When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
About 2 weeks ago my buddy(inyczoddjobz) and I were walking around a local car meet. He spotted a guy he knew who told us of a car his neighbor was selling, a 1999 Trans Am. Naturally we were interested so we went to go check it out a few miles away.
The car is a 1999 Trans Am A4 owned practically since birth by a middle aged woman. Mechanically the car was flawless, and bone stock. Cosmetically.....well it was owned by a middle aged woman. There is more clear base paint than there is clear coat, from years of sun abuse. And I think there are more scratches than paint. Lets consider that weight reduction.
Isn't the best fitting aftermarket WS6 hood I have ever seen....I can practically change the headlight without opening the hood. Well anyway, after checking the car out Inyczoddjobz decided he had to have it.
And so it began....
Edit: Remember I said I can practically fit my hand between the headlight/hood gap? I actually can apparently.
Last edited by danheller88; 09-15-2015 at 04:21 AM.
After buying the car and driving it home, we realized we had absolutely no ideas or plans for the car. So we did the only logical thing we could think of....start unbolting ****.
Next thing I know, I cut a speaker wire....and the car won't run anymore? I know I didn't mess up....So I decided to take the night off and start fresh the next day.
And by start fresh the next day I mean unbolt some more ****.
You know when you pay a professional company to install your new fancy aftermarket alarm? Well what they actually do is electronically rape your car. Inycoddjobz and I spent hours tracking down the entire interior harness of the car because of this. They cut and taped, not spliced...actually cut wires, twisted them and taped, the entire system in. Accessory cable in the column, cut in half, wires going to BCM cut in half, you get the picture.
What actually happened when I cut that speaker wire was when they cut some of the BCM wires, they replaced the factory wiring with speaker cable and tucked it away.....
Anyway, street car problems we want a race car so not our problem.
Sitting in the living room that night we realized...well we gotta make some pow pow to be a race car now, what do we do? Ordered some 1 7/8" Headers an exhaust and Lid obviously....
Oh yea...and these.
Strange S60
-Spool
-4.56 Gears(Getting swapped out)
-Strange 35 Spline Axles
Wolfe Drag Bar
Strange Drag Brakes
BMR Panhard Bar
BMR LCA's
BMR Cross Member
Freddy Brown Built TH400 w/ T Brake and RMVB
Driveshaft
I believe the next order of business is going to be:
Remove Heater Core
Remove AC System
Remove AIR
Remove EGR
Remove Front Sway Bar
Remove Driver Air Bag
Fix Headlight Motor
Remove Door Speakers
Remove Wiper Assembly
Remove Under Trays
Remove Inner Fender Liners
I will see if I can knock most of this out this week hopefully. Waiting for parts stinks =[
TSP 1 7/8" Headers
TSP OR-Y
SLP Lid
SLP Bellow
KN Filter
SLP Loud Mouth I
I have previously had the experience of an SLP with LT's back in 05/06 when I thought it would be a good idea...But it wasn't. Inycoddjobz wanted to learn first hand, I am sure we will end up with a Dyno bullet in there or a set of True Duals sometime in the future ahha.
Call Steve Johnson at Induction Solutions. Products and tech support are second to none. If you are going with a fogger. Call before you get your intake or regulators. You can get whatever intake, with everything installed, directly from them. Or if you already got one. You can send it to them. They do port work as well. They have excellent Plate systems as well. Good people, with a great product, at a good price. The whole system will be flowed. Which ever one you choose. Best of Luck. Sounds like you guys are building a bad azz ride. Have fun.
Call Steve Johnson at Induction Solutions. Products and tech support are second to none. If you are going with a fogger. Call before you get your intake or regulators. You can get whatever intake, with everything installed, directly from them. Or if you already got one. You can send it to them. They do port work as well. They have excellent Plate systems as well. Good people, with a great product, at a good price. The whole system will be flowed. Which ever one you choose. Best of Luck. Sounds like you guys are building a bad azz ride. Have fun.
I will certainly be giving this a look. I actually want to discuss with Inycoddjobz possibly sticking with an unopened motor, just some bolt ons and spraying the ***** off this thing hah.
LOL. That's what we said too. Then before we new it. We ended up replacing everything in the motor. But not disappointed at all.
How far did you get with yours before the tear down began?
I am hoping the car will be in the 11's from the crap we just stockpiled. If it's not I am going to light it on fire. For some weight reduction of course.
Anyway, If Inycoddjobz can pilot this thing to an 11.70-11.50 I am hoping to spray it to a 10.0....The car should hopefully be VERY light and cut some good short times with some adjusting.
There are many guys on here making big power, and turning fantastic times on basically stock motors. I'm sure several will chime in, if you have any questions. Great site, with a lot of knowledgeable people.
There are many guys on here making big power, and turning fantastic times on basically stock motors. I'm sure several will chime in, if you have any questions. Great site, with a lot of knowledgeable people.
I actually have been on here since like '06 I believe, but I forgot all my login crap aha. Hopefully some pop in!
We were going to start with (the junk yard motor) Lol. Then after seeing the 6.0 block Summit had for $650.00. That was already bored and clearanced for a stroker crank and H-beams. Well we had to have it. LOL Then the forged rotating assembly. And heads. Well you know. LOL We prolly got a little out of hand. But its bad azz. Lol
As soon as we got our Camaro. We did the same thing you are doing. Got rid of everything down to a shell. Installed a 16 point moly cage. Cut out some unneeded brackets, but nothing structural. Moly everything for chassis. S60, TH400, Drag lites. We got ours down to 3000 no driver now.
Viking Double Adjustable Coil Overs(300lbs)
Rear Shocks-Not sure yet, recommendations?
Torque Arm- Crossmember mounted, short style, recommendations?
Change Rear Gear- 3.73 I am assuming
Wheels/Tires- Car will be on a 275/50
Remove Drive Airbag
Remove Wiper Assembly
Remove HVAC
Remove AC
Remove Front Swaybar
Remove Door Panels
Remove Under Trays
Viking Double Adjustable Coil Overs(300lbs)
Rear Shocks-Not sure yet, recommendations?
Torque Arm- Crossmember mounted, short style, recommendations?
Change Rear Gear- 3.73 I am assuming
Wheels/Tires- Car will be on a 275/50
Remove Drive Airbag
Remove Wiper Assembly
Remove HVAC
Remove AC
Remove Front Swaybar
Remove Door Panels
Remove Under Trays
If you get rid of the rear bump stops and weld in a flat panel in its place. you can fit 10.00-15 x 28 in there with no sweat. Then leave the 456's.
Burkhart Chassis has very nice stuff. Check out there website.
You will want a anti roll bar also.
Single adjustable shocks for the rear is sufficient. Vikings are good.
Not sure if you will need it but, we got 350lb springs on the front, and its just barely enough.
We have a TH400 for the car, so even with a 28" tire the 4.56 is way too steep. The car also has a Wolfe drag bar setup on it. It looks like coils overs and shocks will be ordered this week or so.
09-08-2015, 07:38 PM
Project "WTFail Trans Am" 
