NW Iowa WS6

iTrader: (9)

Absolutely a bias ply, only way to go with a stick. We launch so much harder than autos and have no tranny slip so a wrinkling controlled spin tire has to take the brunt of the violent launches. Mickey ET Streets or Hoosier QuickTime Pro DOTs are great, M&H Racemaster makes a cheater slick as well for DOT approved tires, or any full slick will work too of course.

LS1again

iTrader: (4)

Practice practice practice!!! I've had mine down to 1.97 best so far and I'm pretty confident I can get a little better with my current tires. I actually need to get my LCA relocators on too which should help some given my current rear suspension setup. I'm pretty sure I have a low 1.9x if not a high 1.8 in it after perfecting my technique. I'm slipping the clutch from 3500-4000 rpm, and I think I'm slipping it a bit too much too. Gonna head back down the track for more practice on 7/19, so we'll see what I can do then. I wish I could get my hands on a set of DR's to see how well I could do with those.

02fbody35th

Nice. It's good to know its still has more in it with my current set up. I'm just gonna have to get back to the track for some more runs

Jason94z

iTrader: (3)

Salad shooters and 11.5 ET streets
4500, dump and floor it
1.8's three times then *boom*

Ed Wright

iTrader: (1)

Anybody that tries to drag race a stick F body and a ten bolt needs to keep a friend with a trailer on speed dial. LOL

Ditto the factory thin wall aluminum driveshaft. I've seen several of those break on Friday night test n tunes. Usually takes a transmission extension housing or rear end yolk with them when they tear in half. All that **** needs to go if your going to drag race one.
At the Tulsa NHRA points race put here a couple of weeks ago we had an automatic Stock Eliminator car tear an aluminum driveshaft in half.

An Inland Empire aluminum shaft from Jegs will take care of that.


1.8 60'? Your wasting over half a second right there.

Camaro Z

iTrader: (5)

T56 and a 10-bolt w/4.10s here, Hoosier QTP's and I've done well over 20+ 1.6x 60ft times with the best being a 1.60. I have over 150 track passes on this rear end slipping the clutch hard from around 5k rpms. Bias ply tires and a smooth launch are key.

Can't be scared of it

02SOMWS6

iTrader: (6)

Way back when I first got my car with stock suspension and a set of M/T ET Drags I would pull 1.6's then I snapped a axle in half. Save up and get a real rear . A 10 bolt can not live behind a m6 and cut good 60ft times. To me a good 60ft time would be in the 1.4 to 1.3 range so what I may consider to be good may be different from you

02fbody35th

Man for me right now anything below 2.0 60 ft times would be good. Haha

HioSSilver

iTrader: (8)

Mine holds up to 1.7 60's fine. But when I really try to get a better 60' out of it then I get a broke axle. I am on a dr but a bias would help it live.....I just don't like a bias. I'm gonna weld my axle tubes and see if it does any better on the axle front this year.

02SOMWS6

iTrader: (6)

where did my sig go?

02fbody35th

If your posting from a phone in mobile version it doesn't add your sig. I noticed that happen to me aswell

93M6Formula

Best i've ever cut on my old 10 bolt was a 1.97 on bald mickey DRs. I have an S60,4.10s, and NT05Rs now and I can't get any better than a 2.0. It's time for some slicks.

Camaro9969

iTrader: (12)

When i had a cam only t56 10 bolt used to cut 1.6's often had 255 60 16 mt et street tires just dont dump the clutch hard and it will save it?

S8ER95Z

iTrader: (3)

2.0s on 245/50R16 all seasons... the wife pulls 1.9s. That was stock/near stock.