greenvortec97

iTrader: (1)

http://www.ebay.com/itm/161213005727


Been searching for a while now on something that is sealed off..

I remember someone telling me it needs to be closed off and sealed (not in plastic) and have a vent, which clearly the picture depicts both.

any objections? I know I'd need to fabricate some mounts and all.




pretty big box

ironmanLS1

iTrader: (9)

There are good plastic boxes that are NHRA approved. It either needs to be in a box and vented, in the case of an F body or can be open if you can seal the trunk area off from the driver compartment with a rear firewall. Either way it needs to be secured with (2) 3/8" bolt or rod. When relocating to the rear you also are required to have an external shut off switch on the positive side of the battery.

greenvortec97

iTrader: (1)

Do you think the 17ft of positive cable is enough to go to the starter?

FirstGen F-Body

iTrader: (3)

im going to be buying cable soon, when i did a rough measurement just to get an idea i came up with 15.

ironmanLS1

iTrader: (9)

No idea, best bet is to get a piece of string, rope or small wire and lay it out.

transampetews6

iTrader: (31)

Here's a link to the NHRA role book.

http://www.nhra.com/UserFiles/file/G...egulations.pdf

The rules state that the battery needs to be mounted to the frame rail and in a box or behind a firewall (which are cars don't have). the box makes the most sense. It can be an approve plastic box or metal one. BMR makes a tray that mounts to the frame rail in the spare tire well.
You need a cut off switch that shuts off the car. In order to do that you will need to run two wires one to connect the starter and fuse panel and another to connect to the alternator on the battery side of the switch. Here's another link for a diagram.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/attachmen...1233334884.jpg

This is a project I've been thinking of doing for awhile. In order to do it right it's gonna cost about $600 or more. That's money I'd rather spend on other stuff right now.

Hope that helps....

sweetbmxrider

iTrader: (13)

I used the moroso blue battery box. They don't list the wire size in that listing which is important. I used high quality 1/0 cable used for high end audio setups.

I believe wolf racing makes a bulkhead for the rear of an f body to create an NHRA legal firewall.

TTur1996

Burkhart Chassis has a very nice billet mount that bolts right into the spare tire well. If your doing a bulkhead. Its not that much more. If you buy that one from ebay. You might want to check and make sure the cable is at least 2ga. IMO that would be the smallest I would go with. We used 1/0 cable. We ordered ours from Summit. Because none of the stereo shops around us had red. Cheaper too.

greenvortec97

iTrader: (1)

It came in today, you get what you pay for but this will work great, mounted the box in the T top area. The cable I don't know what gauge it is but I'll snap some pictures for you guys later on today

I could feel the car "sit down" when I placed the battery in the rear. I couldn't believe how much it really affected it being in the front


"All batteries must be securely mounted; must be of sufficient
capacity to start vehicle at any time. Batteries may not be relocated
into the driver or passenger compartments. Rear firewall of .024-
inch steel or .032-inch aluminum (including package tray) required
when battery is relocated in trunk. In lieu of rear firewall, battery
may be located in a sealed .024-inch steel, .032-inch aluminum, or
NHRA-accepted poly box. If sealed box is used in lieu of rear
firewall, box may not be used to secure battery and must be vented
outside of body. Relocated battery(s) must be fastened to frame or
frame structure with a minimum of two 3/8-inch-diameter bolts.
OEM located batteries without complete OEM hold-down hardware
must be secured to OEM battery box/tray using the same 3/8-inchdiameter
bolt hold-down method described in previous sentence.
(“J” hooks prohibited or must have open end welded shut.) Metal
battery hold-down straps mandatory. Strapping tape prohibited. A
maximum of two automobile batteries, or 150 pounds combined
maximum weight (unless otherwise specified in Class
Requirements), is permitted. Maximums may vary according to
Class Requirements." I think i'm in the clear putting it where the T tops go

Doug G

Using a Ford solenoid mounted next to/near battery is a smart idea too. This way the large positive cable in only hot during cranking

greenvortec97

iTrader: (1)

My car doesn't crank very long. Starts up in the first second! But that does seem like valuable info. I'm gonna save it!

transampetews6

iTrader: (31)

still need a cut off switch and that's not mounted to the frame rail.

greenvortec97

iTrader: (1)

Would that bottom part not be considered part of the frame structure?

transampetews6

iTrader: (31)

The frame is the high part between the t-top well and the spare tire well. BMR makes a bracket that mounts in the spare tire well but it can be adapted for other locations. I don't know for sure if it would fail in the trunk or not. I'm just trying to interpret the rules. Like I said in an earlier post, to do this right cost about $600. Most people would rather spend that kind of money on something like a light weight K-member or light weight bumper supports. That way you're removing weight instead of moving it around. Battery relocation should be one of the last things you should consider doing.

transampetews6

iTrader: (31)

I like the idea that you're turning off power to the long cable from the trunk to the engine bay except for when you're starting the car. I don't understand the purpose of the fusible links.

Doug G

I didn't use them.
BUT...I guess IF these was an issue somehow, they would pop Vs. a burn-down ?

transampetews6

iTrader: (31)

Damn!!!!

sweetbmxrider

iTrader: (13)

What about the large positive cable from the alternator that is always hot when wired as per NHRA's rule?

Doug G

You want the disconnect with the 4 posts (kills power from/to Alt....see below) and I only run an 8ga wire from alt to switch (but a fusible-link would be a good idea there too).
Mine is done more like this diagram (other one was the way MAD does it)


http://static.speedwaymotors.com/RS/...91064501_L.jpg

sweetbmxrider

iTrader: (13)

Having two posts or four posts doesn't make a difference for wiring up a kill switch. Adding a fusible link, an inline fuse, or a circuit breaker on the alternator wire is what you need to "kill" the hot wire that is always hot (depending how its wired).

I would think 8 gauge is a little small for the alternator? If it works, it works.