Try the relay fix mentioned in this thread worth a shot

https://ls1tech.com/forums/drag-raci...on-update.html

 

As said above, the negative cable needs to be as big as the positive cable. Also, don't rely on the chassis for ground. What I was trying to say above is that you should run cables from the battery direct to the chassis, engine and probably cylinder head for best results. Also, for best coil output, if you run a ground cable to one head, you should at least run a cable from that head to the other. Thats just my opinion.

 

Ok well let me describe my setup since it may help someone.

I'm using a BMR relocation battery tray.



Top post optima. The side post batteries sit too close to the antenna and stuff by the time you put the connectors on it. Makes it a PITA to get the power wire loose with a wrench without arcing.



0ga wire I bought from a place where they "know how" (I think I bought like 20ft and had some left over. Decide how you wanna run yours and measure. Always buy more than you think you'll need. You'll thank me later.)

2 top post clamps. I like this style because you can run a longer bolt through it and connect extra stuff to it that you need 12v from.



Get a pack of these from the "know how" place and some solder (sp?)



A fuse, I believe I used a 100amp fuse.



Now what I do is remove the factory cables and run the power from the battery to the starter. I run my wire on the inside of the car along the passenger side rocker and pop a hole in the firewall behind the computer and use a grommit to keep it from chaffing. I then run a same size wire from the same connector as the starter to the fuse box on the passenger side. Then I ground the motor at the passenger side head to the chassis and also one off the driver side head in the rear to the chassis. Probably overkill but no such thing as over grounding.

For the battery ground in the back, I solder one of the copper ends on it like mentioned above, sand the frame rail right next to the battery holder, to remove all the paint and secure the wire to the frame with a big self tapping screw and washer. Then I hit it with a blast of spray paint to keep rust away. I use the extra I have left over from the main power wire to do this. This needs to be the same size wire as the power wire.

After this, the car should work just fine assuming the batter is strong but I always replace the battery when I do this in a car. It seems to be harder on them so I want it to be all fresh and good to go.

If there is a wire going to the battery that I forgot or that you've installed just relocate it to the power port on the fuse and relay center on the passenger side. Unless its like a sub amp wire or something. I try not to draw serious power from the fuse and relay center, I'd rather get it right from the battery.

I've run my stuff like this on all my cars and all the other cars I've done this to and o one has ever returned with a complaint.

I'm doin this off of memory so if I forgot something then cut me some slack. I'm overseas in AFG right now so I can't go out and snap pics. Lol

Hopes this clarifies some stuff or hits an area you missed.

 

I just went down to advance and bought 16 ft of there bulk battery cable on a spool its 0 gauge and ran 2 gauge for ground

 

Here is a really simple test to check your cables. Take your volt meter. Set it to dc volts. Connect one end to the positive end of the battery cable. The other end to the positive starter solenoid. Start the car. If the meter shows voltage over a volt or two the cable has too much resistance. Same test can be done for ground cables. If your seen a big voltage spike when starting the car you need to address that area.

 

This is funny, after trying to help out in this thread,
I went to crank my car and everything worked, push the start button
and the solenoid click 100 times.
Check voltage at battery, 12 volts, still clicking.
Put new battery in fire right up.
Gauges don't sweep no more either. Which is a sign of a weak battery,
I found out in another thread.
Battery was 7 years old.

 

I sometimes have little faith in the factory gauges. I feel like I'm being lied to every time I get in my car.

 

Yeah, there kind of like "dummy" gauges.
They don't read the same as my Autometers.

 

George! All good my VSpeed brother

I think some of you guys are over thinking this battery thing. FWIW, I bought the Tick relocate kit and contains smaller gauge than most "recommend". Maintained battery and GOOD grounds/connections....no issue.

 

X's 2. Have used 4 gauge for years with excellent results.

 

I know all of the "The internet says you are wrong" people are going to hate on me for saying this, but I used 4GA high quality speaker wire to do my battery relocate on my car, and I have not had a single problem with starting. I have the push/pull cut-off switch also. I have mine run like this:

Positive batt terminal -> cutoff switch / cutoffswitch -> starter / starter -> Main fuse terminal

And then a 2nd wire for:

Alternator -> Battery

Done.

 

There is a difference between something done right and something that just works.

I'm all about the just works.........however it never just works for me.

 

Do it right, do it lite. Do it wrong, do it long.