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The only issue with fusing the ground side is that if the power were to short out the ALT being grounded by the housing/its attachment means that not all ground is fused....
that's why I would fuse that big cable that goes to the distribution block back by the battery after the shutoff so that if something happens to that cable it will pop the fuse, and I would fuse the ALT right at the ALT as well so that if something there happened to that wire, it would pop and not feed it to the wire.
Grounding the engine to the battery isn't a bad idea, but grounding the PCM directly to the battery, I would absolutely do. If you have a couple good ground cables running to the frame rails it likely will be more than enough, but it wouldn't hurt to run it to the battery itself.
I know with the good aftermarket ign. systems you have to ground them right to the battery to prevent issues with noise, etc. Guy that I have wiring my car runs a 4 ga ground from the back of the car to the front for grounding purposes, and then grounds the ign system on it's own wire to the battery as well.
Seems overkill but after all the comp cars he has wired, as well as pro stock, super stock, and other class cars I just trust him as his knowledge, is backed up with a tom of experience.
Here's everything you need, all in one kit. This is the standard kit with the remote switch option pictured. There are other options available like push/pull switch rod for outside action, remote charge port, full length ground cable, and full sealed battery box. These kits are recommended to be used with a dry cell or AGM type battery.
Just remember the battery has to be in a sealed box vented outside the car per nhra rules unless it is in the trunk with a bulkhead separating it from the drivers compartment.
Just remember the battery has to be in a sealed box vented outside the car per nhra rules unless it is in the trunk with a bulkhead separating it from the drivers compartment.
Thanks for the heads up. Read the script in the post.
"Here's everything you need, all in one kit. This is the standard kit with the remote switch option pictured. There are other options available like push/pull switch rod for outside action, remote charge port, full length ground cable, and full sealed battery box. These kits are recommended to be used with a dry cell or AGM type battery."
If you're moving the battery it has to be in a sealed box was more for the guys reading this. It wasn't meant for you Eric your knowledge is way past that.
If you're moving the battery it has to be in a sealed box was more for the guys reading this. It wasn't meant for you Eric your knowledge is way past that.
In the OP schematic, when cutoff switch is off you will have a live cable running the length of car. If in crash you could get something exposed, and even if car is "off" still be sparking away.
In the OP schematic, when cutoff switch is off you will have a live cable running the length of car. If in crash you could get something exposed, and even if car is "off" still be sparking away.
Is that legal?
Technically no, it is not legal to have the alternator hot wire on that side of the circuit. The proper switch and wiring setup like we supply in our kit has the alternator wire going to the switch itself on a separate pole that is cut off at the same time as the main power wire.
The alternator and switch setup requires a lot of extra wire, terminals and other things but that's one of the things you have to understand and realize the cost of when you get to this point of performance. The rules and safety aspect involved are there for everyone's best interest.
When I drew this diagram up almost 3 years ago, I was trying to help guys with f-body cars.
How to wire up their stock components, by mounting the battery in the back with a cutoff switch. I read the rule book and it said, " the cutoff switch must be connected to the positive side of the electrical system and must stop all electrical functions including magneto ignition."
I don't think the alternator is an electrical function. If you kill all the electrical functions, the car will die, killing the alternator also.
I might be misinterpreting the rule book.
It's true the way my diagram is, the wire going to the alternator from the battery will remain hot. But no amps on it. If it went to ground it would blow the 150 amp fuse I have on the negative side. That ground fuse protects the whole electrical system.
I've had it blow when my starter wire went to ground.
Now Eric is right about a 2 pole cutoff switch, which would kill the alternator wire also.
You could put a fuse in line with the alternator also. Or a inline diode, so the hot can't return to the alternator.
Like I said I might have misinterpreted the rule book.
I apologize if I'm wrong.
This has pass tech at several tracks. All they want to see is, if the car dies when the cutoff switch is pushed.
