Interested in changing flexplate
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From: Winchester, VA
Interested in changing flexplate I've got a line on a 4400 yank converter to replace my 3600 yank. Since I'm planning on shedding some weight to offset the weight gained by installing a s60, and the roll bar install coming up this summer I'm looking at flexplate options.
The car is a 99 and as it sits I'm at 3520 with me in it (~230lbs) so in the long run I'd like to be down as close to or under 3000 and I do have tubular front suspension and kirkeys to be installed.
In my searches I couldn't find the exact weight of the stock flexplate but did uncover some info regarding how its weight effects the launch and one from a sponser that weighs 5.8lbs and is SFI.
My thought has been if you're going to cut weight start with rotating weight, so unless I'm not aware of some side effects of going with a lighter flexplate it seems like a no brainer while I'm in there. But at this point I wouldn't go out of my way to just change the flexplate.
What are your general thoughts or insight on this?
The car is a 99 and as it sits I'm at 3520 with me in it (~230lbs) so in the long run I'd like to be down as close to or under 3000 and I do have tubular front suspension and kirkeys to be installed.
In my searches I couldn't find the exact weight of the stock flexplate but did uncover some info regarding how its weight effects the launch and one from a sponser that weighs 5.8lbs and is SFI.
My thought has been if you're going to cut weight start with rotating weight, so unless I'm not aware of some side effects of going with a lighter flexplate it seems like a no brainer while I'm in there. But at this point I wouldn't go out of my way to just change the flexplate.
What are your general thoughts or insight on this?
A heavier FP will hit harder out of the hole.
I've always read steer clear of aluminum.
Take that with a grain of salt.. It has been several months since I read the info and didn't try to retain it.
I've always read steer clear of aluminum.
Take that with a grain of salt.. It has been several months since I read the info and didn't try to retain it.
Use an SFI flex plate. There is nothing there. Whoever told you heavier flex plates or converters leave harder is smoking dope. It has been proven over and over that lighter is faster. Inertia is a bitch. :-)
I can understand inertia with a heavier flywheel on a manual transmission but don't know if the small weight difference on a flexplate really matters. Here's a discussion about flexplate weight: https://ls1tech.com/forums/drag-racing-tech/1283376-flexplates-aluminum-vs-steel.html
Thread Starter
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Joined: Dec 2012
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From: Winchester, VA
I did find that thread and another discussing the csr flexplate. I know the weight difference would be small but two other aspects got my attention after some more digging.
First the SFI rating. Eventually I'd like to be running well into the 9s. Obviously not the way it sits but I'm getting tired of setting something up only to realize that I need more than what I thought. So I'm planning for down the road and anything that I can do now that might be overkill but be required or benefit me later I'd like to do it if I can. Just like the roll bar I mentioned earlier will more than likely end up being a cage. So when the time comes I'd like to just be building a motor and not chasing down safety stuff on a tight budget after I've gone to the trouble to build a motor that I can't run without getting the boot.
Second the multiple bolt patterns. To get to where I want to be I'm thinking I may need to go th400 down the line. Again being able to work toward the future with parts I can afford now. So it may seem silly to get a new converter for the trans I have now but its cheap, I trust the guy I'm getting it from, and should help optimize the current setup that I'll still be bracket racing in the meantime.
I'll do some digging on the tci
First the SFI rating. Eventually I'd like to be running well into the 9s. Obviously not the way it sits but I'm getting tired of setting something up only to realize that I need more than what I thought. So I'm planning for down the road and anything that I can do now that might be overkill but be required or benefit me later I'd like to do it if I can. Just like the roll bar I mentioned earlier will more than likely end up being a cage. So when the time comes I'd like to just be building a motor and not chasing down safety stuff on a tight budget after I've gone to the trouble to build a motor that I can't run without getting the boot.
Second the multiple bolt patterns. To get to where I want to be I'm thinking I may need to go th400 down the line. Again being able to work toward the future with parts I can afford now. So it may seem silly to get a new converter for the trans I have now but its cheap, I trust the guy I'm getting it from, and should help optimize the current setup that I'll still be bracket racing in the meantime.
I'll do some digging on the tci
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