Here's a Diagram For Battery Relocation
03-14-2013, 11:11 AM
#21
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Location: Catlettsburg, Ky
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Does this theory make any sense? If the end result is still a car that does when the switch is shut off, I'd say it's as good as any
03-14-2013, 07:00 PM
#22
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This was sent to me from a friend and I followed it....works fine w/o issues.
I like using the ford solenoid, since the wire is only hot during cranking.
11-07-2013, 10:49 AM
#24
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Wow. now yall some smart fellas. I seen alot of people suggesting on forums to use only one 0/1 ga from the rear battery's pos. to like a front dist. hub that splits off the pos. connection not only to the alternator but this hub splits it to the accessory fuse block and splits it to the starter. I'm like wow, now that's lazy and cheap to not do 2 pos cables. Think if your electrical sys. creates voltage spikes and for the battery to absorb them, the spikes have to travel really far so more than likely you may blow fuses in accessory circuits. Another good thing someone said was running having 2 pos. cables from the battery to the front (with the one from alt. to bat) was to make sure the battery gets charge is another good reason I liked.
11-07-2013, 12:03 PM
#25
wow. Now yall some smart fellas. I seen alot of people suggesting on forums to use only one 0/1 ga from the rear battery's pos. To like a front dist. Hub that splits off the pos. Connection not only to the alternator but this hub splits it to the accessory fuse block and splits it to the starter. I'm like wow, now that's lazy and cheap to not do 2 pos cables. Think if your electrical sys. Creates voltage spikes and for the battery to absorb them, the spikes have to travel really far so more than likely you may blow fuses in accessory circuits. Another good thing someone said was running having 2 pos. Cables from the battery to the front (with the one from alt. To bat) was to make sure the battery gets charge is another good reason i liked.
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Capown (12-01-2020)
05-09-2015, 07:31 AM
#29
Back up. Some people were asking.
Little story, about a month ago I put my trans back in the car, got in a hurry and when I mounted the starter I cram the starter wire up out of the way.
Well, it was laying on the header, got to the staging lanes and was next up to run, started seeing smoke from the hood, CAR DIES. Pop the hood, jump out to see WTF is going on. Something on fire, put it out with my fire extinguisher. Always have one in the car.
Turned out the starter wire caught fire and burnt into. BLEW the 150 amp fuse. I think that fuse saved a lot of electrical problems.
Little story, about a month ago I put my trans back in the car, got in a hurry and when I mounted the starter I cram the starter wire up out of the way.
Well, it was laying on the header, got to the staging lanes and was next up to run, started seeing smoke from the hood, CAR DIES. Pop the hood, jump out to see WTF is going on. Something on fire, put it out with my fire extinguisher. Always have one in the car.
Turned out the starter wire caught fire and burnt into. BLEW the 150 amp fuse. I think that fuse saved a lot of electrical problems.
Last edited by RENE'S RAGE; 10-16-2015 at 09:59 AM.
05-11-2015, 06:23 PM
#32
I know that your thread is like 2 years old, but in thhe nhra rule book, they are very strict that NOTHING can bypass the on/off switch. A wire needs to go from the positive terminal, straight to the on/off switch, and nothing can connect in between or to the positive battery terminal itself. If a track is super ****, they could pop you on it.
05-11-2015, 09:43 PM
#35
From your diagram, it shows that you have the alternator wire between the cutoff and the battery terminal. Now I know that this would not cause any sort of issue, but I am just stating the rules. They are hard-headed like that. They see anything in between the terminal and cutoff and they are instantly like, "NOPE!" lol
Ask me how I know. Luckily for me, mine was just that I had like some gauges wire or something that I attached straight to the positive battery terminal, and they made me fix it.
Ask me how I know. Luckily for me, mine was just that I had like some gauges wire or something that I attached straight to the positive battery terminal, and they made me fix it.
05-14-2015, 11:39 AM
#38
Welding supply house for the 1/0 welding cable.
You'll have to measure the length. 25'-30'. You'll need some for battery to cutoff switch, battery ground and cutoff switch to distribution block.
#2 wire, cable lugs at Home Depot, Lowes.....
Distribution block and fuse at Auto Stereo Shop.
You'll have to measure the length. 25'-30'. You'll need some for battery to cutoff switch, battery ground and cutoff switch to distribution block.
#2 wire, cable lugs at Home Depot, Lowes.....
Distribution block and fuse at Auto Stereo Shop.
