I blew my engine a few weeks back.
I just picked up another LS1 with 100k on it

Trying to figure out which set up will be faster.
The car is race only 1/8 bracket car on OLSD tune.
I think full race weight is about 2650-2750
The car is on E85. 3.73 12bolt 4l60e
With stock heads 228/232 .600 112LSA cam and 3800 yank, I ran 7.2-7.4

Here is what I have:
stock LS1 heads
Stage 2.5 5.3L heads
228/232 .600 .600 112LSA
237/242 .603"/.609" 112LSA MS3

I would love to take advantage of the E85 and bump compression up, but not sure about PTV clearance. Could heads be shaved?

Also should I restall my converter?
I want to get all I can get out of the car, but want to shift at 6500 max. I race it a lot.
I am hoping for 6.8-6.9

Right now I run 26" et streets and it shifts right before the finish line.
I was thinking about trying 29.5" tires to get it to only shift once and be at full power at the stripe. Right now it suck not having power at the big end if I need to get out of it and get back in it to drive the finish line.

I also have a set of comp lifters with about 3k passes on them. They were in an engine that blew before this one. Would it be worth installing them or are they junk?
Some other things I have from that engine are ARP bolts and Rollmaster double roller timing chain. Also ported oil pump.

 

I would put the second cam in it with the stg 2.5 heads milled to whatever. I'd shoot for 11-12:1 compression if you can get that tight with the ptv clearance. Instead of going to a 29.5" tire, I'd put a 4.56 in it with a 28" tire.

A 28" tire with a 4.56 in high gear and guessing about 15% slip in the converter at the 1/8th: 6500 rpm should net you around 103 mph with should put you in the 6.80 range. At 2700 lbs, it'll take around 450 horsepower to net 103 mph, which should be doable with the combo above.

Happy drag racing!

 

You need to bump your rev limiter a tad, not go to a 28" tire.

 

5.3 and ms3 has to be fly cut pistons

 

Track only car? How light is the car, etc?

 

I think full race weight is about 2650-2750

 

If your only running eighth mile id stick with the 26in tall tires, put the 2nd cam in and get as big a stall as you can get... like a 5000 stall. She will really like it out the hole then. As far as rpm range, you may need to add more gear if anything but I definitely wouldn't add a taller tire

 

I would make two phone calls. First would be to Martin at Tick Performance. Let him spec you out a cam for your combo. Next would be a call to Dave at Yank to tell him your combo, and let him tell you what stall you need. You have to be brutely honest with him to get it right the first time. As for tires. I agree with Blown06. More sidewall better traction. 28 Would be a min. IMO. Everything should be decided before the call to Yank. We run a Yank ourselves, and love it.

 

I agree with a cam for your needs, 28 inch tall tire and gear accordingly, but I would not, bother with a yank converter. If you are going to have a converter built, call Lenny at Ultimate Converter Concepts, that would be my first choice, 2nd would be Neil chance, etc.

Yank converters are great for a guy that wants to drive around, but if you're looking for ET, I wouldn't go that route. Never seen one run right as a good custom one will.

 

Why do you think that is? Spec'd better? The fact that it would probably be a smaller diameter/more effecient converter? I'm curious because yanks PT series is a pretty nasty NA converter, and his PY series I think is for the boosted guys. Im pretty sure he keeps to specific internals and diameters so I guess that limits what they can make?.....

 

So why is it, that no other converter company will go up against Yank on a Dyno comparison. I'm not going to dog out any converter companies. Yank has the fastest 60 ft. times. Ours to say the least is impressive. It is a custom billet converter. And yes it works perfect on, or off the track. 20 different people will tell you 20 different things. Yank, PTC, Neil Chance, Circle D, and many more. They all make very good converters. Its basically just a matter of preference. You already have a Yank. I would just call Dave and get his thoughts. The best way to get the converter right on the money is to have the motor dynode so you can tell him real horsepower, and not guess-ta-mated. Too many people order a converter before they are done with their build. And either listen to a buddy when ordering or change things on the motor. Then go to the track and it doesn't work perfect so they dog out the converter company. Then the next time they do it right with another company. And then that's the company to use. Be brutally honest with everything. And it will be right with whoever you use. Best of Luck with your build. Should be very fun.

 

Here's a Yank in my buddy's C6Z street car. A 1.22 sixty is not too shabby IMHO.
http://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/...post1585448394

 

Yep. Not too shabby at all. ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^LOL BMF for Sure. Very nice.
Most people would kill for that 60'

 

Show me a comp car, super stock, fast ultra street, x275, outlaw 10.5, big tire, or fast grudge car that's running a yank converter.

I'll put my UCC and Neil chance converter up against any yank converter any day.

 

I wasn't even gonna go there. They're just baby fish in a big pond, let them play and have their fun.

 

Lol, I knew that was coming lol, but I can say I've had success thus far with yank. Had the same PT4400 for over ten years now. The guys running them classes probably have $2k dollar convertors and I bet most of them run a coan, ati, or a neil chance convertors

 

The OP has a street car. Did you read the motor build? He doesn't need a 5000.00 converter. And he already has a Yank. That was the whole point from the beginning. Why tell him to spend a lot of money, for basically no reason.

 

Don't forget FTI converters if your looking

 

FYI would actually be a good choice I know and have spoken with Greg a few times. There's like 5 companies that make converter parts and everyone buys from each other until you get into the bolt together stuff, which are where you see 3000 plus pieces of hardware the op doesn't need.

I'd call Greg and see if he can redo your yank converter OP. Or sell it to one of these guys that think they are gods gift and see what Greg can build you. They are reasonably priced and will for sure perform like you're looking for.