I used to run my alt wire to the same side of the post as the positive wire. Even though it shut the car off when the switch was thrown and I per the rule book I think it was legal, it still wasn't safe. So I moved the alt wire to the the other post. So now the positive cable from the battery was the only wire on 1 post.
Switch is thrown, nothing gets power. Much safer now.
I put this wiring diagram together and here's how I'm going to do it and what switches I'm going to use which conform to NHRA rule. For the kill switch, I want something rated for high amps and for it to have 2 poles, this way when I kill the power no wires are hot. You can't do that with a single pole switch wired per NHRA rules. I don't want the wire going to the starter to be hot when the starter isn't being used, so a Victory lap L492 with suppression diodes should do the trick. Most remote mount starter solenoids don't have the suppression diodes because they are for non EFI cars. Don't put one of those on a EFI car, as a voltage spike could mean bad news. Many 4 pole switches like the moroso 74102 have that second circuit rated for 20a max. The longacre 45782 is rated for 125a and 500a max on the alt circuit and 175a and 1000a max on the battery circuit. Now some may say why not put the remote starter solenoid in the trunk? Because then you have to run a THIRD wire through the car to power the fusebox. No thanks. Some people play around with that painless performance 50105 relay but not really needed for my setup.
I'm doing a battery relocation on my ws6 could I not run the power wire to the fuse block on the driver side then upgrade the wire from there to the starter
I put this wiring diagram together and here's how I'm going to do it and what switches I'm going to use which conform to NHRA rule. For the kill switch, I want something rated for high amps and for it to have 2 poles, this way when I kill the power no wires are hot. You can't do that with a single pole switch wired per NHRA rules. I don't want the wire going to the starter to be hot when the starter isn't being used, so a Victory lap L492 with suppression diodes should do the trick. Most remote mount starter solenoids don't have the suppression diodes because they are for non EFI cars. Don't put one of those on a EFI car, as a voltage spike could mean bad news. Many 4 pole switches like the moroso 74102 have that second circuit rated for 20a max. The longacre 45782 is rated for 125a and 500a max on the alt circuit and 175a and 1000a max on the battery circuit. Now some may say why not put the remote starter solenoid in the trunk? Because then you have to run a THIRD wire through the car to power the fusebox. No thanks. Some people play around with that painless performance 50105 relay but not really needed for my setup.
Hello all, Good topic. I am getting ready to do a battery relocation in my project and I have a couple questions about the above schematic.
1st question; Would it be better to mount the fusses near the battery before they start their run through the car? If there was a short somewhere between the battery and the fuse (say where they run through the firewall), even if the fuse blew, the short would continue. Melting down your cable, possibly causing a fire. (I've seen this happen a few time on friends cars back in high school and our cheap-as-you-can-get-them amp and sub woofer combos lol.)
2nd question; Why run a second cable back to the switch from the alternator? It just gets funneled back into the same 1/0 cable before it gets back to the battery. If 1/0 cable is a little overkill anyways, why not just use the starter as a junction point, or even a distribution block somewhere in the engine bay?
I mean no offense by these questions, I'm truly curious and want to make sure I do it correctly on my ride lol.
Hello all, Good topic. I am getting ready to do a battery relocation in my project and I have a couple questions about the above schematic.
1st question; Would it be better to mount the fusses near the battery before they start their run through the car? If there was a short somewhere between the battery and the fuse (say where they run through the firewall), even if the fuse blew, the short would continue. Melting down your cable, possibly causing a fire. (I've seen this happen a few time on friends cars back in high school and our cheap-as-you-can-get-them amp and sub woofer combos lol.)
2nd question; Why run a second cable back to the switch from the alternator? It just gets funneled back into the same 1/0 cable before it gets back to the battery. If 1/0 cable is a little overkill anyways, why not just use the starter as a junction point, or even a distribution block somewhere in the engine bay?
I mean no offense by these questions, I'm truly curious and want to make sure I do it correctly on my ride lol.
Thanks
I know this is an old thread. but im also curious why you couldn't use a distribution block in the engine compartment instead of running a whole other wire
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