Roll racing Tire selection
Roll racing Tire selection Seeking advise from any of you that "roll race" on prepped conditions. Im debating on a dedicated set of tires for the TX2K15 roll race event. I am currently running 315/40/17 NT05r tires and they don't like the street one bit.. I mean 100MPH 4th gear *** end getting a little loose type ****. However 3rd/4th gear when heated up stick fine on the track, well at 16.5lbs anyways..
So my question is this.. Stick with the 17" NT05r tires or look into the Mickey Thompson ET street bias ply tire. I hear the biased ply will generally be a little slower but if they allow me to ramp all 21-25lbs in over say 1.5sec over my current 2.5sec than the difference might be beneficial. Also i have a pair of 16" wheels lying around so what ever tire i select will be a 16r
Anyone with extensive tire experience in a light car making a lot of power please chime in.
So my question is this.. Stick with the 17" NT05r tires or look into the Mickey Thompson ET street bias ply tire. I hear the biased ply will generally be a little slower but if they allow me to ramp all 21-25lbs in over say 1.5sec over my current 2.5sec than the difference might be beneficial. Also i have a pair of 16" wheels lying around so what ever tire i select will be a 16r
Anyone with extensive tire experience in a light car making a lot of power please chime in.
Last edited by oscs; Mar 9, 2015 at 02:14 PM.
I wouldn't mix bias ply's on the back of the car with radials up front especially with the territory this event comes with. Your best bet would be a fresh set of radials, Mickey Thompson or Hoosier.
How wide is the 16" wheel?
How wide is the 16" wheel?
I figured with a set of ET streets (BP) Instead of drags i might be ok. I know they are both biased ply but not sure if the exact differences. 16" rim is 8" wide. Are the NT05r that bad of a tire? They got great reviews when i was looking and seem to hook up fine on the track. What im trying to avoid is buying another set of DR.. I cant see the MT ET street radial being THAT much better than the NT05r Radial, well not from a roll anyways on a prepped surface. I could be wrong though.
Last edited by oscs; Mar 10, 2015 at 12:22 PM.
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If you can get some 15" wheels on the rear i'd go with the MT Pro radials. Its what I run and they are really sticky. Even more so sticky than the MT ET radials i had previously.
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Verdad Gallardo Yeah I keep reading MT is the way to go. It's funny though becuase when I was doing my research I couldn't find a single bad thing about the NT05r.. Guess I wasn't looking hard enough.
Per mickey thompson's chart the e/t street radials are already a pretty soft compound. The pro radial would be nice but it is for a 15" wheel and it's a 28 compared to your short sub 26" tire your currently running.
A fresh set of e/t street radials or Hoosiers on that 16" wheel goes a long way over what your running now. Given your limited options, that's what I'd go with over the 17" wheel to get some sidewall back there.
A fresh set of e/t street radials or Hoosiers on that 16" wheel goes a long way over what your running now. Given your limited options, that's what I'd go with over the 17" wheel to get some sidewall back there.
Per mickey thompson's chart the e/t street radials are already a pretty soft compound. The pro radial would be nice but it is for a 15" wheel and it's a 28 compared to your short sub 26" tire your currently running. A fresh set of e/t street radials or Hoosiers on that 16" wheel goes a long way over what your running now. Given your limited options, that's what I'd go with over the 17" wheel to get some sidewall back there.
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The only radial that has a chance of hooking 1000 WHP is the M/T DR Pro, but it only comes in 275/60-15, and is 28" tall. You really need a 10" rim to hook that power.
For a manual transmission, some stiff wall M/T ET Drags in the back and bias ply skinnies in the front will cover both drag and roll racing. Any of these other lesser options are just "steps", and in the end you will just keep buying different tires.
With radials and a manual trans, you run a great risk of wheel hop, especially the 17" size that is on there now. What rear diff is in the car? Not the original 280Z diff I hope.
Al
For a manual transmission, some stiff wall M/T ET Drags in the back and bias ply skinnies in the front will cover both drag and roll racing. Any of these other lesser options are just "steps", and in the end you will just keep buying different tires.
With radials and a manual trans, you run a great risk of wheel hop, especially the 17" size that is on there now. What rear diff is in the car? Not the original 280Z diff I hope.
Al
The only radial that has a chance of hooking 1000 WHP is the M/T DR Pro, but it only comes in 275/60-15, and is 28" tall. You really need a 10" rim to hook that power.
For a manual transmission, some stiff wall M/T ET Drags in the back and bias ply skinnies in the front will cover both drag and roll racing. Any of these other lesser options are just "steps", and in the end you will just keep buying different tires.
With radials and a manual trans, you run a great risk of wheel hop, especially the 17" size that is on there now. What rear diff is in the car? Not the original 280Z diff I hope.
Al
For a manual transmission, some stiff wall M/T ET Drags in the back and bias ply skinnies in the front will cover both drag and roll racing. Any of these other lesser options are just "steps", and in the end you will just keep buying different tires.
With radials and a manual trans, you run a great risk of wheel hop, especially the 17" size that is on there now. What rear diff is in the car? Not the original 280Z diff I hope.
Al
The diff is a VLSD Q45 diff with beefed up everything.. Well the diff is stock but they are stout.
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Take as much camber as possible out of the rear alignment settings for straight line traction. You probably won't get it all the way to "0" since the car looks lowered, unless they make adjustable control arms.
Al
Al
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For roll racing, you could get away with a little higher tire pressures for stability like 25 psi. From a standing stop, I would not go over 16-17 psi, to limit the chance of wheelhop.
Hopefully you won't have an issue with the PRO's not being DOT legal.
Al
Hopefully you won't have an issue with the PRO's not being DOT legal.
Al
They are DOT legal. They say not for road use (track only) but they carry the DOT stamp of approval.
Last edited by oscs; Mar 12, 2015 at 11:29 AM.