Weight Reduction 100lb goal on already light car
04-06-2013, 11:36 PM
#41
I can't tell from the pictures you have under the hood...have you hole sawed the two hood supports at the front of the car on either side? (by the front frame rail?)
Do you still have the hood hinges on the car? I've seen those hole sawed to remove 1-2lbs as well.
How far back does your exhaust run? I forget...
Have you taken out screws that don't need to be in place anymore? i.e, if something has 4 screws holding it in, maybe it only really needs 2?...there are some dash pieces like that. same goes for the lower plastic kick panels that go on the interior beside the doors
Maybe replace the remaining nuts and bolts with titanium pieces? (not free)
How about the latch that holds the hood down in the front? Drill a hole or two in that? Same goes for the release bracket for the front hood.
Have you pulled down the plastic on the top of the metal hatch and hole sawed the hatch bracket...that thing is like 3lbs and irrc you can cut about 1lb out
Do you still have the hood hinges on the car? I've seen those hole sawed to remove 1-2lbs as well.
How far back does your exhaust run? I forget...
Have you taken out screws that don't need to be in place anymore? i.e, if something has 4 screws holding it in, maybe it only really needs 2?...there are some dash pieces like that. same goes for the lower plastic kick panels that go on the interior beside the doors
Maybe replace the remaining nuts and bolts with titanium pieces? (not free)
How about the latch that holds the hood down in the front? Drill a hole or two in that? Same goes for the release bracket for the front hood.
Have you pulled down the plastic on the top of the metal hatch and hole sawed the hatch bracket...that thing is like 3lbs and irrc you can cut about 1lb out
I still have stock hood supports/hinges
Exhausts goes straight to muffler on one side and has an extension on the other to clear frame
You just gave me an idea. How about cutting out the hood supports and making the piece from aluminum? I'm not ready to completely give up my hood supports or hinges.
Last edited by brandonppr; 04-07-2013 at 09:30 AM.
04-07-2013, 10:07 AM
#42
No I have not hole sawed the hood supports.
I still have stock hood supports/hinges
Exhausts goes straight to muffler on one side and has an extension on the other to clear frame
You just gave me an idea. How about cutting out the hood supports and making the piece from aluminum? I'm not ready to completely give up my hood supports or hinges.
I still have stock hood supports/hinges
Exhausts goes straight to muffler on one side and has an extension on the other to clear frame
You just gave me an idea. How about cutting out the hood supports and making the piece from aluminum? I'm not ready to completely give up my hood supports or hinges.
Hole-saw the hinge part (part that connects to the hood and the part that connects to the body) That hinge is really thick metal. I know for sure you can take 1lb off, but I'm 95% sure I heard 1.5lbs per side, so 3lbs total.
Cut your exhaust at the axle and put a turn-down, or if you don't like it loud, put a muffler in place so that it still ends at the axle. I believe you're in the realm of dumping 35lbs from the exhaust piping running from the axle to the back muffler.
04-07-2013, 10:42 AM
#43
The best way to lighten all that hood **** is to remove it 100% off the car 
just go to a pin on hood. No joke its about 50pounds lighter, the car will sit about 1inch higher in the front 
people dont think it that much, then get the car on the ground or back in the driveway and go WTF, it looks like the motor is out of the car. And you have to crank the coils down, thats the way to do it. lol
Stock hoods are about 48-52ish, but all the other **** WITH the hood, weights MORE then a pin on hood and pins,or dzues setup (a 11-15 hood, 1-4 mounting)
(a light weight bolt is 25-30 with all the crap still) Its unbolts 50pounds going pin on setup. vs 20-25 maybe 30 lighter going light bolt on, with drilling everything
no safety latch, cable,braket
no hood latch
no hood latch brace
no hinges
no hinge support bar inside the fender
no struts
no hood strut mounts
no hood bumper
no hood bumper supports
get weight off the front
just go to a pin on hood. No joke its about 50pounds lighter, the car will sit about 1inch higher in the front people dont think it that much, then get the car on the ground or back in the driveway and go WTF, it looks like the motor is out of the car. And you have to crank the coils down, thats the way to do it. lolStock hoods are about 48-52ish, but all the other **** WITH the hood, weights MORE then a pin on hood and pins,or dzues setup (a 11-15 hood, 1-4 mounting)
(a light weight bolt is 25-30 with all the crap still) Its unbolts 50pounds going pin on setup. vs 20-25 maybe 30 lighter going light bolt on, with drilling everything
no safety latch, cable,braket
no hood latch
no hood latch brace
no hinges
no hinge support bar inside the fender
no struts
no hood strut mounts
no hood bumper
no hood bumper supports
get weight off the front
Last edited by studderin; 04-07-2013 at 10:56 AM.
