Line lock issues
Thread Starter
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 8,485
Likes: 1,032
From: Wichita, KS
Line lock issues I'm working with an old 79 mazda master cyl. It has two ports off the dist. block for the front brakes and one to the back. So it's easier to install the line lock on the Aft brakes.
I'm installing a line lock to aid in doing my burnout at the track and thought the line lock solenoid was just a simple ON/OFF valve. So instead of putting the line lock solenoid on the front brake I put it on the aft. Thinking if I had the line lock engaged and pressed the brakes only the front brakes would work. leaving the aft brakes free to spin for the burnout. So I installed it this way. When I press the line lock and then apply the brakes the brake pressure is blowing through the solenoid, still going to the AFT wheels.
Is this solenoid just crap, or will a line lock not work installed this way? Do I need to reverse the inlet/outlet ports when doing it this way?
According to wikipedia I should be good.
I'm installing a line lock to aid in doing my burnout at the track and thought the line lock solenoid was just a simple ON/OFF valve. So instead of putting the line lock solenoid on the front brake I put it on the aft. Thinking if I had the line lock engaged and pressed the brakes only the front brakes would work. leaving the aft brakes free to spin for the burnout. So I installed it this way. When I press the line lock and then apply the brakes the brake pressure is blowing through the solenoid, still going to the AFT wheels.
Is this solenoid just crap, or will a line lock not work installed this way? Do I need to reverse the inlet/outlet ports when doing it this way?
According to wikipedia I should be good.
Additionally, line locks can be installed on the rear brake lines. When the line lock is activated, fluid pressure is prevented from being transferred to the rear, allowing the rear wheels to spin freely while the front brakes can be controlled with the brake pedal. This allows one to creep at varying speeds while maintaining a burnout. Achieving such a burnout requires manipulation of both throttle and brake inputs. The burnout is initiated by manipulating the clutch with the left foot and both the brake and gas pedal with the right foot. The brakes must be held while revving up the engine, then the clutch is released while continuing to hold the brakes. Once the rear tires start spinning, the left foot is used to control the brakes while the right foot continues to control the throttle. The only main advantage for such a setup would be the ability to maintain a burnout at low speeds, and to reduce the wear on the rear brakes while doing a burnout. Such an application would only be practical for show purposes such as drifting exhibitions, or just for fun. [6]
Last edited by Forcefed86; Feb 16, 2014 at 04:05 PM.
They work better when installed in the front. The goal is to lock the front brakes, and allow the rears to spin freely. To activate, you press the brake pedal, push and hold the button, and let off the brake. Now the front brakes are locked, and the rears can spin freely. As soon as you release the button, the front brakes come unlocked, and away you go. You want to install this on the front brakes, so you can control off and on with a single button under your finger. Your feet have enough to do.
You can put them in the rear, but operation is different. Pressing the button will close the valve, and not allow any fluid through. Then mash on the brake pedal to lock the front brakes. Since the rear brakes lines are blocked, they receive no pressure and remain free. To release the front brakes, release the brake pedal. If you accidentally release the button, the rears will suddenly gain full brake pressure.
There's a big down side to the rear option. If you close that valve, and then mash the brake pedal, the single cylinder MC will press against the valve, and prevent it from reaching full pressure in the front. Doesn't work as well to hold the car during a burn out.
The second issue is that it's not as convenient on the street. When I'm on a hill, I press the brake pedal, then hold the button with my finger, which closes the valve and maintain pressure in the front brakes. As long as I hold the button, the car won't roll. When the light turns green, I start adding clutch and gas, and then let off the brakes. Very handy. The way you have it, you'll have to add clutch with the left foot, hold the brake with right foot, and add gas with the right foot.
As to your specific valve, if it's allowing pressure through when activated, it's not working. Start by making sure it is actually getting power.
You can put them in the rear, but operation is different. Pressing the button will close the valve, and not allow any fluid through. Then mash on the brake pedal to lock the front brakes. Since the rear brakes lines are blocked, they receive no pressure and remain free. To release the front brakes, release the brake pedal. If you accidentally release the button, the rears will suddenly gain full brake pressure.
There's a big down side to the rear option. If you close that valve, and then mash the brake pedal, the single cylinder MC will press against the valve, and prevent it from reaching full pressure in the front. Doesn't work as well to hold the car during a burn out.
The second issue is that it's not as convenient on the street. When I'm on a hill, I press the brake pedal, then hold the button with my finger, which closes the valve and maintain pressure in the front brakes. As long as I hold the button, the car won't roll. When the light turns green, I start adding clutch and gas, and then let off the brakes. Very handy. The way you have it, you'll have to add clutch with the left foot, hold the brake with right foot, and add gas with the right foot.
