What changes can I make for better ET
#1
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Here is my set up:
Car is drag race only, SD tune, 1/8 mile only
Engine/Trans
Forged 347 with stock crank, flycut (LME)
Fast 90mm intake and 90mm TB
MS4 Cam (TSP)
5.3L stg 2.5 heads (PRC)
Longtube headers (Pacesetter)
4L60e with a few good parts in it
3800 SS converter (Yank)
Red top injectors (SVO)
255LPM pump in 02 tank
Double roller adjustable timing chain (Rollmaster)
Comp Cams Lifters
electric water pump (miziere)
Suspension/Rear/Driveshaft
Stock aluminum driveshaft
Moser 12bolt 3.73 full spool
UMI short CM adjustable TA
Wolfe offset CM LCAs
Comp 3 way adjustable rear shocks
QA1 R front adjustable shocks
UMI CM panhard bar
Wolf Drag bar
Solid motor mounts
Chassis
LOTS of weight reduction
!front sway bar
Full cage with added thru firewall bars to front frame
Subframe connectors
Wolf Minitub with 275-12 springs
Wheel/Tire
weld 10hole? draglights? skinny front 15x10? rear
MT ET Street 26x11.50
Do you see anything that I could improve on in my set up?
I think I could do better on gears because I run 1/8 mile only.
I plan to switch to e85 fuel and change Redtops to siemens 60# and a dual intank pump set up from Lonnies. I also plan to spray a 100 shot.
I am going to have to get to the dyno after the new set up, but the last time I had it on the dyno it made 405 @ 7000, but it was still coming up and I didn't want to pull any higher on the 4L60e. I don't want to shift that high. I normally shift around 6700 and usually run around 7.15-20 in the 1/8th @96mph. Anything else I should change in my engine setup?
Car is drag race only, SD tune, 1/8 mile only
Engine/Trans
Forged 347 with stock crank, flycut (LME)
Fast 90mm intake and 90mm TB
MS4 Cam (TSP)
5.3L stg 2.5 heads (PRC)
Longtube headers (Pacesetter)
4L60e with a few good parts in it
3800 SS converter (Yank)
Red top injectors (SVO)
255LPM pump in 02 tank
Double roller adjustable timing chain (Rollmaster)
Comp Cams Lifters
electric water pump (miziere)
Suspension/Rear/Driveshaft
Stock aluminum driveshaft
Moser 12bolt 3.73 full spool
UMI short CM adjustable TA
Wolfe offset CM LCAs
Comp 3 way adjustable rear shocks
QA1 R front adjustable shocks
UMI CM panhard bar
Wolf Drag bar
Solid motor mounts
Chassis
LOTS of weight reduction
!front sway bar
Full cage with added thru firewall bars to front frame
Subframe connectors
Wolf Minitub with 275-12 springs
Wheel/Tire
weld 10hole? draglights? skinny front 15x10? rear
MT ET Street 26x11.50
Do you see anything that I could improve on in my set up?
I think I could do better on gears because I run 1/8 mile only.
I plan to switch to e85 fuel and change Redtops to siemens 60# and a dual intank pump set up from Lonnies. I also plan to spray a 100 shot.
I am going to have to get to the dyno after the new set up, but the last time I had it on the dyno it made 405 @ 7000, but it was still coming up and I didn't want to pull any higher on the 4L60e. I don't want to shift that high. I normally shift around 6700 and usually run around 7.15-20 in the 1/8th @96mph. Anything else I should change in my engine setup?
Last edited by brandonppr; 03-31-2013 at 11:42 AM.
#2
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Seems like your setup is very similar to my old setup. Look up my old thread I went from running 7.0's down to 6.40's and a couple of .30's with no changes power wise. Weight, suspension, and a converter change took me down that far. Once again that was changing nothing motor wise...
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If the track will hold it, I'd step up to a 4.10 gear in the rear.
I'd ditch the 60e and go with a th350 as well.
Assuming the numbers aren't inflated, that kind of power could easily get you in the 6.70's.
I'd ditch the 60e and go with a th350 as well.
Assuming the numbers aren't inflated, that kind of power could easily get you in the 6.70's.
#5
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Seems like your setup is very similar to my old setup. Look up my old thread I went from running 7.0's down to 6.40's and a couple of .30's with no changes power wise. Weight, suspension, and a converter change took me down that far. Once again that was changing nothing motor wise...
I will look into those ram air setups. I think I could build something to work for it. Do you think it would hold heat? Right now I have the radiator tilted back further and the intake is above the gap for half of the filter. The stock radiator piece is gone and the clips hold the rectangle ring that holds the filter in after a small modification of the stock pieces.
Here is how it is now with the exception of now having no maf and a 4"lid now:
![](http://www.fquick.com/images/vehicles/full/1374991910.jpg?1200460473)
![](http://www.fquick.com/images/vehicles/full/13749102958.jpg?1202660982)
#6
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Get a better converter, ptc 4500 or similar
28 11.50 slick is more than enough tire
Keep the 3.73's
Shift at 7200
Get weight off the front, k member for sure that's 30#!
Please put a better driveshaft on it before it blows
If you van get 50# off the front and swap converter you should be in the 6.85 range
28 11.50 slick is more than enough tire
Keep the 3.73's
Shift at 7200
Get weight off the front, k member for sure that's 30#!
Please put a better driveshaft on it before it blows
If you van get 50# off the front and swap converter you should be in the 6.85 range
#7
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All that is needed is a 28X10.5X15 ET drag not an ET street and swap out the 3.73 gears for a set of 4.10 gears. With the 4L60e that you have shift RPM is fine for the 1-2 shift try 6,900 RPM's on the 2-3 shift. If you change to a TH350 or TH400 go with 4.56 gears if it is always going to run down a 1/8 mile track.
As already stated change out to a better K-member and A-arms and take advantage of the QA1-R’s you all ready have on the front of the car.
If you want to drop more ET change the converter to a higher stall. I would also change the driveshaft if you start to hit it harder with a new stall converter.
Good luck!
N2
As already stated change out to a better K-member and A-arms and take advantage of the QA1-R’s you all ready have on the front of the car.
If you want to drop more ET change the converter to a higher stall. I would also change the driveshaft if you start to hit it harder with a new stall converter.
Good luck!
N2