04-07-2013, 10:49 AM
#44
I see you PCM mount, and that works, look like you have a 97-98 PCM or something different?
Another way, we used to get a nice PCM try for GM, its light plastic base with a metal loop clip that fits the alum PCM case. This was back 99-04 in my GTP days, there were only 6-7$ new and were from a S10 the last years 99+ ish.
Another way, we used to get a nice PCM try for GM, its light plastic base with a metal loop clip that fits the alum PCM case. This was back 99-04 in my GTP days, there were only 6-7$ new and were from a S10 the last years 99+ ish.
04-07-2013, 10:53 AM
#45
look into going to one fan. I saved something like 9pounds going to one 16" spal fan with no shroud ($90 shipped). And sold my stock fans for more money (120). free'd up alot of room in front of the motor. and to get on the crank bolt. Cools fine if anything its better, I found out later one of my relays was bad so the other stock fan wasnt running anyway?? in how many years??? its had tons off dust and bugs on it fo it had been a long time, not working. If you have a SI or cam only car making 400-450who (or more 
) you should be fine. street drove it every time fall year. I wouldn't do that if you have a turbo,prochanger, or somthing with a big IC or somthing like that with 600+wheel HP. And took weight off the very front of the car, that you want to do, and I put the weight over on the passenger side. changed the %'s more then 20# inside the car
) you should be fine. street drove it every time fall year. I wouldn't do that if you have a turbo,prochanger, or somthing with a big IC or somthing like that with 600+wheel HP. And took weight off the very front of the car, that you want to do, and I put the weight over on the passenger side. changed the %'s more then 20# inside the car Last edited by studderin; 04-07-2013 at 11:00 AM.
04-07-2013, 11:02 AM
#46
trim you dash bar too and just use the ends, that saves 5#s, no concel your gona remove the middle metal bracket now to. I would make 2 alum bars off the floor/tunnele. off off the firewall to the mid dash cover tho.
your on the right track. here my wiring de pined (18#s havnt gotten the new hanress on the car yet. lol
your on the right track. here my wiring de pined (18#s havnt gotten the new hanress on the car yet. lol
04-07-2013, 12:47 PM
#47
The problem with pin on hoods, and I think Brandonprr will have the same issue being that I think he DD's his car as well; is when you need to do pop the hood for w.e reason you need to worry about damage to the hood. Then if you park the car somewhere you have to worry about the hood getting stolen, or someone getting in and tampering with the motor/oil
Ive thought about a pin on myself many times, it just seems like too much of a pain
Ive thought about a pin on myself many times, it just seems like too much of a pain
04-07-2013, 01:47 PM
#48
ya, thats up to you. Some say its a "race car" think I hear people say that that dont or havnt had one. I'm sure some did and didn't like it. But I like it better then a bolt on, when you work on the car the hood gets right out of the way. And you have alot more light under the hood and under the car, Kinda like going to a tubular Kmember, its not just the weight. After working on the car you like it for that. You can change plugs so much easier, not bending over under the hood, if you drop somthing you can just reach in and grap it off the ground, the whole engine has good light all the time, you not working in a shadow under the hood all the time ect, just little things. The few times I worked on the car outside and it was windy, you just put the hood in the grass. If its gona blow away there. its time not work on the car. Every other time you put it on the roof or windshield, (glue foam under it). Only 1 or every 20-30 times I take it off and on I have some helping me, 2 helps but you can do it.
I lived for about 2 years in a apt complex with a pin on hood. For a little while I tried not to take the hood off around and thought people would mess with it. I left the car at my parents most of the weeks, but most fri-sun would leave it in the parking lot after late night street or track racing.No one ever fucked with it. Most people looked out for it and didnt park next to it to unload stuff. I was worried someone could steel my FAST or my TB/lid over night. But I didn't think anyone would sit there with tools and steel anything at night, they would just steel the whole car in 2 mins. And people steal what they can sell easy and fast. I know some new cars had their rims stolen, stereos, GPS, stuff like that. Not LS1 mods, or sunoco hoods. I was more worried about that at a race or hotel out of town. But never heard of anything happening, just guy getting there all looked up "secure" race cars stolen, in the enclosed tailor with the 50K truck.
