mgood613

iTrader: (1)

I have a 1999 Camaro Z28 LS1, Mods below. I have subframe connectors, BMR torque arm, QP 9in 4.11 with adjustable lower control arm positions, bmr lower control arms, bmr adjustable track bar, Bmr adjustable torque arm relocator.

I just installed Viking DA coil overs w/350 springs, and stock rear springs with hose mod, rear kyb non adj/shocks.

My rear control arms are in the lowest position, the front torque arm is in the third from the top hole(60 ft 1.7).( I had it up one hole but it got worse 60 ft(1.8).

They say that putting the front torque arm all the way up will hit the tires harder but I seem to get worse traction.

I'm running 26 10.5 16 Mickey Thompson E/T street Bias Ply at 12 psi leaving at 3800, anything more and it's uncontrolled spinning.

I'm running the front shocks at 14 comp, 2 rebound

ANy help would be appreciated, below is a attached video of the launch.

11.76 at 119mph 1.7 60ft

I'm full weight and the front wheels are 17x9 torque thrust with 275's

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5DD_...ature=youtu.be

dezlfrek

iTrader: (1)

looks like you need more tire.. right at the hit it looks like you almost flatten that tire out.. I would try more air pressure and see if that helps..

NW Iowa WS6

iTrader: (9)

My car is very similar to you but I run 26x11.5x15 et streets, 15psi warm and launch off the rev limiter(6650) little to no spin and a **** prep track. Stock rear shocks and springs, lcas in lowest hole, torque arm 4 out of 4 steepest position, front is no sway, 275# springs and QA1Rs with 0 rebound, heavy 17x9.5 front wheels......also have rear mounted battery and chromoly kmember and no A/C

NW Iowa WS6

iTrader: (9)

Tire wise id say if you can afford it id find some like mine(1" wider and 1" more sidewall) if you want to stay 26" or Hoosier makes a DOT approved 27x11.5x15 if you dont want to a run a 28"

flintwrench69

iTrader: (11)

I'm running 15 x 10 billet specialties & when I had 26x10.5x15 et street bias on them I got consistent 1.7 60s leaving at 5500. Best I ever did on them tires was a 1.69, at lapeer anyway. I got some 1.6s at mid Michigan but their track prep is so much better. This is with front sway bar removed & front runners. If I tried launching it any higher I would spin some. When I switched tires to some 26x10x15 et drags (which is a slightly narrower tire, 9.8 vs 10.3 inch tread surface but also taller 26.5 in)1st time out launched it at 5500 it bogged a decent amount. These tires dead hook so well I had to put screws in the wheels cuz the wheel was spinning in the tire. I usually launch it at 6k & it dead hooks, get consistent low 1.6s, usually 1.61. Did get a 1.59 once.

Mgood613, your car is working very well with what you got on a track like lapeer. 3 things you can do & your times will improve: 1. Switch to a full slick tire, 2. get a set of front runners, 3. SSRA will pick up another .2 & 1-2 mph. Going to Milan will improve your 60 times.

mgood613

iTrader: (1)

Thank you guys very much,

mgood613

iTrader: (1)

I should have added that I have the front sway bar removed, and pinion angle is -2.

With the 3.90 (10 bolt)gears it hooked a little better but I put the 4.11's (9in)in because I am getting close to hitting the limiter in 4th through the 1/4 and plan to go with 28's when I had a little more power.

Have you guys run 28's? How much of the bumper do you have to cut? I'm looking at 28" on 16's.

I really didn't want to buy front runners and 15's as I don't plan on caging the car and I am already close to 11.5's.

I wouldn't mind going with a slick but can't find one in 16" or have I missed one?

Just trying to get the car dialed before I go with 1.85 rockers, and fast intake and throttle body.

NW Iowa WS6

iTrader: (9)

No bumper cutting for 28's, just rolling the fenders if your lowered and some BFH'ng to the inner fender metal lowered or not. Also I know some guys have had good results with skinnies up front and I wanted them bad hoping for a good half tenth in the 60' and .5-1mph top end until I did back to back passes switching the tires one night at my track. 17x9.5 Z06 wheels with Nitto 255's I was cutting 1.62-1.64 for my first 4 passes. Then tried my buddies 15x3.5 Centerlines with 165 tires expecting quite a bit I did a 1.61 and a 1.62 and only gained 0.2mph. Granted it pulled the front left up about 6" that my car never does with the heavy 17's for the price skinnies are not a good mod for the money(or hassle of changing 2 more wheels every track day if you don't run them in street trim) in my experience.

flintwrench69

iTrader: (11)

A lot less rolling resistance, better weight transfer from less weight on the nose. They work or you wouldn't see them on just about every fast drag car. I drive mine on the street & to the track with slicks & front runners, not a big deal.

guppymech

iTrader: (7)

You don't mention the TP for the fronts but bumping the pressure up to 40-45 psi in the 275s helps at the track.

mgood613

iTrader: (1)

40psi

NW Iowa WS6

iTrader: (9)

Im not saying they never help but on my car the $500-1k depending how nice of ones you choose isnt worth me only gaining 0.01 in the 60' and 0.2mph up top, not to mention changing them in my tiny garage with 1 jack and 1 set of 1/2" handtools haha

NW Iowa WS6

iTrader: (9)

I also air my front nittos up to 45psi

nocooler

iTrader: (5)

Move the torque arm down - and set the control arms @ 2* downhill to the rear end.

Moving the torque arm down will transfer more weight and keep it transferred longer.

- this is what you are looking for. Clutch was done after that pass - so the mph was down. That was a 1.49 60' - car goes consistent high 1.4's low 1.5's

flintwrench69

iTrader: (11)

That's good advice but you're running at mid Michigan=excellent track! I could just about dead hook a street tire there lol! He won't see 1.4s at lapeer, especially with his tire setup.

flintwrench69

iTrader: (11)

My 1st set I bought used with like new tires for under $400. Sold them for $350. Now I got some billets that were more $$$. My SS isn't a daily driver so I been leaving the drag wheels on, drive it to the track & some weekend racing. But good for at least .1-2 & 2 mph.

nocooler

iTrader: (5)

Mid Michigan has gone down hill over the last few years. TNT it's mediocre at best.

When they do put the glue out it's nice.

mgood613

iTrader: (1)

My rear control arms are 5* to the rear end and front torque arm is third hole down from the top on torque arm relocator.

I thought you wanted the rear control arms as far down and the front torque arm all the way up to get the best traction off the line?

My understanding was to back down the front if you started losing traction on the big end or braking?

mgood613

iTrader: (1)

nocooler, what size tires are those on the rear?

nocooler

iTrader: (5)

28X10.5 ET Drag Stiff sidewall.

I can only tell you what has helped me - your results may differ. There are a few good posts by Madman and Eric @ MWC about this.

Each car is different you just need to find what works.