stick shift guys in here
#1
stick shift guys in here
My question is regarding powershifting..I have a 94 Camaro w lq4/ls3 heads, cam, t56, ford 9. Would it be better to go with a steel flywheel or aluminum in regards to powershifting? My previous setup was ls1 cam only making roughly 75 hp/tq less thru a spec stage 3 clutch. I could powershift this combo all day long w the tick master at any rpm. Recently been running a monster stage 3 and I haven't been able to powershift it once. In fact I have to shift 500 rpms before peak power or it acts like it hits a wall. Who can lead me in the right direction w info or links. The t56 is currently being gone thru and faceplated and I want to make sure the clutch/flywheel combo is not going to hold me back.
#3
12 Second Club
iTrader: (2)
When you say "power shifting" ... you mean no use of clutch and stay full throttle?
or "speed shifting" quick stab of clutch stay full throttle (flat foot)
either way less weight will make the hydraulics job easier , I bet the current clutch/flywheel combo weighs more than the previous combo
or "speed shifting" quick stab of clutch stay full throttle (flat foot)
either way less weight will make the hydraulics job easier , I bet the current clutch/flywheel combo weighs more than the previous combo
#4
tick master, changed the fluid..never had a problem w hydraulics. I see what you're saying and I thought it was that too. I had another 02 ss recently w bolt ons and a ls7 clutch..could shift any rpm wot. Theyre supposed to be pretty heavy so not sure if the weight of the combo is the problem either. By powershifting, I mean speedshifting, which is what Ive always called it, but it seems everyone on here used powershifting to mean speedshifting so I was trying to relate
#6
11 Second Club
iTrader: (1)
I have a monster stage 2 steel flywheel, stock OEM slave, adjustable stock master, drill mode hose.
HCI LS1 with a 200 shot nitrous, rebuilt stock t56, 9in 28x10.5x15 e/t drag
lnc2000 set at 6600, no lift shifting.
I did have shifting problems in the past and it was a bad New slave cylinder.
It was fine until I beat the **** out of it. Then it would bleed down and I would miss shifts. I thought it was the oem style clutch and ordered a Monster stage 2, when I went to put it in I noticed the newish slave leaking.
I replaced it and all has been good.
HCI LS1 with a 200 shot nitrous, rebuilt stock t56, 9in 28x10.5x15 e/t drag
lnc2000 set at 6600, no lift shifting.
I did have shifting problems in the past and it was a bad New slave cylinder.
It was fine until I beat the **** out of it. Then it would bleed down and I would miss shifts. I thought it was the oem style clutch and ordered a Monster stage 2, when I went to put it in I noticed the newish slave leaking.
I replaced it and all has been good.
Last edited by mgood613; 10-18-2015 at 09:24 PM.
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#8
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Join Date: Nov 2007
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either monsters 18lb billet steel or their standard fw will be fine. sounds like you have a hyd issue. if the system is bleed properly and still an issue make sure you are not over extending the pp fingers with the tick if its adjusted to far out. ive had about every monster they make and have been able to flat foot them all they are great clutches
#9
Im contemplating going with the 18lb billet steel over the 28lb in it now..in a perfect setup is this the best option for speedshifting? Ideally Ill be shifting at 6700 rpm. I may just go with a new tick master to eliminate that possibility..this one has been in there a long time..thx for the input btw hell of a ride u have there..if I had the money that'd def be my setup
#11
TECH Fanatic
Get the lighter flywheel, that's less weight. Even with the lighter flywheel the assembly still weighs a crap load if I remember right it's 50 + lbs. what is stock around the same and think about how much a twin disc setup weighs. Definitely less.