I'm putting this thing on tomorrow and just want reassured. With the car level and the end links in the middle of their range of adjustment weld them in. Then with the driver in the car leave the driver side neutral as in can be wiggled around then preload the pass side one full turn?

 

Minimum one turn yes.

 

Correct for the most part. We normally lengthen the passenger side to preload.

 

I got mine welded in, adjusted one turn longer on the passenger side, drove some, then went to the track. Well the car was pulling the driver tire just like before the bar. When I got back under the car, the bar showed the passenger side actually shorter then the driver. So I adjusted it again, and took it back out and it leaves level now. The moral, check it after a while.

 

Bringing this one back..

I'm about to purchase a MWC ARB.

How and why do you have to measure the distance between the mounting holes on the rear end?

When welding in the tabs. You have to do this with the suspension loaded as if it were sitting on the ground correct?

 

Im not really understanding your questions. The roll bar itself bolts to the rear end. Then it hangs there and can pivot from 6 oclock to almost straight up and down maybe 11 oclock. You would then assemble the end lengths to a neutral length, attach them or one, then bolt the weld tab to it so one side is complete. Hold it up to the car until you get the sway bar level with the ground say the 9 oclock position, that's where you want your tab welded to the car.

 

Midwest drag bar:

 

Found this in another thread. Wasn't sure if he was talking about the MWC bar or the other ones that come with their own mounts for the rear end?

My main question is can you weld the tabs for the links with the suspension at full droop or does it have to be at ride height (loaded)? How do you know where the right location is to weld the tabs to the car?

 

Quick pic of the location. There really is only one spot that the weld on brackets fit into place.

Drivers side location



Passenger side



I apologize for the horrible picture representation but I hope it helps show where to locate the weld on ARB tabs. When welding on the tabs what you aim for in a perfect world is having the link and the ARB arm make a perfect 90 at ride height. This will most likely never be obtained but you want to get as close as possible.

 

Here is a link to installation.

http://www.midwestchassis.com/upload...ructionsv2.pdf

 

Thanks that helps clear it up. I'll be placing my order today or tomorrow

 

Just get the bolt-in brackets. They go in the factory location.
If you like, you can then weld them also.

 

This is very true however you do pay more for them with the kit and not designed for higher HP vehicles and once you do reach a point it is a must that you weld them in place.

 

What's the hp limit on the bolt-in brackets?

 

Depends on combination, transmission, and tire but around 700 is the limit.

 

Would using the bolt in brackets and then welding them be just as solid and capable?

 

The bolt-in brackets are a lot beefier in construction.
That's the ones I have, I haven't welded them but I put an extra self tapping screw inside the bracket.
I like the way they bolt in the factory locations, no guessing where to mount them.

 

Yes we actually have a lot of customers that buy them and then weld them on.

 

That's the main reason why we made for the ease of installation.

 

The nice thing about weld on tabs is the fact you have more adjustment for install based off your ride height in attempt to create that 90 degree angle between the link and arm. It will work more than adequate not at a perfect 90 but a 90 is what you shoot for.

As you can see based off the provided pictures there isn't a lot of movement for the weld on tabs to be placed.