BennyB

iTrader: (12)

Got the car back to the track a few days ago, the goal was to go 6.90's 1/8th mile. The car has previously gone a best of 7.14@97 with a 1.6 60ft. This time out it went anywhere from 7.19 to 7.11 on my good runs with 1.64 to 1.55 60ft. My problem is as of now I have to just stall the car to take slack out of the converter and then roll into the throttle off the line otherwise if I flash it or stall it up high and try to go full bore it just wants to wheel hop/ spin. I need some suggestions to try and fix this issue. Car has stock shocks/ springs. The rear suspension and torque arm is all rod end fully adjustable. I have lca relo brackets, but are not in the car yet. Let me know your thoughts.

Old Geezer

iTrader: (3)

"stock shocks"... Start here.

BennyB

iTrader: (12)

Do you think I would be ok doing da front shocks for now? I can get a pretty good deal on the new Viking drag shocks. I have also been told the lca relocation brackets will eliminate the wheel hop as well

1BAD98LS1

iTrader: (33)

Yes, put some on the front and put the reloc. brackets on and I bet you will see 1.5x consistantly

TurboStangJON

iTrader: (27)

What's the tire pressure?

BennyB

iTrader: (12)

Hoosier dr's I have tried at 16-18 lbs

BennyB

iTrader: (12)

Here are some of the lauch pics. it looks like it transfers weight ok, but like I said if I try flashing it or stalling it up high off the line you can feel it wheel hops pretty bad and ends up hurting my short times very bad.

Ed Wright

iTrader: (1)

When he told you shocks, he meant ( correctly) rear shocks. Front shocks won't cause or cure wheel hop.

BennyB

iTrader: (12)

ahh thanks for clearing that up and I understand front shocks would do nothing for wheel hop. I was just wondering since I do have lca relocation brackets already if that would do the trick. I just haven't welded them in yet. I suppose I could try and go from there.

1BAD98LS1

iTrader: (33)

An anti-roll bar will help you with all the twist in the body you are getting. Will launch more evenly on both sides as opposed to pulling just the drivers side.

Ed Wright

iTrader: (1)

They don't wheel hop without LCAs if the shocks are good.

BennyB

iTrader: (12)

ill buy rear shocks and see what she does. I don't want to install the lca relocation brackets unless I really have to. My car is stock ride height if not a little higher with all the weight I have removed. I heard they dont do much unless the car is lower than stock ride height. What rear shocks do you guys recommend?

Ed Wright

iTrader: (1)

Eastexas Race Cars put Strange on the back of mine when they back-halved it.

BennyB

iTrader: (12)

sa or da for the rear? I hear a lot of people just do the sa's for rear shocks?

Ed Wright

iTrader: (1)

I have single adjustable rears. Never have to mess with them. Only the fronts to control wheel spin or wheel stands. I have never touched the rears since I got it back. The fronts are the only ones anybody I run with ever have to work with. You may not even need adjustable a for what you have. Just some not worn out.

BennyB

iTrader: (12)

sounds good ill let you know what I decide and post up results. hoping to hit my goal of 6.90's in the 1/8th!

BennyB

iTrader: (12)

and thank you for all the help

TurboStangJON

iTrader: (27)

If you plan on staying on a radial I'd recommend a good double adjustable shock such as a Strange or an AFCO. A slick can get away with running fast on a single but that's not the case with a radial.

BennyB

iTrader: (12)

I am actually looking at the strange and Viking da rears now

TurboStangJON

iTrader: (27)

Go with a Strange or an AFCO.