?? Street car at the track or track car on the street
08-14-2013, 09:28 PM
#41
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on a trailer to the race track = race car
driving it on the street to the race track = street car
full exhaust out the back is the way to go, you can have lightweight carpet and stripped dash, all sound pads. And it quieter insode the car then a factory stock body car with cam and dumped exhaust under the car. Keep it simple, no switches to turn on and off, no belts to change, fuel, spark plugs, the tune....just turn the key and drive anywhere, or race. Just adjust the shocks, tire pressure is really nice as the only prep.
over 3K race weight, in DOT street trim is heavy
27XX drives, starts and stops alot better, then 3700 with "race" parts
driving it on the street to the race track = street car
full exhaust out the back is the way to go, you can have lightweight carpet and stripped dash, all sound pads. And it quieter insode the car then a factory stock body car with cam and dumped exhaust under the car. Keep it simple, no switches to turn on and off, no belts to change, fuel, spark plugs, the tune....just turn the key and drive anywhere, or race. Just adjust the shocks, tire pressure is really nice as the only prep.
over 3K race weight, in DOT street trim is heavy
27XX drives, starts and stops alot better, then 3700 with "race" parts
08-14-2013, 11:15 PM
#42
not sure if my theory counts here, but i like having mine a street/strip car, equaly suited to both. nittor drs, does great on the street good on track. full exhaust is good for cruise, loud enough and free enough for power at the track. anyone who sees it may say nice car sounds tough, but doesnt know how fast it may be. girlfriend cud hop in starts with a key and she cud drive it to the beach. then i can drive it to the track, open the bottle, heat the tires, and run it. best of both worlds. i cant afford a track only race car.
08-15-2013, 07:19 AM
#43
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I don't 100% agree with this. If I had the money to have a trailer and towing vehicle, I'd tow a car to the track. Street car trailered to the track = cheap insurance in case something breaks.
You should state it:
Car NEEDS to be trailered to the track = race car
Car can be driven to the track LEGALLY = street car
You should state it:
Car NEEDS to be trailered to the track = race car
Car can be driven to the track LEGALLY = street car
on a trailer to the race track = race car
driving it on the street to the race track = street car
full exhaust out the back is the way to go, you can have lightweight carpet and stripped dash, all sound pads. And it quieter insode the car then a factory stock body car with cam and dumped exhaust under the car. Keep it simple, no switches to turn on and off, no belts to change, fuel, spark plugs, the tune....just turn the key and drive anywhere, or race. Just adjust the shocks, tire pressure is really nice as the only prep.
over 3K race weight, in DOT street trim is heavy 27XX drives, starts and stops alot better, then 3700 with "race" parts
driving it on the street to the race track = street car
full exhaust out the back is the way to go, you can have lightweight carpet and stripped dash, all sound pads. And it quieter insode the car then a factory stock body car with cam and dumped exhaust under the car. Keep it simple, no switches to turn on and off, no belts to change, fuel, spark plugs, the tune....just turn the key and drive anywhere, or race. Just adjust the shocks, tire pressure is really nice as the only prep.
over 3K race weight, in DOT street trim is heavy
27XX drives, starts and stops alot better, then 3700 with "race" partsAll what Jon has said is true. and it's why I built my second car the way I did. A/C is for man who are scared to sweat a little or take there guys that have to take there girlfriends or wife's around everywhere they go and they hate car's as it is so to take the edge off you keep the a/c so they don't **** up there hair with the window's down or the make up sweating. my girl don't care about the heat just as long as I blow the doors off your a/c once a month joy ride. So now that ti got that out I get it some like A/C others do not. But all bullshit a side you drive f body's there load they speak rattle and make more they are not a Audi or Lexus ,BMW, and so on. so lets make HP and go fast.
Funny part is my car is probably about the same weight as you guys.......except I still have a car.
08-15-2013, 10:57 AM
#44
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This
You 2 make camaro owners look dumb. From the looks of our sigs we run similar et......you 2 being a bit quicker.....me having more mph. I'm still on a 10bolt is my excuse for my et.....or I would have both of you covered there as well.......then set my cruise, and turn my ac on after the run. But what are you guys excuses for not having the mph I do? I still have ALL the **** you guys are making fun of. If your car is a rattle trap.....then well your just not a very good mechanic. Mine is quiet and nice to drive.
Funny part is my car is probably about the same weight as you guys.......except I still have a car.
You 2 make camaro owners look dumb. From the looks of our sigs we run similar et......you 2 being a bit quicker.....me having more mph. I'm still on a 10bolt is my excuse for my et.....or I would have both of you covered there as well.......then set my cruise, and turn my ac on after the run. But what are you guys excuses for not having the mph I do? I still have ALL the **** you guys are making fun of. If your car is a rattle trap.....then well your just not a very good mechanic. Mine is quiet and nice to drive.
Funny part is my car is probably about the same weight as you guys.......except I still have a car.
a/c parts still in the car 3500
lbs. and being a good mechanic has nothing to do with solid strong parts that transfer noise.mine is nice to drive as well to and from the track.
08-15-2013, 09:10 PM
#51
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You 2 make camaro owners look dumb. From the looks of our sigs we run similar et......you 2 being a bit quicker.....me having more mph. I'm still on a 10bolt is my excuse for my et.....or I would have both of you covered there as well.......then set my cruise, and turn my ac on after the run. But what are you guys excuses for not having the mph I do? I still have ALL the **** you guys are making fun of. If your car is a rattle trap.....then well your just not a very good mechanic. Mine is quiet and nice to drive.
Funny part is my car is probably about the same weight as you guys.......except I still have a car.
Funny part is my car is probably about the same weight as you guys.......except I still have a car.
Their ET is better, and they get from point a to point b faster, and that's what matters in drag racing at the end of the day... Not your trap while the guy in the next lane finished first. And there is a difference between a 10.6 and 11.0
... Not to mention he's one of the most consistent people I've ever seen race a 6 speed car.
08-15-2013, 09:30 PM
#52
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I've seen studderin's car on here......it's pretty gutted. The difference between his 10.6 and my 11.0 is the 60'. I'll take mph over et.......I'm not a drag racer. Would I like to get my et down?? Sure. .....as I'm sure he would like to get his mph up.
08-21-2013, 11:10 AM
#58
^^^^ That's awesome.
This would be my ultimate buildup for my car......
4L80e
Forced induction- turbo or procharger, somewhere between 600-900rwhp
A/C
Full leather interior
Cage- 6pt or 8pt
This would give me something I could drive cross country if I had to. I could head to the strip and run a decent number for fun. I could also take it to a car show and get compliments. Best of all worlds?!?
This would be my ultimate buildup for my car......
4L80e
Forced induction- turbo or procharger, somewhere between 600-900rwhp
A/C
Full leather interior
Cage- 6pt or 8pt
This would give me something I could drive cross country if I had to. I could head to the strip and run a decent number for fun. I could also take it to a car show and get compliments. Best of all worlds?!?
