vbls

iTrader: (17)

ok I installed the complete front drag brake setup on my 00 Camaro, front rotors, and calipers. when im driving about 30-40 mph and hit the brakes, the whole thing dives down and the front bumper hits the ground. it barely wanted to stop...

5.3LJimmy

iTrader: (10)

The rotors are smaller and there is a bunch less pad contact area, so it isn't going to stop as well as stock brakes. The fact that it is nosediving is odd. What other changes, if any, have you made?

vbls

iTrader: (17)

that's the only aftermarket brakes I have bought, they are QA1 in the front set at 1.
and yes I do have every suspension part, too much to list.

SSellers

What rear brakes are you running, what proportioning valve, and (if drum) what metering or combo valving?

vbls

iTrader: (17)

stock rear discs, I have the abs delete kit with that valve but I adjusted it all the way both directions and nothing

vbls

iTrader: (17)

could it have anything to do with the tubular k member and a arms I installed?

studderin

iTrader: (28)

did you do the shocks at the same time?

studderin

iTrader: (28)

I know it cools to drove around with the front shocks way loose. so you can do the 20-40mph little hits and looks like the cars poppin a wheelie. But that **** is dangerous at speeds, so tighten the shocks up for street driving. Let the car keep weight on the tires, I know street driving you have to drive a different and let the car move a little and settle before correcting. But it really easy to get in trouble 60-100 if you have the shocks all loose and the car is rolling all over, watch out for that if its your 1st time with these shocks? If its not I dont know abput it not stopping, and it nose diving bad.
did you just put the shocks on too? can you tighten them up, comp and ext ???

5.3LJimmy

iTrader: (10)

I should have specified "at the same time" in reference to other changes made. It is weird that the car would not stop as good while at the same time nose over. So I would assume that just the brakes were not the only change at this time. Seems like the car would nose over harder with the larger stock brakes over the Strange units.

I would definitely recommend putting the shocks on 4-6 for street driving to tighten some of that up. I doubt the kmember and a arms would have this kind of effect.

What does the car weigh and what front spring is in it?

vbls

iTrader: (17)

no the QA1 shocks have been on there, they were on there when I did the time in my SIG. its ever since I did my kmember, aarms, and front brakes

98Camarod

iTrader: (43)

I have my proportioning valve all the open, but I'm a stock setup. I'd tighten the shocks up as mentioned and see how it acts.

I'm in Chesapeake if you need any help.

vbls

iTrader: (17)

I put the shocks on 6 it helps driving but still does it when I hit the brakes. also I tried my adjuster all the way up and down, same thing

SSellers

Sounds like the issue could be in the prop valve cutting off flow to the rears. Happens if it's installed wrong or if it's wrong inside so the relief or check valve gets pushed closed with brakes applied instead of the other way around. Try jacking up the rear end and putting the brakes on to see if you can overpower them with the gas. If the setup allows it you can also try bypassing the prop valve using a coupler for the in/out lines to see what it does.

studderin

iTrader: (28)

you should be able to tell form bleeding them. I few years ago when I out drag brakes on I let the willwood prop valve go dry, then when I went to bleed the breaks I couldn't get any fuild to the rear lones after it. I bench bleed it, fill the lines, took it apart and nothing looked wrong? ended up ripping the seal on the 2-3 time taking it apart so just bought a new one, and it bleed fine and has been fine sense.

Truthfully when I made lines and took out the abs, I went to a stone and old parking lot and did some lock ups with friends watching and never found any change having it full open or closed or anywhere in the middle. No wheels locked up to soon or anything, I had stock wheels, and it been fine on DR and shinnies, but haven't checked the lock up, on them.
I would just take it out but the lines were made for it, and it was easier to put a new one in and go. That might not be the problem at all, just something to check.



did you go to a manual master or take the power booster out?