brandonppr

iTrader: (9)

I am still working on wiring. I had already had my PCM and fuseboxes all inboard under the dash, but it was never organized and was a huge mess. My PCM was just laying on the for on top of the tunnel. I now have a bracket and it is attached to the firewall. This aluminum is thinner than the aluminum for my battery mount and it is very light.

New bracket I made for my pcm


Here is the bracket installed. I riveted it to the firewall.


Here the PCM is mounted up. I put rubber isolators behind it.

LETZRIDE

iTrader: (6)

optima batteries weigh a ton...what about going to a race battery (granted not free). I've taken ideas from you to do my weight reduction so I dont know how much I can suggest...if it were me, I'd start getting down and dirtier.

I love the way your bracket looks for the radiator, but how about hole sawing it? Hole saw and dimple your battery bracket, that should still allow it to have strength yet still take out more weight. Do the same with your pcm bracket.

Was it Studderin that went so far as to drill holes in the throttle linkage?

What about working on things like rolling resistance as well, I know it's not exactly weight reduction, but I have an article saved on my other cpu that shows where to touch up and grind the tabs on the brake pads so that they don't stick and make contact with the rotor after your finish braking. I can't stand how if I take my brakes off the front wheels and bolt the rims back on, it free wheels...but bolt the brakes back on and you get half the spinnage if you're lucky.

Just something to think about

brandonppr

iTrader: (9)

The reason for going with the big battery is because we run it so much. We basicly run then turn the electric waterpump, 2 cooling fans on the radiator, and 1 cooling fan on the transcooler until the next run. We are doubled up in 3 classes each sometimes. I'm just afraid a smaller battery would run out of juice. I might would consider 2 small batteries though if they were lighter and have one as a back up. I just don't want to lose a race because of a dead battery.

I am interested in the article you have. Would you be able to send it to me?

LETZRIDE

iTrader: (6)

ya, I'll send the link when I get home

LETZRIDE

iTrader: (6)

another thing I was going to say, was what about going back through the wiring and shortening up where the ground wires are tied into the body? Like the power wires for something like the lights obviously has to go to the unit, but does the ground wire have to be so far away from it, or can you clip off a few inches here and there and shorten all those lengths up?

brandonppr

iTrader: (9)

I am just finishing up with my wiring. I have almost filled two 5 gallon buckets packed with wire that is not going back in. I think I have lost over 20lbs, but I will weigh it when I finish and find out.

brandonppr

iTrader: (9)

Okay, thanks.

LETZRIDE

iTrader: (6)

might be awhile before I find that link...seems it must've been saved to my comp prior to be bombing it due to the virus I got...which sucks, cause it took forever to find.

What did you cut out wire wise? Are you still running a bcm? radio?

Did you run into anything where like a ground for a light was also a ground wire for something else? That's my one worry about starting to cut out wires

brandonppr

iTrader: (9)

When I finish, I am going to post what I did. Lets just say that besides the engine harness, about 95% of the wire is gone. No radio.

brandonppr

iTrader: (9)

Here is an update. I will have final numbers once I figure out what everything the wiring in the car weighs.

Here is the beginning of what I eliminated.





BCM(not including wire)

11oz

BCM (with some of the wiring from it, but not all) 1lb 1oz



The power windows will work if you connect the large Blue and Brown wires on this connector, but I went further than this and eliminated more. The wire runs to the fuse block on the driver side to a breaker and then to the window wiring. This wiring has it's own harness and only needs power and the wires can be shortened. I am running ignition on to a breaker then to the wire that powers the module for the windows.



This is the block that runs thru the firewall. 8oz with a few wires still on it.



Stripping weight from the steering wheel. I don't have weights on these yet.


Fuse block with some wires still in it. 1lb 1oz

brandonppr

iTrader: (9)

Wire pile is growing


I can't remember what this goes to 3.5oz



Wires are still coming out



I may have gotten a little carried away on the column 2lb 10.5oz for this part



Not much left of the steering column



The steering shaft weighs 4lb 6.5oz



It's going to be hard to steer with this joint in it

brandonppr

iTrader: (9)

Light switch 8.75oz


Steering column parts






ignition switch






more parts

brandonppr

iTrader: (9)

The weight of the steering column shaft housing stripped down 5lbs 11oz



The weight of the bearing and clip 2oz


Bearing and clip installed. I cut off the steering column housing at the weld. Now it weighs 15.75oz


Now we are at 5lbs 5.25oz including shaft, cutoff housing, bearing, and clip

brandonppr

iTrader: (9)

I think it can be lighter. I cut out the weld and slid the shaft further back into the bracket.



Now I am going to cut it off at this point and rivet it together



Now it is about 9 oz which is almost a half pound lighter than before. it still has the bearing and clip installed


Now the shaft, bearing, clip, and housing is just under 5lbs

99tramsamc/fia

iTrader: (2)

Whats the weight?
i did the same thing, got mine down to 2450lbs.Just over 2600 w/me in it. And its a Transam t-top car.

brandonppr

iTrader: (9)

I've never gotten to weigh mine. I plan on going to beech bend in the next few weeks and putting it on the scale.

RENE'S RAGE

iTrader: (96)

I don't recall seeing one that lite.
I was thinking around 2700 lbs. was the lightest I recall.
Do you have a motor in the car. LOL.

brandonppr

iTrader: (9)

Now my total is at 15lbs 10oz including door panels and items below, and I have 84lbs 6oz to go to meet my goal:

I decided to ditch the console. Here is the weight with no lid or bezel for shifter 4lbs 14oz I had already took the lid off when it broke.



Now the bracket that holds it on we will call it 12oz

brandonppr

iTrader: (9)

Now adding the wire and a little plastic from the air duct I found I am at a total of 31lbs and 13oz included the last post and now I have 68lbs 3oz to go.

Here is the wire removed from the car. I took out the wires and other items that were used in rewiring the car before weighing. total weight of wires plus boxes/modules etc that were removed 16lbs




Some plastic I found in the air duct. I didn't get it all out because it was glued and hard to remove. 3oz

LETZRIDE

iTrader: (6)

I can't tell from the pictures you have under the hood...have you hole sawed the two hood supports at the front of the car on either side? (by the front frame rail?)

Do you still have the hood hinges on the car? I've seen those hole sawed to remove 1-2lbs as well.

How far back does your exhaust run? I forget...

Have you taken out screws that don't need to be in place anymore? i.e, if something has 4 screws holding it in, maybe it only really needs 2?...there are some dash pieces like that. same goes for the lower plastic kick panels that go on the interior beside the doors

Maybe replace the remaining nuts and bolts with titanium pieces? (not free)

How about the latch that holds the hood down in the front? Drill a hole or two in that? Same goes for the release bracket for the front hood.

Have you pulled down the plastic on the top of the metal hatch and hole sawed the hatch bracket...that thing is like 3lbs and irrc you can cut about 1lb out