As to your specific valve, if it's allowing pressure through when activated, it's not working. Start by making sure it is actually getting power.
Last edited by .boB; Feb 16, 2014 at 03:59 PM.
Thread Starter
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 8,485
Likes: 1,032
From: Wichita, KS
They work better when installed in the front. The goal is to lock the front brakes, and allow the rears to spin freely. To activate, you press the brake pedal, push and hold the button, and let off the brake. Now the front brakes are locked, and the rears can spin freely. As soon as you release the button, the front brakes come unlocked, and away you go. You want to install this on the front brakes, so you can control off and on with a single button under your finger. Your feet have enough to do.
You can put them in the rear, but operation is different. Pressing the button will close the valve, and not allow any fluid through. Then mash on the brake pedal to lock the front brakes. Since the rear brakes lines are blocked, they receive no pressure and remain free. To release the front brakes, release the brake pedal. If you accidentally release the button, the rears will suddenly gain full brake pressure.
There's a big down side to the rear option. If you close that valve, and then mash the brake pedal, the single cylinder MC will press against the valve, and prevent it from reaching full pressure in the front. Doesn't work as well to hold the car during a burn out.
The second issue is that it's not as convenient on the street. When I'm on a hill, I press the brake pedal, then hold the button with my finger, which closes the valve and maintain pressure in the front brakes. As long as I hold the button, the car won't roll. When the light turns green, I start adding clutch and gas, and then let off the brakes. Very handy. The way you have it, you'll have to add clutch with the left foot, hold the brake with right foot, and add gas with the right foot.
You can put them in the rear, but operation is different. Pressing the button will close the valve, and not allow any fluid through. Then mash on the brake pedal to lock the front brakes. Since the rear brakes lines are blocked, they receive no pressure and remain free. To release the front brakes, release the brake pedal. If you accidentally release the button, the rears will suddenly gain full brake pressure.
There's a big down side to the rear option. If you close that valve, and then mash the brake pedal, the single cylinder MC will press against the valve, and prevent it from reaching full pressure in the front. Doesn't work as well to hold the car during a burn out.
The second issue is that it's not as convenient on the street. When I'm on a hill, I press the brake pedal, then hold the button with my finger, which closes the valve and maintain pressure in the front brakes. As long as I hold the button, the car won't roll. When the light turns green, I start adding clutch and gas, and then let off the brakes. Very handy. The way you have it, you'll have to add clutch with the left foot, hold the brake with right foot, and add gas with the right foot.
Yours is not working correctly. It should completely close the circuit and not allow any fluid through. Check to make sure it's getting power first. When activated, you should feel or hear a click.
Thread Starter
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 8,485
Likes: 1,032
From: Wichita, KS
Per the instructions it indicates I should have the top port supply from the brake master. I'm wondering if I need to reverse the ports since I'm essentially using the system backwards from it's original design. Or if maybe the solenoid is just junk.
My solenoid works like yours is right now. After I've engaged it, I can push more fluid through it, although I don't. I think installing yours the other way around would work for what you're trying to do.
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Thread Starter
Joined: May 2011
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From: Wichita, KS
As in swapping the ports? Or as in moving the solenoid to the forward brakes?
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When I engage my line lock (installed on the front brakes) I can add additional brake pressure by stepping on the brake pedal after engaging the solenoid. It acts more like a one-way valve than an actual stopper. It allows you to increase the pressure being applied to the front brakes while not letting the rear get any pressure. This is how they are designed to work. I would recommend getting a second solenoid and simply putting one solenoid to each front wheel.
So you are using the line lock as a blocking device to the rear wheels instead of a device to lock the front wheels? You would rather hold the brake pedal down while doing a burn out instead of a button? Seems a little *** backwards to me.
Thread Starter
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 8,485
Likes: 1,032
From: Wichita, KS
*** backwards, maybe... But it's a simple on/off valve, what difference does it really make? Doing it this way is much easier the way my master cylinder is setup in this old car. Swapping the ports worked. Everything seems to be working just fine.
Then your valve is not working correctly. Once closed, it should not allow any fluid to pass in either direction.
I don't remember what brand mine is, but I think it's Summit. I have no idea who made it. But once locked, that's it. You can not add additional pressure to the brakes. It's an On-Off valve.
I don't remember what brand mine is, but I think it's Summit. I have no idea who made it. But once locked, that's it. You can not add additional pressure to the brakes. It's an On-Off valve.
Mine is an old (circa 2000-02) SLP valve. It was on another car when brand new and it did the same thing. Allowed us to flip the switch pulling out of the water box, step in the brakes to come to a stop, then pump them up and add additional pressure to the fronts. Do your burnout, flip the switch and roll out of it. Same way I do all my burnouts with every line lock equipped car I've ever driven.