Finally got a junk block and have finished prototyping the new solid mounts for the LS1. Will be building a jig and setting uo this week how many sets do I need to build on the first run????????

I know Beasst needs a set.

 

What is your "ballpark" guesstimate on pricing?

 

Brian, can you go into detail as to why someone would NEED these mounts?

What performance gain is there in using them when you dont NEED to?

Pros/Cons?

 

yeah what john said <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />

 

The solid mounts will allow the engine to transfer torque quicker to the chassis than stock mounts because the stock mounts have to get rid of the "GIVE" that is built in. One draw back is that the solids transfer vibration to the frame.
The solids are lighter and deletes the need for torque straps etc.

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by MADMAN:
<strong>Finally got a junk block and have finished prototyping the new solid mounts for the LS1. Will be building a jig and setting uo this week how many sets do I need to build on the first run????????

I know Beasst needs a set.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Yep, count me in. Let me know when they are ready.

Thanks
Dave
ARE/FASTECH 432
www.thebeasst.com

 

I may be interested in a pair of these... Any guesses on the price?

BTW, I got the SFC's and torque arm today, Brian. Thanks! I'll give you a call once I get the car running for some pointers on where to start with the TA settings.

 

The mounts should run $150.00 we are estimating right now. We are trying to keep them as cheap as possible.

We just weighed the stock hardware and they weigh 8.5lbs per side. The solids will weigh 3.olbs per side.

 

I have one concern about solid mounts in these cars and thats the vibration transfer. It seems that false knock is a big gremlin for these cars and the tremendous amount of vibration you will get from solid mounts would seem to be a sizeable concern for false knock.

 

bypass it.

Who needs a knock retard anyway. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />

 

Will they work with both the stock and a tubular K member? Id be interested.

 

They will fit both.

 

ttt

 

I'm also concerned about the knock sensors....

If it wasnt for the knock sensors I would have built my own by now.

Ken

 

Does anyone here plan on using only ONE solid motor mount?

Food for thought, it's an old trick for street cars.

 

How safe are solid motor mounts on an aluminum block? I was interested in these 2 years ago. I was advised not to use them on an aluminum block. Could crack the block they said. Keep in mind this was only an opinion from others and they could be full of beans but, I heeded the warning. If they are safe and you could guarantee the block would be safe, I would be interested.
Thanks,
Tom

 

Maybe add one tyedown cable as a precaution???
Just a thought.

Dave
ARE/FASTECH 432
www.thebeasst.com

 

My car is a daily driver. I may be interested in 1 solid mount like ROCK suggested. Kind of like a quick and dirty torque strap substitute.

Sterling.

 

Which side do yall want????

 

Which side? Good question. I am not sure if it matters. My first instinct is to say passenger side.

Sterling.