Not worried about someone putting sand in my oil. Just take the plug out the pan easier, or ele drill a 1/4 hole in 20secs, or smash it with a hammer. Or putting sand in my gas tank, thats not because you have a pin on hood, lol
I lived for about 2 years in a apt complex with a pin on hood. For a little while I tried not to take the hood off around and thought people would mess with it. I left the car at my parents most of the weeks, but most fri-sun would leave it in the parking lot after late night street or track racing.No one ever fucked with it. Most people looked out for it and didnt park next to it to unload stuff. I was worried someone could steel my FAST or my TB/lid over night. But I didn't think anyone would sit there with tools and steel anything at night, they would just steel the whole car in 2 mins. And people steal what they can sell easy and fast. I know some new cars had their rims stolen, stereos, GPS, stuff like that. Not LS1 mods, or sunoco hoods. I was more worried about that at a race or hotel out of town. But never heard of anything happening, just guy getting there all looked up "secure" race cars stolen, in the enclosed tailor with the 50K truck.
Not worried about someone putting sand in my oil. Just take the plug out the pan easier, or ele drill a 1/4 hole in 20secs, or smash it with a hammer. Or putting sand in my gas tank, thats not because you have a pin on hood, lol
04-07-2013, 02:42 PM
#49
See you're thinking like a car guy lol...most people don't know enough about cars to know where the oil pan plug is and take it out. They just know to put sand or water in the oil/gas. I speak from paranoia after having my car keyed to **** in a nice neighbourhood
If there is a way to lock some of the pins on a pin on hood, I would be interested in going that way...not sure if that changes the OP's opinion any.
Back on the weight reduction front though...How about drilling/holesawing the window track for the windows? You know those aluminum pieces that the window wheels run up and down on? Probably pull a few ounces out of there? Not sure if that would really effect the strength of those pieces though?
If there is a way to lock some of the pins on a pin on hood, I would be interested in going that way...not sure if that changes the OP's opinion any.
Back on the weight reduction front though...How about drilling/holesawing the window track for the windows? You know those aluminum pieces that the window wheels run up and down on? Probably pull a few ounces out of there? Not sure if that would really effect the strength of those pieces though?
04-07-2013, 09:21 PM
#50
Not sure what you mean by cutting out the hood supports and replacing them with aluminum...are you talking about the lower ones by the frame? if so, I don't see why not? I'd have to take a look at them a little closer though.
Hole-saw the hinge part (part that connects to the hood and the part that connects to the body) That hinge is really thick metal. I know for sure you can take 1lb off, but I'm 95% sure I heard 1.5lbs per side, so 3lbs total.
Cut your exhaust at the axle and put a turn-down, or if you don't like it loud, put a muffler in place so that it still ends at the axle. I believe you're in the realm of dumping 35lbs from the exhaust piping running from the axle to the back muffler.
Hole-saw the hinge part (part that connects to the hood and the part that connects to the body) That hinge is really thick metal. I know for sure you can take 1lb off, but I'm 95% sure I heard 1.5lbs per side, so 3lbs total.
Cut your exhaust at the axle and put a turn-down, or if you don't like it loud, put a muffler in place so that it still ends at the axle. I believe you're in the realm of dumping 35lbs from the exhaust piping running from the axle to the back muffler.
I will hole saw the hinges.
The exhaust consists of pacesetter longtubes, 2 spiralflow, 2 dumps, 1 piece of exhauste pipe.
The pass side goes from header directly to the muffler and them dumps.
The driver side goes from header to a short piece of pipe to clear the frame and then muffler and then dump.
I don't think I can lose anything here while keeping the mufflers which are required for some classes.
