firewall, has that nice stairt spot, or behind the steering shaft) and work off that.
I post some pics too, t56 car so I didnt hind the PP, or line under the master. Kept them open like ^^^ to get room to change the master, and everything else, but still lots of motor room
https://ls1tech.com/forums/11093118-post7.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/15067049-post518.html
I post some pics too, t56 car so I didnt hind the PP, or line under the master. Kept them open like ^^^ to get room to change the master, and everything else, but still lots of motor room
https://ls1tech.com/forums/11093118-post7.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/15067049-post518.html
Last edited by studderin; Feb 16, 2013 at 02:54 PM.
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how can u tell what channel abs u have?? my car still has the pump but no sensors on either corner.
i dont know if still having the abs but not active is causing my r/f caliper to stick?? i have already bleed the system and replaced the caliper but still drags more than its supposed too.
i dont know if still having the abs but not active is causing my r/f caliper to stick?? i have already bleed the system and replaced the caliper but still drags more than its supposed too.
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Here is is a pic of the SJM kit I installed on my car. Its fits really well. One trick I used to make life easy was instead of dealing with the headache of flaring all the lines inside the engine bay, I just used some swagelok fittings. They are stainless steel dual ferrule compression fittings that are rated for 3000 psi. All I did was cut the lines slide the fitting over the line and tighten it down according to the swagelok spec and that's it.
have any of you switched to the manual brake set up...bmr makes a kit and was just curious how you liked it or if there is a better version...and so to say you were to drive it on the street would it be workable...mine is stick and it has a big cam so it doesnt get much vacuum anyways and do you need a porportioning valve when you delete the abs? or does it just send equal pressure to front and rear...sorry for tall the questions
Here is is a pic of the SJM kit I installed on my car. Its fits really well. One trick I used to make life easy was instead of dealing with the headache of flaring all the lines inside the engine bay, I just used some swagelok fittings. They are stainless steel dual ferrule compression fittings that are rated for 3000 psi. All I did was cut the lines slide the fitting over the line and tighten it down according to the swagelok spec and that's it.
Not the greatest photo, but you can see where I just used the stock lines and just used 3/16 fittings from O'Reiley's and some basic brake line.
On my 95, I Used a manual brake M/C so its a little different, but same concept. I ran all new lines for the front and just used an in-line union to the stock rear line.
On my 95, I Used a manual brake M/C so its a little different, but same concept. I ran all new lines for the front and just used an in-line union to the stock rear line.
Blazinhd, you do have to use a proportioning valve otherwise your rear will lock up before the front. Question since were on the topic, I'm considering doing the SJM setup, does anyone use this and daily drive there's? I never use abs and unless you drive in shitty weather I don't see the need to have abs. Thanks for pics as well guys
They were not cheap they might have been 6 or 8 bucks a piece, but they were worth it for how easy they made the job. I was wrong about the 3,000 psi rating they are actually good for up to 11,000 psi lol, and they can be taken apart and put back together if needed.
http://i248.photobucket.com/albums/g...d/IMG_4062.jpg
Automatic so I used the clutch master bracket for the prop valve. Line lock noid is down behind the driver inner fender plastic and I ran the passenger front inside the plastic and under the radiator behind the air deflector.
Last edited by sweetbmxrider; Feb 19, 2013 at 10:40 AM.
Can anyone confirm the fittings needed? All I want to do is delete the abs block since I have no use for it. I'm not adding line lock or a prop valve. I could just use 2 3/16" t fittings correct (4 channel car)?
