M6 60ft times
Absolutely a bias ply, only way to go with a stick. We launch so much harder than autos and have no tranny slip so a wrinkling controlled spin tire has to take the brunt of the violent launches. Mickey ET Streets or Hoosier QuickTime Pro DOTs are great, M&H Racemaster makes a cheater slick as well for DOT approved tires, or any full slick will work too of course.
Practice practice practice!!! I've had mine down to 1.97 best so far and I'm pretty confident I can get a little better with my current tires. I actually need to get my LCA relocators on too which should help some given my current rear suspension setup. I'm pretty sure I have a low 1.9x if not a high 1.8 in it after perfecting my technique. I'm slipping the clutch from 3500-4000 rpm, and I think I'm slipping it a bit too much too. Gonna head back down the track for more practice on 7/19, so we'll see what I can do then. I wish I could get my hands on a set of DR's to see how well I could do with those.
Thread Starter
12 Second Club
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 197
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From: scranton
Practice practice practice!!! I've had mine down to 1.97 best so far and I'm pretty confident I can get a little better with my current tires. I actually need to get my LCA relocators on too which should help some given my current rear suspension setup. I'm pretty sure I have a low 1.9x if not a high 1.8 in it after perfecting my technique. I'm slipping the clutch from 3500-4000 rpm, and I think I'm slipping it a bit too much too. Gonna head back down the track for more practice on 7/19, so we'll see what I can do then. I wish I could get my hands on a set of DR's to see how well I could do with those.
Anybody that tries to drag race a stick F body and a ten bolt needs to keep a friend with a trailer on speed dial. LOL
Ditto the factory thin wall aluminum driveshaft. I've seen several of those break on Friday night test n tunes. Usually takes a transmission extension housing or rear end yolk with them when they tear in half. All that **** needs to go if your going to drag race one.
At the Tulsa NHRA points race put here a couple of weeks ago we had an automatic Stock Eliminator car tear an aluminum driveshaft in half.
An Inland Empire aluminum shaft from Jegs will take care of that.
1.8 60'? Your wasting over half a second right there.
Ditto the factory thin wall aluminum driveshaft. I've seen several of those break on Friday night test n tunes. Usually takes a transmission extension housing or rear end yolk with them when they tear in half. All that **** needs to go if your going to drag race one.
At the Tulsa NHRA points race put here a couple of weeks ago we had an automatic Stock Eliminator car tear an aluminum driveshaft in half.
An Inland Empire aluminum shaft from Jegs will take care of that.
1.8 60'? Your wasting over half a second right there.
T56 and a 10-bolt w/4.10s here, Hoosier QTP's and I've done well over 20+ 1.6x 60ft times with the best being a 1.60. I have over 150 track passes on this rear end slipping the clutch hard from around 5k rpms. Bias ply tires and a smooth launch are key.
Can't be scared of it
Can't be scared of it
Last edited by Camaro Z; Jul 5, 2013 at 10:07 PM.
Way back when I first got my car with stock suspension and a set of M/T ET Drags I would pull 1.6's then I snapped a axle in half. Save up and get a real rear . A 10 bolt can not live behind a m6 and cut good 60ft times. To me a good 60ft time would be in the 1.4 to 1.3 range so what I may consider to be good may be different from you
Thread Starter
12 Second Club
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 197
Likes: 1
From: scranton
Way back when I first got my car with stock suspension and a set of M/T ET Drags I would pull 1.6's then I snapped a axle in half. Save up and get a real rear . A 10 bolt can not live behind a m6 and cut good 60ft times. To me a good 60ft time would be in the 1.4 to 1.3 range so what I may consider to be good may be different from you
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Mine holds up to 1.7 60's fine. But when I really try to get a better 60' out of it then I get a broke axle. I am on a dr but a bias would help it live.....I just don't like a bias. I'm gonna weld my axle tubes and see if it does any better on the axle front this year.
Way back when I first got my car with stock suspension and a set of M/T ET Drags I would pull 1.6's then I snapped a axle in half. Save up and get a real rear . A 10 bolt can not live behind a m6 and cut good 60ft times. To me a good 60ft time would be in the 1.4 to 1.3 range so what I may consider to be good may be different from you