04-07-2013, 09:43 PM
#51
The best way to lighten all that hood **** is to remove it 100% off the car just go to a pin on hood. No joke its about 50pounds lighter, the car will sit about 1inch higher in the front people dont think it that much, then get the car on the ground or back in the driveway and go WTF, it looks like the motor is out of the car. And you have to crank the coils down, thats the way to do it. lol
Stock hoods are about 48-52ish, but all the other **** WITH the hood, weights MORE then a pin on hood and pins,or dzues setup (a 11-15 hood, 1-4 mounting)
(a light weight bolt is 25-30 with all the crap still) Its unbolts 50pounds going pin on setup. vs 20-25 maybe 30 lighter going light bolt on, with drilling everything
no safety latch, cable,braket
no hood latch
no hood latch brace
no hinges
no hinge support bar inside the fender
no struts
no hood strut mounts
no hood bumper
no hood bumper supports
get weight off the front
just go to a pin on hood. No joke its about 50pounds lighter, the car will sit about 1inch higher in the front people dont think it that much, then get the car on the ground or back in the driveway and go WTF, it looks like the motor is out of the car. And you have to crank the coils down, thats the way to do it. lolStock hoods are about 48-52ish, but all the other **** WITH the hood, weights MORE then a pin on hood and pins,or dzues setup (a 11-15 hood, 1-4 mounting)
(a light weight bolt is 25-30 with all the crap still) Its unbolts 50pounds going pin on setup. vs 20-25 maybe 30 lighter going light bolt on, with drilling everything
no safety latch, cable,braket
no hood latch
no hood latch brace
no hinges
no hinge support bar inside the fender
no struts
no hood strut mounts
no hood bumper
no hood bumper supports
get weight off the front
I just noticed that about the front height. I have the carpet and dash and seat and steering wheel out and right now it looks like I just lifted the front like I'm going off road or something lol.
I don't even have any brackets to support my front bumper besides the black plastic one that you have holesawed. I also only have a thin piece of metal across the bottom of the radiator. I'll post pics later when I start working on that area. I see some more I can shave from that area.
I see you PCM mount, and that works, look like you have a 97-98 PCM or something different?
Another way, we used to get a nice PCM try for GM, its light plastic base with a metal loop clip that fits the alum PCM case. This was back 99-04 in my GTP days, there were only 6-7$ new and were from a S10 the last years 99+ ish.
Another way, we used to get a nice PCM try for GM, its light plastic base with a metal loop clip that fits the alum PCM case. This was back 99-04 in my GTP days, there were only 6-7$ new and were from a S10 the last years 99+ ish.
) you should be fine. street drove it every time fall year. I wouldn't do that if you have a turbo,prochanger, or somthing with a big IC or somthing like that with 600+wheel HP. And took weight off the very front of the car, that you want to do, and I put the weight over on the passenger side. changed the %'s more then 20# inside the car I am scared to lose my 2 fans. I run them both on high to cool the car and at the track, that is barely cutting it right now in the heat of the summer.
trim you dash bar too and just use the ends, that saves 5#s, no concel your gona remove the middle metal bracket now to. I would make 2 alum bars off the floor/tunnele. off off the firewall to the mid dash cover tho.
your on the right track. here my wiring de pined (18#s havnt gotten the new hanress on the car yet. lol
your on the right track. here my wiring de pined (18#s havnt gotten the new hanress on the car yet. lol
I don't have an bars or brackets to hold my dash. It seems to be fine with just the top bolts unless you are talking about the part that is part of the car. I have not touched that part. This would be the part that holds the steering wheel bracket.
04-07-2013, 09:55 PM
#52
See you're thinking like a car guy lol...most people don't know enough about cars to know where the oil pan plug is and take it out. They just know to put sand or water in the oil/gas. I speak from paranoia after having my car keyed to **** in a nice neighbourhood
If there is a way to lock some of the pins on a pin on hood, I would be interested in going that way...not sure if that changes the OP's opinion any.
Back on the weight reduction front though...How about drilling/holesawing the window track for the windows? You know those aluminum pieces that the window wheels run up and down on? Probably pull a few ounces out of there? Not sure if that would really effect the strength of those pieces though?
If there is a way to lock some of the pins on a pin on hood, I would be interested in going that way...not sure if that changes the OP's opinion any.
Back on the weight reduction front though...How about drilling/holesawing the window track for the windows? You know those aluminum pieces that the window wheels run up and down on? Probably pull a few ounces out of there? Not sure if that would really effect the strength of those pieces though?
