I'll definitly take a two-step, and a couple of shiftlights too <img src="gr_stretch.gif" border="0">

 

I'd be very interested too, not only because of the fact that it's difficult trying to rev up consistantly to anything over 4000rpm quick enough, and 2 steps are just soo coooool.

<img src="graemlins/gr_cheers.gif" border="0" alt="[cheers]" />

 

You know I want one <img src="gr_stretch.gif" border="0"> <img src="gr_stretch.gif" border="0">

 

SOunds cool Harlan. Do you have to switch it off after leaving the line? I would just be concerned with too many things to do besides driving?

 

[quote]Originally posted by Reckless:
<strong>SOunds cool Harlan. Do you have to switch it off after leaving the line? I would just be concerned with too many things to do besides driving?</strong><hr></blockquote>

You have to use some kind of arming switch to engage it. On Colonels it is hooked into the trans. brake so when you engage the brake you engage the 2 step to work. When you release the button for the brake it goes to WOT. You will need to install a button/switch to engage the 2 step. When you release it you will go to WOT. It is just a simple press the button and release procedure. <img src="gr_stretch.gif" border="0">

 

I didn't think of that! I could hook it up to my T-brake too! <img src="gr_grin.gif" border="0">

 

Well hell

If you got a brake, that's all you gotta do <img src="gr_grin.gif" border="0">

that's what the Colonel did <img src="gr_images/icons/cool.gif" border="0">

<img src="graemlins/camaro.gif" border="0" alt="[Chevrolet]" />

 

Can anyone answer the question in my above post...thanks

-Dave

 

[quote]<strong>Can anyone answer the question in my above post...thanks</strong><hr></blockquote>

My understanding: The spark cutoff is rotated across cylinders so that each cyl does frequently fire. There was a video in an earlier thread that showed the unit in action, and inside the box were LEDs that showed the rotation. IMO, there s/b no chance of cylinder wash.

 

Dave has it right.

Yes, it cuts spark to the cylinders. And yes it still injects fuel.

But there is enough mechanical damping in the motor itself combined with the way the 2 step works, that the disabled cylinders rotate around.

for example, you're never just firing on the same 2 or 3 cylinders. Plus, you're never really on the limiter long enough to matter. Unless you wanna sit there for 30 seconds <img src="gr_eek2.gif" border="0">

Then you'll be more concerned with a nice big backfire. <img src="gr_stretch.gif" border="0">

FWIW, the LED's aren't on the final product <img src="gr_sad.gif" border="0"> They were there for my development, and cost money to you

 

would this be a good way to gut your cats! <img src="gr_grin.gif" border="0">

 

Umm yeah

That's why i have in bold print up at the start of the post.

DON'T USE IT WITH CAT'S ON THE CAR!!!
You'll melt the brick in the converter and plug them up, or shoot them out the back.

Off road use only folks <img src="gr_stretch.gif" border="0">

 

OK....sounds good so far, but here's a few more questions:

1) What about running N20 out of the hole? I'm thinking spraying while the 2-step is engaged would be a bad thing. Will I have to set the window higher than the 2-step?

2) If my converter stalls at 4000, and I set the 2-step for 3200, then isn't the converter still going to flash to 4000 beofre it hits? What is the relationship here?

Thanks Harlan!
Todd

 

I want one!!!

 

Reckless,

Dont know the answer to question one. But as far as converter flash goes. That's the whole idea of the 2-step. You dial it in below your converters stall speed.....engage the two step, put your foot to the floor and you get the full converter flash when you let off the transbrake. It makes launching at a certain RPM very easy and consistent

 

I also take one.

 

Todd

You normally don't spray while on the brake, right??

W/ an N2O and brake setup, you'd be running a relay for the brake. You run the nitrous arm through the Normally Closed contacts on the relay, and the brake through the normally open contacts. When you hit the brake button, the nitrous is disarmed and the brake is on. Let go of the button, and the brake disengages and the nitrous arms.

You run the 2 step off the same button, 2 step and brake are on, nitrous is off. let go, brake off full conveter flash, and nitrous turns on.

simple really <img src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" border="0"> <img src="gr_stretch.gif" border="0">

 

Damnit! I didn't think of that! That's why these Internet forums are so valuable. One guy just can't think of everything! Unless your name is Harlan <img src="gr_grin.gif" border="0">

Thanks broh!
Todd

 

harlan,
you gots mail


steve frank

 

Harlan, on an m6 it would be nice to have a toggle switch on, a clutch disengagement with the toggle being a one shot deal until it was toggled off & on again. Maybe i didn't fully understand how it was supposed to work, but this way would be easier for an old man like me. Thanks, BOB