Here is some stuff I already did when I pulled the door bars:
Door parts
14.5 both door bars
5.5 both brackets at the rear of the door that the door bar attaches to (this is the door catch that if your door don't close all the way it catches here. also if you take and slammed your door as hard as you can it might help but I have had mine out with no problem)
1.5 both door insullation + clear plastic dust covers under the door panel
3.5 I cut all the fiberglass out of both doors that I could with a dremel and a hole saw so I got a total of 3.5 lbs out of the doors combined.
<.5 speaker holder brackets
holesawing doors 1.75lbs per door 3.5lbs total from both doors
All the screws on the back of the door hold the plate on. Remove all of them. You will need 3 washers. These are ones I just found setting around so they don't match to good. These three is all you need to put the latch back on without the plate.
Now you can take the catch that is attached to the body off. It will be the big round one that comes off with a torx bit.
You will also have to adjust these three screws on the door so that the door closes correctly and all the way.
I now have washers that fit lol
04-07-2013, 10:21 PM
#53
counting the shifter selonoid and parking brake I have now lost 35lbs 11oz and I have 64lbs 5oz to go
I decided I would lose the parking brake after all. We have 660ft shutdown and a cliff at the end of the track and that has been the reason for keeping it, but oh well.
I still have to remove the cables and other stuff related to them so far 3lbs 9oz
I got this off the shifter 5oz
I'm not sure if I am going to lose this or not, but I wanted to post the weight and it is the glove box 2lbs 7oz
Ok I got a little more work done on the steering column.
The sheer pins are made of plastic and you can just drill them out. I was trying to find a piece to couple the shaft that was the same size ID and my friend suggested just cutting off the lower shaft. That is what I did and it fits great and I got a 3/4" tube for the shaft and a steering shaft bearing that will be used to mount it to the car. I will need to make a bracket for this still.
It currently weighs less than 4lbs with everything, but I still need to make a bracket. Right now I have about $32 in it.
Here is the steering shaft with the sheer pins out and the cuts I made. The two parts on the left will not be reused. The only reason I took the two left pieces abart was to make sure the lower portion was hollow before I cut it off.
Here is how everything will fit together besides the middle bearing. Also the shaft needs to be cut some because it is too long right now.
Here is everything together except the bearing is laying beside it because it is a tight fit and I need to measure before putting it on.
I decided I would lose the parking brake after all. We have 660ft shutdown and a cliff at the end of the track and that has been the reason for keeping it, but oh well.
I still have to remove the cables and other stuff related to them so far 3lbs 9oz
I got this off the shifter 5oz
I'm not sure if I am going to lose this or not, but I wanted to post the weight and it is the glove box 2lbs 7oz
Ok I got a little more work done on the steering column.
The sheer pins are made of plastic and you can just drill them out. I was trying to find a piece to couple the shaft that was the same size ID and my friend suggested just cutting off the lower shaft. That is what I did and it fits great and I got a 3/4" tube for the shaft and a steering shaft bearing that will be used to mount it to the car. I will need to make a bracket for this still.
It currently weighs less than 4lbs with everything, but I still need to make a bracket. Right now I have about $32 in it.
Here is the steering shaft with the sheer pins out and the cuts I made. The two parts on the left will not be reused. The only reason I took the two left pieces abart was to make sure the lower portion was hollow before I cut it off.
Here is how everything will fit together besides the middle bearing. Also the shaft needs to be cut some because it is too long right now.
Here is everything together except the bearing is laying beside it because it is a tight fit and I need to measure before putting it on.
Last edited by brandonppr; 04-27-2013 at 03:32 PM.
04-07-2013, 10:31 PM
#54
Interesting. I plan on hole-sawing my parking brake lever (all the metal and gears). My parking brake doesn't work as I have removed the components on the rear brakes, but it still "looks" good should I get pulled over and inspected. Good to know I should be able to cut the weight in half there though.
04-07-2013, 10:40 PM
#55
Interesting. I plan on hole-sawing my parking brake lever (all the metal and gears). My parking brake doesn't work as I have removed the components on the rear brakes, but it still "looks" good should I get pulled over and inspected. Good to know I should be able to cut the weight in half there though.
04-08-2013, 06:31 PM
#56
for a pin on hood, you can use aerocatch latches, they have a keyed latch. Ive seen them installed two on each side of the hood without problems. I plan to use them with a hinged hood, but no center latch.
Ryan
Ryan
